Electrical The Foot Well Module: functions, problems, solutions?
#51
09-17-2015, 08:11 PM
#52
09-20-2015, 07:20 PM
sorry for your problem. It could be the FRM but I think the car needs to be checked to find the real problem (ie. windows/capo electrical issue).
Maybe your FRM is OK and the issue is not related with it.
#53
10-09-2015, 01:10 PM
3rd Gear
Good read on this thread. I lost brake lights but still have tail lights....
I was playing with BMWhat App before I noticed no lights. I had coded pulsing brake lights as an option, but they didn't work. Would this be a case of, as Chernobyl stated, a shut down due to a short circuit? How can I test the FRM without NCSExpert? Can a shop simply reset the module?
"There are four fuses that supply the FRM (see below). There are none in the FRM itself. In the MINI R56, individual devices (brake lights, headlamps, etc.) are not fused individually. Instead the FRM itself provides circuit protection (it automatically detects short-circuits and then disables individual outputs)."
I was playing with BMWhat App before I noticed no lights. I had coded pulsing brake lights as an option, but they didn't work. Would this be a case of, as Chernobyl stated, a shut down due to a short circuit? How can I test the FRM without NCSExpert? Can a shop simply reset the module?
"There are four fuses that supply the FRM (see below). There are none in the FRM itself. In the MINI R56, individual devices (brake lights, headlamps, etc.) are not fused individually. Instead the FRM itself provides circuit protection (it automatically detects short-circuits and then disables individual outputs)."
#54
10-20-2015, 11:21 AM
FRM Water Damage from Sunroof Ducts
I brought my MINI to a dealer after experiencing some startling electronic issues. They told me that the FRM was corroded from water damage which was seeping in through the blocked drains from the sunroof ducts. The total bill: $1,410.
I had not experienced any signs of water or smell of mildew at anytime, so this surprised me. I asked what could prevent these ducts from being plugged. They responded "regular maintenance." I went and looked through my owner's manual and have found no mention of the need to clean these ducts out with any regularity.
"Regular" maintenance that isn't mentioned in the owners manual? "Regular" maintenance never performed by the dealer? I got MINIusa on the phone and they told me they'll be in contact with the dealer. No guarantees, but hopefully we sort something out.
I had not experienced any signs of water or smell of mildew at anytime, so this surprised me. I asked what could prevent these ducts from being plugged. They responded "regular maintenance." I went and looked through my owner's manual and have found no mention of the need to clean these ducts out with any regularity.
"Regular" maintenance that isn't mentioned in the owners manual? "Regular" maintenance never performed by the dealer? I got MINIusa on the phone and they told me they'll be in contact with the dealer. No guarantees, but hopefully we sort something out.
#55
10-20-2015, 11:43 AM
I found this: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4054919
It says that water can come in from the sunroof and some sort of disconnected (?) drain. I'm trying to get more details.
..Roger
It says that water can come in from the sunroof and some sort of disconnected (?) drain. I'm trying to get more details.
..Roger
Did you find out anything more regarding this? The dealership is telling me that this is my issue...
#56
10-31-2015, 03:36 PM
Question about footwell module
Hi folks
Looks like I am having a similar problem. My 2009 Mini Clubman was dead when I went to drive it Saturday morning. Not totally dead (lights still work, doors unlock, etc. but not enough juice to turn the engine over.) Anyway, I put my charger on it for the day and was able to start it without any problem on Sunday. However, I got a trouble light (car on a lift) and the electrical system is all wonky. Things that I have identified...
Windows don't work, Turn signals don't work (nor hazards), and the little light inside the hazards light switch (button on the top of the dash) is always illuminated despite the actual hazards not working. (I figure this could account for the battery being drained, but am not sure.)
So after reading this post, I have a few questions...
1. Other than no turn signals, etc. does the FRM impact the operation of the car itself. If I drive it to the store before I get it fixed, should I be concerned about being stranded?
2. The battery is the original so it is going on 6 years. Is it possible that a bad battery is causing this issue?
I am planning to look at the connections tonight to see if anything jumps out at me...
