Hey Everyone.. I traded my 95 YJ (jeep wrangler)with a private owner for a 2005 Mini Cooper Convertible 5 Speed (not and S). It has 170K and appears to run well. I do have some issues with it. Yesterday, the test drive went well and had no issues. When I drove the car last night and then turned the key off, the engine stayed running. I was able to stall it and sometimes if I coast and then shut the key off the engine will shut off. It did the same thing this morning. Once I stall the car, everything is off. I did some research and found where one person said it was a short in the reverse switch. Any ideas? Also, before I started having this issue, the cruise control worked. Now, when I press the cruise on button, the cruise light flashes two or three times. Last but not least, I have an airbag light on. This was on when I looked at the car. The bag light and passenger side bag off light is illuminated. I have a lot to learn and am excited about this car. It is fun as crap to drive. I thought the jeep was fun...this can go 70MPH+ and is still fun. At 60MPH in the jeep, I was holding on for my life it was a windy day.

 

So many seemingly unrelated issues makes me wonder if the car has a water or a wiring issue...
Me...I might try to return it.
Sounds like the ignition switch might be bad...
Other issues could be due to water...the BCM (body control module) is on the passenger side wall, by the passanger's feet behind the carpet...I would feel for wetness.

 

I will check for dampness. The car is in overall good shape; just needs a through cleaning. Let me clarify, when I said I traded...I meant I traded with a private individual. Of course, they knew nothing of this issue. I am not too worried about it. I am fairly mechanically inclined. The only European car I have ever owned was a couple volvos.

 

The airbag light on a 2005+ (jan + production 2005) gen1 cars were the first car is USUALLY the weight sensor in the passenger seat...about a $1500 fix....if the dealer does it.for about $800 the entire lower passenger cushion can be swapped out, and the light reset if you can get the airbag reset tool....
Some mini's are wonderful and reliable....some are money pits...luck as does how the prior+current owners drive the car plays a part.
Good luck! Keep posted what us up...lots of collective experiences here to save you $$.

 

Ouch!!! Well, that sucks. Thanks for the info. When I saw the light on I figured it was $1K to fix. I wasn't sure if it was like my S80 and had an Airbag Maint light.

On another note, I disconnected the battery for 45 mins and reconnected and now the car shuts off like it should. The positive battery cable was loose. I am not sure if this is an indication of the prior owner disconnecting and reconnecting because this will temporarily fix the problem(the owner could very well not have known too). I haven't checked the cruise control...I will let you guys know.

 

Good to hear you might have solved it!!!
One tip...
Sometimes when there is evidence of a person disconnecting the battery, they have done it cause the electronics in the PS pump are wonky, and the pump does not ALWAYS turn off...it is electric...
And depending on the production date (located by the Vin sticker on the driver side door) you might have a 13 year, 150,000 mile extended warrenty....the first few months of 2005 production were the last cars given this warrenty.....the pump is electricity operated....
A weak battery or bad ground can cause issues....I'd check the battery anyway...these cars are mostly a big computer....

 

I remember reading about PS failures. My car was built 12.07.2005. Thanks for the tip. Plus, I have 170K miles anyways. Either way, it will be a fun car. I only had $3K tied up in my jeep. I just found a control arm bushing worn out. JOY! Are the repair guides from Pelican Parts pretty accurate? It seems like they have a lot of guides on their site.

 

Have never heard any complaints...
Think waymotorworks sells them prepressed...that is the biggest issue...unless you have a press and a torch to get the old ones out/new in. Send the old arms back..and you get the core. I suggest the powerflex 110%....should be lifetime, or pretty close to it...OEMS fail evey few years...about 40,000-80,000 depending on roads...

Look at the upper engine mount...it is an oil filled balloon... They tear and leak...about $90 to replace...longterm tranny/cluch issues if it is bad for many months...again about a 40,000 mile part... Rubber stuff on a mini...drives me nuts...Asian cars go 200,000+ with rubber parts...euro about 40,000....I hope they figure it out someday...
Based on production date, think you are outside of the warrenty....
But nappa sells lifetime rebuilds, rockauto has (I think) 2 year units cheaper...

 

Thanks for pointing out those pre-assembled control arms....that seems to be a big help and worth the few extra dollars.
What did you mean by napa sold lifetime ones and rock auto 2 years? Are you talking about the bushings themselves?
The clutch feels good and does not seem to have any issues. I have been reading where the throw out bearing fails suddenly; without warning.

 

I was going to suggest that maybe your battery was failing. Often when there are multiple electronic problems it can be traced to a bad battery. Hopefully you solved it by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting.

 

A few of us have just learned to ignore the airbag lights and motor on.
I had to rent a jeep somethingorother while mine was in the shop overnight and I know of what you speak in the extreme poor handling of those boxes. Worst part of it for the day was getting a jeep wave from someone.

Be very fastidious over the care of the canvas. Two products are most recommended, 303 or Ragg Topp both available at most auto supply or on line. Search the internet for a wind deflector if it didn't come with one. You won't believe what a difference it makes. There was one offered on the forum just a couple weeks ago. Also, two things to do regularly, change the oil at least at 5K intervals and rotate the tires as often but most importantly, get the top down and motor.

