Hey everyone, I'm looking for some tips/help as i've been reading a lot of posts about the r56 not starting and possible causes, but unsure of how to proceed in my scenario, here are the details...

2008 Mini Cooper, manual trans, just over 100 000 km
so far on the car for repairs besides regular maintenance brakes, oil and filters(oil and air) the only thing that has been replaced was the water pump, and one time the computer reprogrammed as it went crazy and was opening windows and sunroof on its own and wouldn't allow them to close or stay closed.

the issue started happening this past Thursday, as i was driving i got the temperature warning light in yellow, the light would disappear and re appear again as i was driving, kind of back and forth, after i had parked the car and left it for a while, car was completely cold and when i started it up again the light came on right

away, i thought odd but nothing of it since i knew the car wasn't overheating as i just started it, i did notice the coolant level was below the min marking so i figured that was the cause, this entire time the car drove without any problems or issues and started fine, parked the car thursday night and it sat in the driveway

Friday i go to start it up and go to work, it started up but the rpm were really low and it was running really rough and only for a second or two, then it died and the car kept making a clicking sound after that, as if it was trying to start it, i hit the start button to turn everything off, took out the key, then put key back in and

once again tried to fire it up, did the same thing, fired up, really rough, almost died right away and then the fast clicking sound kept happening

i was unable to start with a boost, or even get it to fire up rough and do the clicking thing again probably since i drained the battery, read a lot that battery could be cause for a lot of starting issues and won't start even with a boost, so over the weekend i picked up a new battery and i also topped up the coolant level

with the new battery in the car the car does almost the same thing, it fires up, runs really rough for a second or two, then dies, but with the new battery i dont get the clicking sound anymore, after it dies it simply starts up agian, runs rough and dies, and just repeats this, runs rough, dies, runs rough, dies, until i push the

start button to stop it from repeating

there has been no warning lights displayed, and i have tried two code readers, 1 was a heavy equipment mechanic friend who brought some advanced code reader, the reader pulled up this info...
0x2f19 and also in the same line 12057
0x2fd7 and 12247
0x2b56 and 11094

couldn't really figure those out since everything i find is in the format P1234.
the same mechanic friend also checked if there was fuel getting in the lines, he unscrewed some small metal cap right behind the engine, and pressed with his key into the nozzle there and fuel sprayed out, so he said there's definitely fuel being supplied, so i figured this ruled out the fuel pump as the problem


today i got a very basic code reader for cars from a different friend and when i hook it up to the mini it comes back with No Codes :/

not sure what to check or do now, before calling for a tow to a garage i was hoping to eliminate simple problems myself, i had also checked any connectors and fuses and just unplugged and replugged everything to make sure something hasn't come loose, made no difference

at this point im thinking maybe spark plugs?
or maybe something computer related?
a little hard to figure out with no feedback from the OBD

sorry for the long winded explanation but i wanted to be detailed, any tips or help would be greatly appreciated on what i can do/check next

Thanks!

* also to add, with the original battery, as soon as i insert the key and hit start button, even if not trying to start the car up but get lights and everything to turn on, the cooling fan would be running for quite a long time, even after i take the key out and close the car the fan keeps running, not sure if it just stops on its own later or if it stops due to the battery draining, with the new battery in the car this doesn't happen, fan might be running as im trying to start the car but as soon as i turn it off and take key out the fan stops, and that seems more normal to me since the car is not warm/hot at all

 

I was about to tell you to check out the battery. doesnt hurt to hook up jumper cables even with a new battery. happens in my moms volvo all the time. check line and check your relays in the relay box. see if the coils on those are ok. check your fuses in under the hood. relay box should be located on the right side of the intake. start ruling these things out. grab a meter and check for continuity on the relay. best of luck.

 

I would start by checking the vaccum system for leaks. The wouldn't really explain the overheating light, but could be responsible for runing rough and poor starting.

 

thanks for the tips, haven't gotten a multimeter yet and tested the electrical stuff.

but i think i may have an idea at this point...