Thanks
Dan
Looks like I am having a similar problem. My 2009 Mini Clubman was dead when I went to drive it Saturday morning. Not totally dead (lights still work, doors unlock, etc. but not enough juice to turn the engine over.) Anyway, I put my charger on it for the day and was able to start it without any problem on Sunday. However, I got a trouble light (car on a lift) and the electrical system is all wonky. Things that I have identified...
Windows don't work, Turn signals don't work (nor hazards), and the little light inside the hazards light switch (button on the top of the dash) is always illuminated despite the actual hazards not working. (I figure this could account for the battery being drained, but am not sure.)
So after reading this post, I have a few questions...
1. Other than no turn signals, etc. does the FRM impact the operation of the car itself. If I drive it to the store before I get it fixed, should I be concerned about being stranded?
2. The battery is the original so it is going on 6 years. Is it possible that a bad battery is causing this issue?
I am planning to look at the connections tonight to see if anything jumps out at me...
Thanks
Dan
Hi Dan,
My car (2010 mini hardtop) is having very similar issues and I have no idea how to solve it. It started with the break lights staying on, resulting in a dead battery. I ended up getting a new battery to save the trouble. As soon as it was installed, the blinkers stopped working, the dash lights went out, the Windows won't go down, etc. Did you ever find a solution? I've already had to replace the engine of my 5-year old car. So I'm getting pretty fed up with this car. :-/ Any info would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks,
Michelle
#57
10-31-2015, 04:53 PM
3rd Gear
Hi Michelle,
Sorry to hear of your bad luck. My guess would be your battery isn't a direct match for your car. There is a " programming" that some Minis need when batteries are replaced. I didn't need to go mine, but some do need it. You can do it yourself with CarlyBmw app, it's $50 but less than mini charges.... I would unhook your battery overnight and see if it resets itself first.
Good luck
Sorry to hear of your bad luck. My guess would be your battery isn't a direct match for your car. There is a " programming" that some Minis need when batteries are replaced. I didn't need to go mine, but some do need it. You can do it yourself with CarlyBmw app, it's $50 but less than mini charges.... I would unhook your battery overnight and see if it resets itself first.
Good luck
#58
10-31-2015, 05:11 PM
Hi Michelle,
Sorry to hear of your bad luck. My guess would be your battery isn't a direct match for your car. There is a " programming" that some Minis need when batteries are replaced. I didn't need to go mine, but some do need it. You can do it yourself with CarlyBmw app, it's $50 but less than mini charges.... I would unhook your battery overnight and see if it resets itself first.
Good luck
Sorry to hear of your bad luck. My guess would be your battery isn't a direct match for your car. There is a " programming" that some Minis need when batteries are replaced. I didn't need to go mine, but some do need it. You can do it yourself with CarlyBmw app, it's $50 but less than mini charges.... I would unhook your battery overnight and see if it resets itself first.
Good luck
Thanks! I'll unhook it tonight and see if that helps first! I looked up the battery at the store when I bought it, so I'm almost positive it's the correct one. I hope it doesn't need to be programmed at the dealership bc I don't live anywhere near it!
#59
11-01-2015, 10:55 AM
Ok- it was unhooked over night, but is still showing the same problems. The day before all of this began, the brake lights were on, which drained the battery. Could that be related? I'm trying to avoid the dealership bc it's far from my house and probably going to be a lot of money.
The battery is an H5, which goes with the car. From what I've been reading in the forums, it keeps pointing to the FRM. Does anyone know if the FRM is replaced, does it have to be programmed? If so, is that something that MUST be done by the dealership?
Thanks in advance for any help!
Michelle
The battery is an H5, which goes with the car. From what I've been reading in the forums, it keeps pointing to the FRM. Does anyone know if the FRM is replaced, does it have to be programmed? If so, is that something that MUST be done by the dealership?
Thanks in advance for any help!
Michelle
#60
11-01-2015, 03:26 PM
3rd Gear
#61
11-02-2015, 04:55 AM
#62
11-06-2015, 04:46 PM
just a quick update in case anyone is having similar issues :
It was the footwell module (FRM) that went bad and caused the random electrical issues. There was no water damage. I brought it to an independent mechanic that specializes in foreign cars. $1200 later, it's fixed. He said he sees it quite often in Minis and knew what it was right away. To reprogram the FRM, he had to hook it up for four hours. Expensive fix, but at least it's working!
