R50/53 Mini swerves left when and right at speeds over 60
#1
Mini swerves left when and right at speeds over 60
Hi! I have a 2005 r53 Cooper S that I that I bought a few weeks ago with 175k (I know!)
So far Ive replaced:
Both tie rods, both rear bushings, both end bushings, boot axle CV, power steering high pressure line, and got it aligned.
The issue only happened 200 miles after getting the car aligned, it was very sudden change while doing 70 in a highway, and doing all the changes, I thought it would be a power steering slow leak in the high pressure line but chainging this didnt help.
When I'm doing 60+mph and I lift the accelerator, the car swerves right, when I put the power down it straightenes out by swerving left.
What do you think it could be? Powersteering issue? axle?
Any help much appreciated
So far Ive replaced:
Both tie rods, both rear bushings, both end bushings, boot axle CV, power steering high pressure line, and got it aligned.
The issue only happened 200 miles after getting the car aligned, it was very sudden change while doing 70 in a highway, and doing all the changes, I thought it would be a power steering slow leak in the high pressure line but chainging this didnt help.
When I'm doing 60+mph and I lift the accelerator, the car swerves right, when I put the power down it straightenes out by swerving left.
What do you think it could be? Powersteering issue? axle?
Any help much appreciated
#2
Start with the easy, check tire pressure, make sure all tires are same size (could have had different sizes in rear that got mixed up when doing the work). Could be some kind of binding issue so check strut mounts and struts. Check sway end links. If these check out start thinking if the cv axles went back on correctly and go from there.
#4
LCAB is what I think , but you replaced these already ?
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#5
I'm thinking it's your tires that might be the issue. Could be tire pull so maybe try swapping the front tires across and see if the pull changes direction.
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#6
I changed the rear bushings to the powerflex ones so they are brand new.
I'm going to buy new tires and will report back!
Also; The swerve is more of a 'jerk', its quite drastic sometimes and can be dangerous if I'm not paying attention.
Thanks everyone for your comments!
I'm going to buy new tires and will report back!
Also; The swerve is more of a 'jerk', its quite drastic sometimes and can be dangerous if I'm not paying attention.
Thanks everyone for your comments!
Last edited by MinEff; 12-30-2015 at 11:40 AM.
#7
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#8
New tires and wheel didnt change anything, so I'm at the mini dealership, $129 to check whats wrong..
I'll report back
Edit: GOOD NEWS! it was the 2 bolts that connect the Ball joint to the arm, turns out I didn't tighten it hard enough and came loose, I will invest in a better torque wrench!
HAPPY NEW YEAR TO EVERYONE! Thanks for all the help
I'll report back
Edit: GOOD NEWS! it was the 2 bolts that connect the Ball joint to the arm, turns out I didn't tighten it hard enough and came loose, I will invest in a better torque wrench!
HAPPY NEW YEAR TO EVERYONE! Thanks for all the help
Last edited by MinEff; 12-31-2015 at 10:37 AM.
#9
So its all fixed! And runs great!
BUT the dealer found an issue, tbe front sway bar bushings are also RIP, it feels like its never ending hahah
Planning on replacing then with this https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2651766/
Does anyone have a guide on how to so this? Is it just taking off the 2 bolts out?
Thanks!
BUT the dealer found an issue, tbe front sway bar bushings are also RIP, it feels like its never ending hahah
Planning on replacing then with this https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2651766/
Does anyone have a guide on how to so this? Is it just taking off the 2 bolts out?
Thanks!
#10
Check out this NAM thread HERE for some information. You may need to lower your subframe a little to gain access to these bolts below (green arrows). Powerflex bushings are a great upgrade. I will say when doing the power steering rack bushings upgrade as well, it really helped tighten up my steering. We have them here as well. Good luck and glad you got your issue resolved.
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#11
So its all fixed! And runs great!
BUT the dealer found an issue, tbe front sway bar bushings are also RIP, it feels like its never ending hahah
Planning on replacing then with this https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2651766/
Does anyone have a guide on how to so this? Is it just taking off the 2 bolts out?
Thanks!
BUT the dealer found an issue, tbe front sway bar bushings are also RIP, it feels like its never ending hahah
Planning on replacing then with this https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2651766/
Does anyone have a guide on how to so this? Is it just taking off the 2 bolts out?
Thanks!
Thanks for the update , you can try to snake out the sway bar with the subframe dropped.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ll-how-to.html
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#12
Good to know it's resolved. Happy New year.
#13
#18
Some MINI dealerships have coupons online and in emails/ mailer , which make it around 100.00 same price as other shops. Plus they have the tools and the specific weights for the seat dependent on model. Always check first if a shop can align them, some places don't have the tools and the alignment specs in the machine program.
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#19
You're welcome. You will need to gain access to those bolts. Therefore, you'll need to lower it at least an inch or so to remove the bolts. In the thread I linked it gave some information about lowering it slightly rather than dropping it completely. As you tackle this job it may be a good idea to write down the steps and take some pictures. Post them up in a thread here as there isn't much info out there for the front bushings and this may be helpful for someone else in the future. Let me know if you run into any problems or have any questions.
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#20
Some MINI dealerships have coupons online and in emails/ mailer , which make it around 100.00 same price as other shops. Plus they have the tools and the specific weights for the seat dependent on model. Always check first if a shop can align them, some places don't have the tools and the alignment specs in the machine program.
#21
Welcome.
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#22
#23
Most of the time it's a toe and go scenario.
They will not properly load vehicle.
Wont Set camber if available.
And the worst part is the maintenance of the hunter machines is regulated by the store manager.
That means that if the manager if the store doesn't want to pay for the hunter technician to calibrate the machine, it won't get done.
Bad news, because those alignment racks see hell from technicians who don't pay attention on a daily basis.
JUST BECAUSE ITS GREEN DOESNT MEAN ITS RIGHT.
They can (and will) bump wheel sensors to get it 'in to specs'.
Take it to a shop that specializes in alignments and don't think twice.