-battery is ruled out, tried new battery and with your suggestion tried starting while boosting, still no go

-checked the spark plugs, they were all firing a spark but 3 out of the 4 weren't really firing as well as the 1st one i checked, kind of arcing weird, so i went ahead and replaced the spark plugs, after replacing, still wouldn't start, same issue

-also due to the temp warning i had tried disconnecting the thermostat sensor ,as i read if you disconnect it the car just takes default values and may help get you moving if you are having issues due to malfunctioning thermostat, car still wouldn't start, same issue, oddly enough still no CEL or any warnings even after trying to start it with no thermostats sensor connected

during this whole time it is trying and sounds really close to starting but still doesn't fire up, so i went back to check the fuel pressure nozzle and pressed it with a screw driver tip, this time only some fuel dribbled out and then nothing, tried even with the key in and ignition button pressed, but nothing. possibly when my friend checked it it just still had enuf fuel pressure built up in the lines to spray out, but now after attempting to start it so many times it seems to have dried up.

my next steps are to check the fuel filter and fuel pump, looking for a good guide on how to do this on the cooper non S, as all fuel pump searches i find relate to the hpfp on the S model

so far i just have the rear seats out

 

ok sounds like youre getting close to finding this out. In my moms volvo the fuel pressure regulator is almost shot so i have to turn the key a few times to prime the lines. sounds like you may have a fuel issue. double check the arcing because you want to fully rule that out. i dont want to tell you to start replacing coils and such.

 

Fuel Pump Relay

 

hello… check with your local MINI dealership about getting your hpfp replaced under the extended warranty offered by corporate as part of their goodwill to MINI owners. this warranty is good for R56's up to 100k miles. i had the exact same symptom at 73K miles. took it to the dealership and they replaced the hpfp for free (had to fight for it though). they did also find a 'residual' traces of engine coolant so i had that replaced to which HAS NOTHING to do with issue so there was my out-of-pocket. with the hpfp failing, it camouflages the codes being thrown once the running temperature is reached meaning the cel comes on intermittently. MINI has to see it to make that call to replace the hpfp meaning the car has to act nuts in front of them… this can only be achieved when the engine is cold after 6-7 hours since it was last driven. i left my car late in the day and MINI checked it out on the following morning. it took some heavy-duty convincing for MINI to agree to my suggestion. wish you luck and hope it gets resolved very soon!

 

The extended warranty only applies to turbocharged N14 engines.

It is up to 120,000 miles not 100,000 miles.

My dealership diagnosed mine as failing after about 45 minutes of checking the car (probably pulling the code history). They did not have to wait 6-7 hours for the car to get cold. They then replaced it on the spot while I waited. No arguing or fighting with corporate or anything.

 

hpfp wouldn't be an issue since this is just the base model and not the S

although fuel pump relay is a possibility

i have the seats and panels off the back to access the fuel pump and fuel filter, before pulling them out i want to get some 12v to the fuel pump and see if it engages and works fine, if it does then most likely its the relay or something else down the line that's not providing the pump with power

found a pretty good guide here...
https://www.gethypoxic.com/reviews-t...-mcs-2006.html

i can use the car battery but have to find some cables or connectors to be able to get it connected to the 12v and ground pin on the pump to test it

 

Another thought I had, Do you have another key? And have you tried using that? Possible the key lost its programming. While extremely rare, it has been known to happen. Just a thought.

 

i posted something but told me a mod had to approve it before it shows...not sure where that post went, maybe cuz i had a link in it to another page with instructions to replace fuel pump relay

im going to try testing the fuel pump before pulling it out, picked up some alligator clips to be able to clip onto the connector pins, going to use power from the battery to test if the pump engages with 12v applied to it

from what i read the blue/white pin 2 cable provides pos+ and the brown cable pin 5 provides grnd-, so those are the 2 i will test with alligator clips and power from the car battery and see if something happens, if the pump engages then clearly the pump is not the problem and possibly the relay :/

 

You had a link in that post Babukb2, and as a new member a post with that type of content will not immediately show up until link has been vetted. Sorry for the delay.