It was the footwell module (FRM) that went bad and caused the random electrical issues. There was no water damage. I brought it to an independent mechanic that specializes in foreign cars. $1200 later, it's fixed. He said he sees it quite often in Minis and knew what it was right away. To reprogram the FRM, he had to hook it up for four hours. Expensive fix, but at least it's working!
#63
11-06-2015, 05:40 PM
I thought I would post an update: It turns out that the drain tubes from my sunroof had become detached. This is a somewhat common issue if you live where water can freeze because the water expands and forces them off whatever cheap plastic Mini used. Plus there is nothing in the owner's manual telling people that they need to check this issue. I complained to MINIUSA and was able to get them to cover the cost of half the repairs. Out the door: $655. Good luck everybody!
#65
11-10-2015, 05:16 PM
This is a fascinating thread which has given me some hope!
I have a 2011 All4 S Countryman to which I recently fitted the genuine Mini DRLs.
These earth in the engine bay, take a 12v feed from the engine bay fuse box and get a signal from the Footwell Module (you have to break into a wire going into the module). Image below:
Also, does anyone know where pin 12 of plug X14261 comes from?
My assumption is that it comes from the left hand column lighting stalk. And when you switch the lights from OFF to either side lights ON, or dipped headlights ON it tells the switchgear illumination to come on and therefore is a signal to the DRLs to dim?
Any other thoughts?
I have a 2011 All4 S Countryman to which I recently fitted the genuine Mini DRLs.
These earth in the engine bay, take a 12v feed from the engine bay fuse box and get a signal from the Footwell Module (you have to break into a wire going into the module). Image below:
Also, does anyone know where pin 12 of plug X14261 comes from?
My assumption is that it comes from the left hand column lighting stalk. And when you switch the lights from OFF to either side lights ON, or dipped headlights ON it tells the switchgear illumination to come on and therefore is a signal to the DRLs to dim?
Any other thoughts?
I also checked the labeling in the installation guide for the JCW gauges, and there the labeling is correct! The top connector of the two big ones (towards front of car, upper connector with FRM fixed in lace) is 14261. The lower one is 14260.
WRT Pin 12 on 14261: it carries the signal K15, or A149a car access system. Pin 48 carries signal K58g (lighting).
#66
11-10-2015, 05:24 PM
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#67
01-23-2016, 11:14 PM
Bump. I disconnected the battery of my friend's mini cooper to work on it and now i have the same symptoms like the FRM is not working. How can I reset the FRM?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4167429
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4167429
#68
03-03-2016, 12:15 AM
2nd Gear
I disconnected the battery and the DME to change the thermostat and when I put it back together the FRM was dead. Only lighting I had was low beams, tail lights, brake lights, and the boot light.
Before this whole ordeal of the junk BMW/MINI FRM dying the only software I used was playing with was Carly for iOS and Dashcommand.
This is what I did to get my 2011 mcs frm back to life.
All this made possible by the thread FRM3 Resurrection on e90post.
xprog to frm hook up(see attached):
Vdd(+5V) = Vcc
RESET = B5
BKGD = B3
GND = GND (do not use the GND that is B0)
I think since we are not using the XCLKS and EXTAL flashing works with or without the BDM adapter.
This video helped me install the xprog software and see how it works.
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x27mzp3_xprog-m-v5-50-how-to-download-software_auto I was not able to get this software to work with windows 7 64-bit. I was lucky enough to have an old HDD with windows 7 32-bit.
Before plugging in the xprog hardware go to system properties and change the device installation settings to never install driver software from windows update.
Once the software was setup I hooked up the frm to the xprog and tried to make a backup of the existing EPROM via the MCU/MPU -> Freescale 9S12XE -> MC9s12XEQ384_EEE profile. Error partition corrupted. Set the sector to 16. I also made a backup of the existing P-FLASH via the MCU/MPU -> Freescale 9S12XE -> MC9s12XEQ384_P-FLASH profile. I think I got errors the first few times I tried to do this but restarting the program resolved the error.
