I was using the Torque App yesterday and I noticed my throttle gauge only goes to 88% - Is something wrong with my car? I get the same results in each gear.

13.6 PSI in the turbo - thats good right??

 

In my r53 it says I've never gone full throttle either. Stock boost for a r56 is 11.6psi I believe... but that will vary with altitude, other mods etc

 

Its been like that on all our MINIs. Its just a number which is an input to the ECU. If it went up to 11, it wouldn't make any difference as long as the ECU knows that full throttle is.

When I use Harry's Lap Timer it shows throttle as 0-100, I suspect it normalises it for you.

 

I noticed the same with my app, throttle doesn't seem to go any higher. Mine does see 16psi when accelerating in third gear.

 

I'll have to try it in third and see if I get 16 psi

 

i think you can re-calibrate the gauges in torque app. theres a setting somewhere, just play with it

 

I just received and install the OBDLink MX BT in my Mini, a few things caught my attention. I noticed that my fuel rail pressure was at 600-1000+ psi under idle and 1000+ on throttle, is that even possible? If not normal or possible how do I get my gauges to report the most accurate readings? I did see 12-13 psi boost even though I was only really pushing it not on full throttle. There are four Catalyst Temperature, Bank 1, Sensor 1, Bank 1, Sensor 2, Bank 2, Sensor 1 and Bank 2, Sensor 2. Which one of the four should I choose to accurately measure catalyst temperatures?

Before I first tested this OBDLink on my Mini I had a gauge clearly labeled "Boost", but when it connected it switched to vacuum pressure, Why? I couldn't find a knowledge base for these Torque App for Android phones.

 

For fuel pressure, yes we have very high fuel pressure for our Direct Injection cars.

Bank 1, sensor 1 is the first o2 sensor (pre-cat).

For the vac/boost...when idling and light load driving, you will be in vacuum and transition to boost under load.

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The throttle mapping on the MINI is extremely non-linear


EGT on dashcommand/scanXL the PID is:

cat temp sensor 1 bank 1

sae.catemp11

 

How about the fuel rail pressure, is it a bogguss reading? I have the correct values for displacement and type of fuel used (E10/Petro), yesterday my boost reading was slightly above 12 psi, how accurate are these boost readings on the Torque Apps?

Thanks for the reply.

 

The boost reading is what the DME sees and reports so it should be accurate. 14.5 was the highest I ever got stock. 20.5 is the highest I have seen on my AP tune.

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I've seen 14.6 PSI boost stock and up to 18.0 with my JB+. Fuel rail pressure of about 700 PSI at idle and 2000 PSI at full throttle is normal.

 

Wow I thought it was just a messed up reading, 2000 psi is crazy high! I wasn't really pushing my MCS that hard when I got that 12.5 psi reading, it recorded the highest reading. I would have pushed it more had I fully warmed up the engine.

 

Guys, on my 2009 Clubman S w/automatic transmission, I can press the throttle pedal down until it feels like it bottoms out, however if I push it even harder there is an extra maybe inch or so which forces the transmission to downshift as long as the revs aren't too high. I wonder if the manual transmission cars have a similar setup on the throttle pedal... So maybe you need to push the throttle pedal harder?

 

I think it depends on the throttle mapping, it seems as if I'm reaching full throttle before I actually push the pedal all the way down more so in "Sport Mode". On another note I noticed that my EGT's run pretty cool (1035) in comparison to others mentioned EGT's and about 900 at a traffic light. The only time mine goes to 1500 is when I'm really pushing things but it doesn't stay there for very long, perhaps because I'm not tuned yet.

 

That's the transmission kick down, so only automatics have it.

 

I have a favor to ask, I want to compare my stock AFM ratio to others whether or not you're tuned? Also what is expected for a stock tune for AFM ratio? I'm at 14.4 "measured" at normal operating temperature.

 

AFR is going to vary based on many factors such as rpm, throttle position, etc.

Normal highway cruise should be 14.7 where as wide open throttle, high rpm in 4th gear should be more around 12.0.

 

I'm a little confused, I thought the higher then number to more fuel is being used, I would expect highway cruise to have a lower number.

 

The lower the number, the more fuel (rich).

Afr is the ratio of # of parts air to # of parts fuel.

12:1 is 12 moles of air to 1 mole of fuel. This is more fuel than 14:1 which is 14 parts air to 1 part fuel.

You are thinking in terms of fuel to air ratio which would be the inverse.

As Cerenkov noted, the DME adjusts for a complete burn (near 14.7) when idling and at very light load. Under load, the mixture is richened in order to use the excess fuel to cool the cylinder and slow down the burn. Basically you waste fuel to prevent high temps, preignition, and knock.

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My engine used to knock even in cold temperatures, after few cans of BG 44K and (pistons cleaner) walnut blast procedure it only knocks under moderate to high load only when the temperatures are 90+ with very low humidity. Lately the humid weather has staved off knocking even at 90+ degrees outside, as long as it's not a dry heat.

This would indicate that my AFR is a bit too lean causing more heat which causes my engine to knock, but only in high temperatures in low humidity. I will probably clean my #1 oxygen sensor and see if that helps, seems like a tune could possibly rid myself of that lean condition. I'll pay close attention to the AFR when it gets hot and dry soon and see where my AFR are.

I guess I want to see a 13:1 reading on my Torque App in high dry heat correct?

 

Just going through this post and wondering what brand fuel you're using?