 

Sorry...was talking about the "what if" if the PS pump failed on a nonwarrenty production date car....the Napa vs rock auto info....
Stock clutch seems to be best for most, but issue is the clutch is a plastic throwout bearing with a metal cap...so they sometimes fail.....other issue is the pre-2005 cooper non s "midlands" trannt fail if the driver pushes them hard....but the 2005+ "refresh" cars has a different tranny from the same maker as the s, so no worries there, but will point it out cause the tranny is significantly more reliable, but some auto parts stores do not have the fact the newer coopers had a different tranny...and list the same CV joint, etc for them....hey have a different spline count if you ever need to change them....so if the odd crap like the electrical stuff goes away and the right fuel is used (trust me, go midgrade, avoid a burnt valve... It is cheaper than trying to get away with 87 like some try), the base cooper is a great car...good handling and decent mpg...and the 2005+ is the best if them....so sounds like you did good!!

 

I can ignore the airbag light...no issue. The brake pad maint light is on and I will soon have that disabled. My wheels allow me to have full view of my pads so I don't need the wear sensors. Jeeps are cool if you want to trail ride or such.
You do tend to get waved at (and associated with) the worst of the Jeep crowd and you tend to cringe.

I will take care of the top. Fortunately, it appears to be in really good shape. The rubber seal along the back needs to be replaced (the one that meets the center brake light one each side)

I haven't performed any maintenance on it yet but have ordered a lot of goodies that are coming for it. I am amazed by all of the support articles online for Minis'. It seems like the Jeep supports articles commonly lead to dead ends where no one posts their fixes.

I am going to buy all new tires eventually for the cooper. After jacking the car up (by the way...talk about a nifty little jack. When I removed it from the trunk, and read how it worked...and then used it...way cool but will buy a low profile jack) and removing the front tires, I see that it will be worth it to go ahead and replaced the ball joints while I am replacing the control arm bushings. Way Motor Works I found out is just a 2 1/2 hour drive from me and it seems like they have everything I need and they appear inexpensive too.

 

Okay....I understand now. I am not one to push a car to it's limits....only sometimes. I will say that this engine is not happy unless you are keeping the revvs above 2k RPM....it loves to go go go. I will keep that in mind about the CV joints should I ever need to replace one. Is the inner joint a plunging joint or CV as well?

 

one tip...a pain...but if you drive up on a 2x6 of scrap lumber to park the car when doing work...you can use a normal jack if the car is not lowered..saving some $$..
just put the 2x6 back under the car when lowering so you can get the jack out!
+1 WaymotorWorks is great...actually dropped in an a trip...they know their crap!!

 

I don't have a load tester but I will make sure I get the battery charged up and load tested somewhere. I do have some issues still with turning the car...every once in awhile. Fortunately, I haven't had any issues with a running PS pump or fan while it is sitting.

 

Sweet. I am going to a cirque du soleil show in Atlanta next Tuesday and will visit them.

Thanks for the tip about the jack...that helps because I was having that issue yesterday.

 

bet the U-joint on the steering wheel shaft is failing...can make it feel "notchy" sometimes
get some lube on it.

 

Well, it seems to me that after I purchased the $24.99 fluid and topped off the resovoir, my PS pump died a day later. I know it is probably coincidental. I heard some whining and it was gone. I figured I was done for. I checked the fuses anyways but was prepared to replace the pump and fan. Well, tonight I drove it up to the mall and parked the car. An hour later I came out and was backing the car up and I had power steering! It was making some whining noises but worked. I drove for about 15 mins, turned the car off. I waited a minute and turned it back on...no power steering. Is this typical to be intermittent?

 

Its will turn on and off right before mine failed, then it want all the way and never came back on. You might also have a disconnection at the post terminal plug, I would unclip it and reclip it in , heck the tab clip might have broke. #12 connection



Dependent on the year , early 2005 convertible were covered under the recall for the PS and Fan. If you are later, then you might not be covered, here are the parts. Check the link for info on coverage.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-problems.html




Thanks

 

Thanks, I will check that. I have not driven the car in a couple of days; I went to Atlanta. While I was there, I picked up some goodies front end goodies (power flex bushings and ball joints). I will try and live with the power steering for another month and I will purchase a new pump and fan if the plug is secured properly.

On another note, I am very impressed by everyone here. You guys go above and beyond help. I just want you to know I really appreciate it and I hate to say but, you guys are so much better and detailed compared to the necks I am used to dealing with on the Jeep forums.

 

Geez....this car is so much fun to drive...especially if the power steering is working. Today it worked flawlessly. I got home and turned the ignition off and the power steering stayed running. So it seems that I may not be lucky that it is that connection. From what I've read, the pump electronics have failed. Such is life.

 

You need a new pump. If you're not covered under warranty BBAReman dot com is a cheap and reliable alternative. That's who I used and it's been fine so far. I did the job back in May.

 

Yo are welcome.

 

MINI has an extended warranty on the PS pumps to something like 150Kmiles.....it also covers the harness and other related parts/fluids.

If your pump is staying on while engine off it could be a fire hazard issue. Do not park it in your garage until it is fixed.

Call your MINI Service advisor and see if your MINI is under this extended warranty!