In the MCU/MPU -> Freescale 9S12XE -> MC9s12XEQ384_EEE profile: erase, blank, open good EEE dump, write, verify, close, new, read.
This took several tries because the read back was still showing as blank.
I removed the BDM adapter and went direct into the xprog box. I also closed the program and reopened it when it kept giving me errors. After I was able to get a good write to the FRM I installed it back into the car and it was working again with a couple of errors (xenon high beam failure and fog light failure).
In NCS expert I backed up the FRM, changed the VO and VIN, reset the FRM to factory and still had the high beam and fog errors. I proceeded to WINKFP to update the FRM and none of the ZB-numbers for my ECU worked. I updated WINKFP with BMW coding tool and the list of available ZB-numbers changed. After WINKFP was able to update the FRM I went back to NCS Expert and copied the VO from the CAS to the FRM and then set the FRM back to defaults. Everything was fixed. Fired up ISTA+ and cleared fault memory.
Afterwards I hooked the frm back to the xprog and made a backup of the EEE and pflash.
My FRM:
R56 HIGH EKS 35 frm3r pl3 6135 3456395 01 23994322 sw141030 hw07 5324828c5
mc9s12xeq384mag
3m25j
Internet file:
R56 HIGH EKS 35 frm3r pl3 6135 3456987 01 23994322 sw156033 hw11 5324828r5
According to realoem parts 61353456395 and 61353456987 are Bilaterally exchangeable.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...&q=61353456395
Before this whole ordeal of the junk BMW/MINI FRM dying the only software I used was playing with was Carly for iOS and Dashcommand.
This is what I did to get my 2011 mcs frm back to life.
All this made possible by the thread FRM3 Resurrection on e90post.
I get many PM's regarding bricked FRM3 repair. So thought this thread could be a point of information for people who want to repair their bricked module. By bricked I means EEPROM damage through coding / programming due to voltage fluctuation resulting in IFH-0009 error and no communication via OBD.
In this case the module is still good but requires a good EEPROM dump / p-flash being written to it. Once the good EEPROM is in, communication via obd should be restored and vin / VO will need to changed. You also need to find a correct zusb number and flash it with winkfp.
INFO:
MCU is a 9S12XDT384 (mask 3M25J)
DATASHEET - http://cache.freescale.com/files/mic...S12XDFAMPP.pdf
PROGRAMMERS confirmed to support this MCU:
UPA USB Programmer
XPROG-M
R270
ORANGE
METHOD:
Basically...
1. Erase EEPROM (4096bytes)
2. Write good dump
3. Verify obd working and change vin / VO as if retrofitting used FRM3.
4. Flash with correct zusb number for your vehicle using winkfp.
To connect to the MCU there are 3 methods I'm aware of:
1. In socket - desolder chip
2. In circuit - BDM points - reverse of PCB - see image attached.
3. Direct - test clips onto pins like Pamona Micro Grabbers or cheaper alternative.
In this case the module is still good but requires a good EEPROM dump / p-flash being written to it. Once the good EEPROM is in, communication via obd should be restored and vin / VO will need to changed. You also need to find a correct zusb number and flash it with winkfp.
INFO:
MCU is a 9S12XDT384 (mask 3M25J)
DATASHEET - http://cache.freescale.com/files/mic...S12XDFAMPP.pdf
PROGRAMMERS confirmed to support this MCU:
UPA USB Programmer
XPROG-M
R270
ORANGE
METHOD:
Basically...
1. Erase EEPROM (4096bytes)
2. Write good dump
3. Verify obd working and change vin / VO as if retrofitting used FRM3.
4. Flash with correct zusb number for your vehicle using winkfp.
To connect to the MCU there are 3 methods I'm aware of:
1. In socket - desolder chip
2. In circuit - BDM points - reverse of PCB - see image attached.
3. Direct - test clips onto pins like Pamona Micro Grabbers or cheaper alternative.
xprog to frm hook up(see attached):
Vdd(+5V) = Vcc
RESET = B5
BKGD = B3
GND = GND (do not use the GND that is B0)
I think since we are not using the XCLKS and EXTAL flashing works with or without the BDM adapter.
