The other day I put a set of winter tires and rims in the back of my R53. I shut the door but it was too full and would not shut. I removed a couple wheels and put them up front.

All after this the door would still open and shut with the rear button but the wiper would not work. I took the panel off and cleaned all the terminals as there was corrosion. The wipers started working but then the rear button would not work.

I just replaced the rear hatch button assembly and it still will not work. When it is unplugged and I plug it back in I can hear the hatch lock work but the button still does nothing.....

What gives? Do I need to have the BCM reset or something? Beyond furious and frustrated with this car as I have only had it 3 months and it has been nothing but problems.

 

Do you have Multimeter you can set for continuity and check the switch? Then Check the line to the switch. And as far as I know there is no BCM reset.

Best of luck.

Motor on!

 

I am getting 10.56v from one of the lines and both the old switch and the new one act the same way. As soon as there is a connection at the plug the latch activates but neither button works after it is plugged in.

 

So the question is is the second wire a ground or is it the line to switch? (meaning you have power to the switch and the switch acts as a bridge and completes the circuit when you press the switch activating the lock)

Check the second wire for continuity to ground... Man I wish I had a copy of the wiring schematic...

From what you are saying, "As soon as there is a connection at the plug the latch activates ..." does this mean when the switch is connected, the latch opens? I'm starting to think the it might be the release motor... now if I could just find it in the Parts Listing... RPSTL Repair Parts and Spcial Tools List (pronounced RipStaL)

Motor on!

 

Yes, as soon as I plug the switch back into the door wiring you can hear the latch make a noise. I am doing it with the door open so Ill try and close the door and see if it opens when I plug the wires back in.

I know that the rear hatch button on the key doesn't do anything either but it hasn't since I've had the car.

Ill check for continuity to the ground wire as well.

 

Ground has continuity, license plate lights won't turn on either

 

The hatch opens when I unplug and plug back in

 

Here is the wiring diagram.

 

Looking at the wiring...Hmmm?

The Lock, Hatchback PN# 51242754528 and sells for about $54.27.

Unplug the Lock, and see if the Plate Lights work... I looking at the wiring right now... I'll see if there is something that strikes me...

 

The lights do not come on with the latch unplugged

 

So the ground definitely has continuity.

I have 6.95 volts for the license plate lights (lights are not turning on)

There is 11.98 volts at the switch wire

I have no continuity between the switch wire and the lock even with the switch button pushed at the gray/brown wire.

 

I have power to everything and nothing works. This makes me think that there is a ground issue but that is reading that it has continuity.

Anybody have any thoughts or things to look for? Im at a loss and this is driving me crazy not being able to open the door with the rear hatch button.

 

I was looking at mine (I have the plastic panels all removed from my #211) I was thinking that some how when you had the back over loaded and forced the hatch closed it messed something up in the latch mechanism. I'll have time to look more at mine this weekend. I'll let you know what I find.

 

I never got the hatch closed and it worked after that point, it was the wiper motor that stopped working for some reason. It wasn't until after I disconnected and cleaned the connection between the wiring harness and the switch that it stopped working. Since then I have replaced the whole switch assembly and it still only activates the release when I plug the harness and switch back together. This makes no sense at all.... I greatly appreciate your help! I am still wondering if somehow this messed up the computer that senses everything and reset it but I dont know how that could be the case. I am getting an error 0A, 49, 00, 0E No Found! when I do a codes search for the chassis on my C110. Not sure if that helps or not.

 

I was looking at my Software Interface (Bavarian Technic Software), and there is a ECU Chassis Controller reset for the hatch release. I don't know for sure if this is what your problem is, but if it is throwing error codes, it might be.

I fiddled with mine but I was unable to duplicate your issue.

You may want to think about biting the bullet and running it to your MINI dealer and have them check it.

Sorry I couldn't be more help.

Motor on!

 

I appreciate you looking into it. I am going to have to go over and have it looked it. I hate not being able to figure this stuff out myself.

 

DITTO! on not being able to figure out this stuff on your own... I spend a lot of time working with new electronics ...and it has forced me to have the opinion that Magic was now more dependable then Electronics.


Motor on!

 

I wonder if the reset would work? I see that the bravarian tech software and cable is only $180 and that isnt much more than visiting the stealership.

 

OH, Yea... I forgot about that one... I have the PRO version of it was a bit ($$$) pricey.

 

What control unit and which option were you looking at? Trying to see which bav tech software/hardware will work.

 

I was looking at the Central Body Units.

Not to bad talk the Brav Tech Kits, but it lacks some of the interface control options you would expect for the Professional Level Kits. (For example: I can not set DRLs with mine) and a few other options that I really would want but I do not have.
With that said, I think it is a great product for what it does, and the interface is straight forward and works well.

In my case it made sense for me to get it, I do a lot of my own work on my 3 MINIs and my neighbor's 2 MINIs. For the most part it is great for pulling/clearing codes but again it is limited to what it can do.

I was hoping it would have been a little bit more... universal, I would have loved to be able to connect it to my 2009 Dodge Challenger R/T and do things like adjust the electronic Redline.

Motor on!

 

So I found the issue. There is a grey/yellow wire and a grey/brown wire that offer power to the button and lights. General wiring knowledge tells you that the colors should match but they do not. The plug is situated that the gray/yellow mates with the gray/brown. It makes no sense to me but as soon as I switched these wires the door worked again. I guess I should have paid more attention to this when I took the plug apart to clean the terminals.....