 

hooked up the 12v to the fuel pump and it works fine, fires up and buzzes away, then after pressing on the schaeder valve where the fuel injection is fuel spurts out, so fuel pump eliminated as the problem

when trying to start the car as per normal the fuel pump does not buzz and doesn't seem to activate, so now it seems that fuel pump relay may be the cause or maybe a wiring issue if the relay is fine

found a good write up on how to for the fuel pump relay on a 2006 Mini Cooper S Convertible, but im not sure if everything will be exactly the same on the 2008 Cooper i have

anybody got any ideas/tips or places i can find all the steps and diagrams i need to check the relay?

 

i figured that was the problem, no worries
so far this forum has been of great help, found everything i needed to get as far as i have

 

well that link i posted regarding fuel pump relay replacement isn't of much help

on the passenger foot side fuse box i can see RL1 and it is a relay slot that is empty, so must be different for an R56

having trouble finding diagrams that show where the fuel pump relay is in an R56 and also how to remove all the plastic on the passenger side to be able to fully access the fuse box :/

i've found links but they seem to be dead giving 404 errors or even 1 that works but then wont load the info as says some kind of Java error

 

Babukb2,

Here is a shot from my Bentley manual for the fuel pump relay. Looks like it is the big relay bottom center labeled K96 in the image:



Per the manual, to test the relay, pull it. Then builder a jumper out of 14 ga. wire with a 15 amp fuse in line. Connect it across the terminals labeled A and B in the image below:



Bentley manual says the pump should start up as soon as you make the connection.

If the pump does not start, then next steps would be to look at the fuel pump (which it sounds like you've ruled out), the fuel pump fuse, or wiring to the pump.

hth.

 

awesome of you to post that, thanks!

although now looks like i've got a bigger problem

i tried the 15A fuse with 14AWG and connected A and B, key in and start button pressed, fuel pump still didn't fire up

also replaced the 20A F43 fuse for the electric fuel pump, still nothing

so now it looks like ive got an electrical problem somewhere, not sure if it would be directly on the line going to the fuel pump, or if it could be somewhere else or maybe even a problem with the onboard computer?

at this point i don't even know where to start looking or what to start checking

any suggestions or guides online?

 

Mine too. Although I got a half-power light sitting in their car wash line as the SA walked up. That helped.

Sorry for posting this. Zero help.

 

Were you able to fix your problem?

 

yes and no

i wasn't able to figure it out and fix it, had it towed to Mini, they kept it overnight, said in the morning the car started just fine, and they had no codes and found nothing wrong with the car

so after all that it seemed the problem fixed itself, and even mini had no clue why it happened and couldn't find any indication of a problem

i haven't had it happen again since then, but i always have that worry during winter that it all of a sudden wont start

in the end i replaced the spark plugs, battery, and i think a fuse and a relay

on a separate occasion when i was getting my brakes changed i was talking with the mechanic(not mini dealer) and told him about this, he mentioned that he did see underneath the car that there is some exposed cables or connectors, and possibly that could be the problem, during winter with the cold, snow and wetness it could be affecting that exposed part and causing the problem i mentioned

I never saw it first hand or had it looked into further, just keeping that in the back of my mind for if this problem happens again ill be jacking the car up and looking for that exposed cable/connector

if you are having the same problem, i wish you luck, post any updates or findings

 

Thanks for the update. Im glad that your mini is running now. Mine just cranks and doesnt start. It ran before that. The only change that i did before the problem was i placed the ground of the ignition on the right place bec it wasn't hooked up at all before

 

check the fuel supply and ensure fuel is getting to the engine, then also check your spark plugs and ensure they are all arcing properly

also try starting while getting a boost from another car

these are all things i was advised and tried while troubleshooting my problem

 

There's no spark and fuel. I also boosted it from another car. Im going to try a new battery if that changes anything. My obd reader wont link. I think the dme is dead.

 

sounds like a different issue, i wont be able to help much more and you may want to start a separate thread to hopefully get some help from more experienced people

if no spark and no fuel it sounds like an electrical problem, the plugs and pump are not getting power. whether it is due to the battery, wiring, or the computer, could be any of those

good luck