This video helped me install the xprog software and see how it works.
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x27mzp3_xprog-m-v5-50-how-to-download-software_auto I was not able to get this software to work with windows 7 64-bit. I was lucky enough to have an old HDD with windows 7 32-bit.
Before plugging in the xprog hardware go to system properties and change the device installation settings to never install driver software from windows update.
Once the software was setup I hooked up the frm to the xprog and tried to make a backup of the existing EPROM via the MCU/MPU -> Freescale 9S12XE -> MC9s12XEQ384_EEE profile. Error partition corrupted. Set the sector to 16. I also made a backup of the existing P-FLASH via the MCU/MPU -> Freescale 9S12XE -> MC9s12XEQ384_P-FLASH profile. I think I got errors the first few times I tried to do this but restarting the program resolved the error.
In the MCU/MPU -> Freescale 9S12XE -> MC9s12XEQ384_EEE profile: erase, blank, open good EEE dump, write, verify, close, new, read.
This took several tries because the read back was still showing as blank.
I removed the BDM adapter and went direct into the xprog box. I also closed the program and reopened it when it kept giving me errors. After I was able to get a good write to the FRM I installed it back into the car and it was working again with a couple of errors (xenon high beam failure and fog light failure).
In NCS expert I backed up the FRM, changed the VO and VIN, reset the FRM to factory and still had the high beam and fog errors. I proceeded to WINKFP to update the FRM and none of the ZB-numbers for my ECU worked. I updated WINKFP with BMW coding tool and the list of available ZB-numbers changed. After WINKFP was able to update the FRM I went back to NCS Expert and copied the VO from the CAS to the FRM and then set the FRM back to defaults. Everything was fixed. Fired up ISTA+ and cleared fault memory.
Afterwards I hooked the frm back to the xprog and made a backup of the EEE and pflash.
My FRM:
R56 HIGH EKS 35 frm3r pl3 6135 3456395 01 23994322 sw141030 hw07 5324828c5
mc9s12xeq384mag
3m25j
Internet file:
R56 HIGH EKS 35 frm3r pl3 6135 3456987 01 23994322 sw156033 hw11 5324828r5
According to realoem parts 61353456395 and 61353456987 are Bilaterally exchangeable.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...&q=61353456395
Last edited by pepperwhiteknight; 03-06-2016 at 01:33 AM. Reason: improve clarity
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Ray167 (06-03-2020),
RoadTripMachine (09-12-2023)
#69
03-03-2016, 03:21 AM
I am facing the same issue after recoding using Carly. This is what they have reply to me: This
is due to a faulty EEProm of your FRM.
Once we rewrite this EEPROM memory back, everything works perfectly again.
About a year ago we had, in fact the case that two FRMs (E90) stopped going.
We sent the defective control units for analysis to Switzerland to a
specialized ECU development company. There they found out that the BMW FRM2
and FRM3 firmware had a bug and has therefore been wiped after a few
restarts of the ECU.
The error has nothing to do with the coding (wasn't even located in the
coding memory), but was due to a dead memory sector in the boot memory. But
since after coding the module must be restarted to apply the settings, it
looked at first as if the app had something to do with the whole thing. Due
to the necessity of the restart after coding, the same thing would have
happened via conventional coding via PC (and unfortunately has a lot with
both BMWs and Minis).
In principle, this is as if during a PC is running it gets an error in the
boot memory. As long as the PC is running there are no problems. Now, if the
PC is restarted (e.g. after an update), it looks as if the update had
corrupted the PC when in fact it is actually something completely else.
We have searched in the meantime with support from many conventional coders
and the coding forums for the issue and only FRM modules (especially in the
period between 2008-2012) are affected by this error.
is due to a faulty EEProm of your FRM.
Once we rewrite this EEPROM memory back, everything works perfectly again.
About a year ago we had, in fact the case that two FRMs (E90) stopped going.
We sent the defective control units for analysis to Switzerland to a
specialized ECU development company. There they found out that the BMW FRM2
and FRM3 firmware had a bug and has therefore been wiped after a few
restarts of the ECU.
