It cranks strong. I don't know for certain if it's getting fuel/spark. Strange, it is. Will not start when cold, cranks strong, but will start with jump. Will start when warmer outside, no jump needed.

 

Well....Another update. Today went out to clean throttle body. Tried to start first, no luck. Pulled and cleaned throttle body. Put everything back together. Started, no problem. SES light came on right away. Had P1692, P0222 twice, and P0123 twice. Started a couple times in the next couple hours, no problem. Got ready to leave for work, a few hours later, no start.

 

P1692 Electronic Throttle Control Monitor Level 2/3 Motorized Throttle Control and Fuel Injection Switch Off 'A'
P0222 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch 'B' Circuit Low
P0123 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch 'A' Circuit High

It's common to see P0222 and P0123 together. Look at post #6 HERE first. If it doesn't work I found this HERE with an answer at the last post, but not sure it'll be your issue. It has some good information though. 2 others below as well. It may be time to visit an indy shop for the no start and P1692 if you can't find anything. One more thread for it HERE, which has some good info though.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...123-p1229.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...222-p0123.html

 

I would start with a bad throttle body or the pedal throttle sensor is bad. I had the pedal sensor go bad and that was the next thing i replaced after ruling out the throttle body. Most of the times a sticky throttle body will cause that also.

Do you have an auto or manual. Do you have access to another throttle pedal used to swap in and check.

 

I tried most everything here. Tried to start before doing anything, no start. Tried again after each fix, no start. Going to figure out if there is a better tutorial to test the pedal assembly. I'm pretty sure its not the throttle body, I watched it doing its thing before and after I cleaned it.


I don't have one to swap in...What's your return policy like?...lol

 

If it does not work you can return it.

 

Awesome...Let me do some testing to have a little more confident that it 'may' fix the problem. Thanks!

 

After checking some more and not finding any other issues, I decided it was the pedal assembly. Once funds were together, I ordered one. It came and I got it installed Sat morning after work. Started great the last two days (check engine light cleared itself). This morning the temps dropped a bit (phone says 48* right now). I went to start, and no go. There is a clicking sound from dash around speedo area (no needles on speedo clicking like before).

Going out to check for codes...

Think it may be time to sell this thing...

 

Since you aren't sure if it's getting fuel or spark, before throwing more parts at this fix, you might want to dive into that area or find a local indy shop that can tell you for sure what the issue is.

 

Do you have a good code reader, some stored codes on others will not show up ?

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...tic-tools.html

 

 

Yea, you most likely can see stored codes with that. I can see your throttle codes, you replaced the throttle pedal, next I would unplug and plug back in the throttle body plug. Throttle body plugs are know to wiggle loose. Then try to restart it, I have only seen a few throttle bodies go bad on the gen1 MINIs. But it can happen.

 

It's possible...But, if it's not getting spark/fuel, something has got to be telling it not to.

I think mine is pretty good. See pics in previous post.

What is it about being cold and this happens? I would think battery is the biggest thing that temps would mess with. I've replaced the battery, and then had it checked (think autozone does a load test type check), all good.

 

I will try it. When I pulled the throttle body to clean it, it looked REALLY good. Like, maybe it had been replaced not long ago. Everything I touch on the car is super clean. Doubt it has ever left the valley or driven in rain before I got it.

 

Ok, let me know if the pins are tight on the contacts . Do the wiggle thing, clear the codes and test again. With throw position sensors errors could be the throttle itself.

 

Not sure how to tell if the pins are tight. It feels snug due to the seal on the connector, but can't tell about the pins. But I cleared codes, unplugged the throttle body connector, re-seated it, and I immediately get the P1692 code once I try to start again.


?...Throttle body?

 

OK, well we are down to one code.

P1692, i would pull the cover off / intercooler off to get to the injectors. There is a wire harness to each injector and then that main harness. Check the harness and unplug and replug the wires. All I can think is that one of the wires is damaged / connection loose or you have bad injector , which the ecu and cutting the engine for some reason.

 

Damn...That will have to wait till this weekend. I'll check it out and report back.

 

Find the fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail and test for fuel pressure. I'm thinking it might be something related to fueling as your MINI requires more fuel to start when it's colder. Believe it should read 50 PSI while attempting to start. You'll want to test this when it wont start, so probably when it's cold out as that's when it gives you issues. Just an option, not sure if this is your issue though.

 

I'll get a pressure gauge and test. Thx!

 

Ok, thanks

 

I said to heck with it, and ordered a throttle body. Installed is this morning. Pulled battery cables, touched them together to 'reset' whatever...No start. Cleared code, it immediately came back. I'm getting INPA/cable and looking deeper into what is shutting things down...If I can't figure out what is happening, then it's off to shop to diagnose...or for sale.

I think I'm pretty decent fudging around under the hood, but I can't for the life of me find the port.

 

I would follow those wires and see it there is a break in them, as this does not make sense, with those two replaced, there has to be an issue with the line. Let me know what the shop finds.

 

Thanks for your reply soo long ago.

Is there a wiring diagram somewhere so I can trace it easier?

Got INPA/EDIABAS/NCS Expert etc software and cable from BCables off ebay.



Using INPA (Limited knowledge) Found these codes.





I think the very bottom one is because I accidentally touched cables together as I was trying to jump car thinking battery was just low enough to not let it start. Had to relearn (maybe it was reset) seed for immobilizer, to clear that one.

Still getting the other three. I clear the error memory, and the first two stay for a while, and the low voltage one goes away. Why would it say 'System Voltage Low 1.81v'? I read somewhere that some peeps asked about programming new battery in. Do I need to do that? I replaced my battery just after all this started, thinking it may have been the problem.

Back to my limited knowledge of INPA...I see tons of talk about all the software to program thing for the cars, but not much turns up in searches about troubleshooting/testing errors and problems. Is there somewhere I can look to test the errors I'm getting? Why is it shutting off the fuel injection for soo long once I've cleared the code that supposedly caused the problem (if it's the problem). If it's not the initial problem, what is?

Thanks all for reading/helping!

 

Also...What is the thing in the battery compartment? Does it shut down battery if there is a draw on it after key is shut off? Noticed while trying to jump car the other day, and I hooked the cables it pulled down hard on the car I borrowed to jump from. Key was off, nothing was on. Battery was not low, just ruling it being close to not starting it itself out. Maybe I have a short somewhere?