Man this sucks. Last night we were changing out my injectors and belt because this morning I was supposed to drive 9 hours to rochester for the RMW tune. Well when we reassembled everything the underside of one of the IC boots got a little stuck and there was a slight boost leak. While test driving the car around the block, the boot came off more and the car went into limp mode. Drove it back to the shop and fixed the boot. Now the car stalls immediately on startup. no wild erratic revving or sputtering like a boost leak, just starts and stalls. If you give it gas it runs just fine, but will not stay running.

Just by experimenting we found that by unplugging the throttle body the car will hold an idle, albeit a bit rough.

It's throwing two codes: P0123 and P0222, throttle/throttle pedal sensors. Am I correct in assuming that the pedal position sensor is faulty or is there something else at play here?

 

I had this same problem after I had my air box out. I didn't get the wire harness plugged back in properly (attached to air box). Once I re-seated the harness I was able to reset the code.

 

Try resetting the ECU.

this has been posted around NAM for awhile.

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How to Reset the ECU:

1. With the key in the ignition, but in the off position, press and hold down the odometer reset button with one hand, while holding the button down, switch the key in the ignition to position 1 (first click) with the other hand. The screen will have a number and the word “tESt”. Scroll through the numbers by pressing the odometer rest button, through to 19 and wait a moment. (Note: the number order is: 1,2,10,19) The message will say 19 "L i-off", flash to "L i-on", and back to "L i-off" again. When "log i-off" appears, press the odometer rest button again. You are now in the system. Scroll through to 21. tESt and wait a moment. 21.0 rESEt will come up. Press the button once.
2. Your gauges will now make some sounds and movements.
3. Once the lights come back on start your car. You have now reset your ECU and your MINI is now ready to relearn the new mods and your driving style.
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Hey agoodsign,
I know I am responding a little late for you but if you still haven't fixed your problem my this could help. I did the same thing as you once, I had a boost leak through my intercooler boot, but my car didn't really go into limp mode, it just wasn't as quick, when I readjusted my boot the car would just stall out and wouldn't run at idle like yours, but my fix was that I had to clean out my PCV valve because it became all clogged up, once i cleaned it up my car ran great!!

 

I don't think this is correct....This does reset the IKE, but I don't think that it has any effect on the DME. We used to do this when you couldn't communicate with any control unit past the IKE(it was the gateway that other module communicated through to the Dbus. I will check it in a little while by setting a code on the DME and trying to reset it by performing a cluster reset and post back.

 

Atually, I meant to post an update, we finally fixed the problem. There are apparently two potentiometers in the TPS system that need to be in sync with each other, on reads somthing like 1-7 volts and the other 7-1 volts in reverse (I can;t remember the exact voltage), they need to be balanced, it's a fail-safe system to make sure the ECU knows where the throttle position is. Somehow they got out of sync in the car and we just had to find a simple reset procedure for it... Turn the key to the 1 position, hold the gas pedal down wide open for 25 seconds, let off completely for 10 seconds, and start the car and let it run for a while, it'll idle rough at first but eventually it evened out.

 

Nice trick.....thanks for the update.

 

Did this stay true over a long period of time? I was having the same issue with my Mini and followed the listed procedure. Seems like it helped, but the SES light and limp mode were coming and going before this procedure. I just dont want them to come back.

 

Responded to late.... but I have few questions, first the "reseting" the ECU will the tune go back to stock? hope not...

Ok for the big question but first the story. R56 2009 was on stock internals and with all the supporting bolt ons for the tune, the car ran GREAT she was a demon, and one day she decides to drop the piston "issue with the N14" threw oil EVERYWHERE even inside the throttle body well anyway had high performance rods, mahle pistons put in with JCW compression, ported and polished head, port match exhaust manifold. Now the car with everything the same but except for the port job, piston, rod blah blah..... now the question.

The car now stutters a bit does not hit full boost like before 20psi now only 16psi at times with boost cut and has power but not like before and has thrown P115D. Can the trottle body be damaged??? cause I found the MAF was only reading on idle 6 to 8 KG/H now with new MAF I get 14KG/H on idle. also can the TMAP and the MAP damaged with the T.B due to oil build up?