The error has nothing to do with the coding (wasn't even located in the
coding memory), but was due to a dead memory sector in the boot memory. But
since after coding the module must be restarted to apply the settings, it
looked at first as if the app had something to do with the whole thing. Due
to the necessity of the restart after coding, the same thing would have
happened via conventional coding via PC (and unfortunately has a lot with
both BMWs and Minis).
In principle, this is as if during a PC is running it gets an error in the
boot memory. As long as the PC is running there are no problems. Now, if the
PC is restarted (e.g. after an update), it looks as if the update had
corrupted the PC when in fact it is actually something completely else.
We have searched in the meantime with support from many conventional coders
and the coding forums for the issue and only FRM modules (especially in the
period between 2008-2012) are affected by this error.
The following users liked this post:
RoadTripMachine (09-12-2023)
#70
03-15-2016, 06:57 AM
I thought I would post an update: It turns out that the drain tubes from my sunroof had become detached. This is a somewhat common issue if you live where water can freeze because the water expands and forces them off whatever cheap plastic Mini used. Plus there is nothing in the owner's manual telling people that they need to check this issue. I complained to MINIUSA and was able to get them to cover the cost of half the repairs. Out the door: $655. Good luck everybody!
#71
03-23-2016, 03:21 PM
My FRM went bad last night. Everything was fine, minus This Ongoing Problem.
I was hoping nothing else would go wrong before I could sell it but I started the car last night and got the red service lift symbol. I lost power windows, turn signals, interior lights, gauge lights, fog lights, the adaptive part of the headlights(but not the lights themselves) lock/unlock from outside via handle button, and also lost brake lights(except for the top one). I did some quick research and found this thread. I checked every single fuse in the car, disconnected the battery, and took the FRM box out in the hopes that something would reset it self, but no such luck. There are no burnt traces, no water damage, no appearance of any damage at on on the PCB inside the FRM. There are however, many ICs and chips so no telling where the failure lies. So it appears that I am now another $500-$700 down on the car, in addition to the $1000 I was quoted to fix the starting/idling problems.
I have not fixed anything yet, I can't justify spending that much money on the car. That's a down payment on a brand new car with a warranty. So I've decided to sell it and move on. I really love my Mini - it's the most fun and enjoyment I've ever had in a car but I'm just over BMW's problems. I know I will lose money on the sale but I have to stop the bleeding and there's no cheap way around that.
I was hoping nothing else would go wrong before I could sell it but I started the car last night and got the red service lift symbol. I lost power windows, turn signals, interior lights, gauge lights, fog lights, the adaptive part of the headlights(but not the lights themselves) lock/unlock from outside via handle button, and also lost brake lights(except for the top one). I did some quick research and found this thread. I checked every single fuse in the car, disconnected the battery, and took the FRM box out in the hopes that something would reset it self, but no such luck. There are no burnt traces, no water damage, no appearance of any damage at on on the PCB inside the FRM. There are however, many ICs and chips so no telling where the failure lies. So it appears that I am now another $500-$700 down on the car, in addition to the $1000 I was quoted to fix the starting/idling problems.
I have not fixed anything yet, I can't justify spending that much money on the car. That's a down payment on a brand new car with a warranty. So I've decided to sell it and move on. I really love my Mini - it's the most fun and enjoyment I've ever had in a car but I'm just over BMW's problems. I know I will lose money on the sale but I have to stop the bleeding and there's no cheap way around that.
#72
03-28-2016, 02:49 PM
Foot well part price
sounds like a good thread to have. I have had a bulb warning light ever since I spliced into the DRL wire when I put after market fog lights on my Mini. I finally ran a wire to the battery to power my lights but really wanted to be able to have it tired to the car system so the light would turn off when the ignition is off. I will be watching this.
Anyone know how much it cost to replace this module.
thks
Anyone know how much it cost to replace this module.
thks
#73
03-28-2016, 04:26 PM
I would like to start a thread on the Foot Well Module (FRM), to compile information on what it does, what problems it might be related to, and solutions (if any).
(Also added footwell module to text for search engine)
Functions:
The FRM controls many lighting functions, but apparently also window winder functions, and maybe others.
From the MINI workshop manual:
'The FRM in the R56 is an electrical intersection. The FRM picks up the
signals from the doors and controls the lighting. Moreover, the FRM is
also the interface to the instrument cluster.
See also the attached image from the MINI workshop manual.
The FRM and the junction box electronics control the power window drives.'
The FRM has to be specifically coded to the vehicle VIN, and AFAIK this can only be done by the dealer.
There are at least 3 different versions of the FRM, and each also comes with multiple part numbers based on whether the car has adaptive headlights or not.
Location:
This is the module that sits on the drivers side foot well, behind the hood release (in US cars).
Connectors:
There are three connectors to it, two on one side (towards front of car), a single on the other (rear of car) side. The single is X14259, the other two are X14260 and X14261
Associated fuses:
I have not been able to verify this, but based on other posts it seems the FRM is associated with multiple fuses, including:
F5, F8, F47, F48 and maybe F14.
This may vary based on what features the car has.
FRM associated problems:
Problems the FRM has been associated with (this also unconfirmed):
Multiple lighting gremlins, including turn signals, xenon headlights, license plate lights, interior lighting. See this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/r56-hatch-talk-2007/261152-license-plate-lights-out-2.html
Window winder functions. See this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/158722-drivers-door-window-dipper.html
There has been some mention of multiple FRM failures, and of exchanges of the FRM solving problems, or not.
Here are details from my experience to date:
I got into this via installation of the JCW sports gauges in my 2013 R56s (see thread on this):
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/interior-exterior/249553-who-has-installed-jcw-sport-gauges-themselves-2.html
After completing the installation, I got electrical gremlins that I still have not been able to eliminate:
Either the xenons are always on (as soon as ignition is turned on), and/or one or the other, or both of the turn signals are not working. E-flashers are always working.
With some feedback from others in above post, I have been able to trace this to the FRM and associated cabling / connectors as the most likely culprit. This because meddling with any other aspect of the installation made no difference to the gremlins, whereas meddling with the FRM changes things. Specifically, (based on recommendations from KilmorePT, see above thread), 'playing' with the connectors and cables changes the 'gremlin mode'. This suggests connection problems. However, I am troubled by this because the connections should not be that delicate, and the FRM sits adjacent to the hood release, and in fact the cable to connector X14259 is secured to the release mechanism! To me, this suggests the possibility of a faulty FRM, or faulty connectors.
My next option may be a visit to the dealer to investigate.
I will keep posting here, and encourage others to add any information related to the FRM, if possible.
Thanks!
(Also added footwell module to text for search engine)
Functions:
The FRM controls many lighting functions, but apparently also window winder functions, and maybe others.
From the MINI workshop manual:
'The FRM in the R56 is an electrical intersection. The FRM picks up the
signals from the doors and controls the lighting. Moreover, the FRM is
also the interface to the instrument cluster.
See also the attached image from the MINI workshop manual.
The FRM and the junction box electronics control the power window drives.'
The FRM has to be specifically coded to the vehicle VIN, and AFAIK this can only be done by the dealer.
There are at least 3 different versions of the FRM, and each also comes with multiple part numbers based on whether the car has adaptive headlights or not.
Location:
This is the module that sits on the drivers side foot well, behind the hood release (in US cars).
Connectors:
There are three connectors to it, two on one side (towards front of car), a single on the other (rear of car) side. The single is X14259, the other two are X14260 and X14261
Associated fuses:
I have not been able to verify this, but based on other posts it seems the FRM is associated with multiple fuses, including:
F5, F8, F47, F48 and maybe F14.
This may vary based on what features the car has.
FRM associated problems:
Problems the FRM has been associated with (this also unconfirmed):
Multiple lighting gremlins, including turn signals, xenon headlights, license plate lights, interior lighting. See this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/r56-hatch-talk-2007/261152-license-plate-lights-out-2.html
Window winder functions. See this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/158722-drivers-door-window-dipper.html
There has been some mention of multiple FRM failures, and of exchanges of the FRM solving problems, or not.
Here are details from my experience to date:
I got into this via installation of the JCW sports gauges in my 2013 R56s (see thread on this):
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/interior-exterior/249553-who-has-installed-jcw-sport-gauges-themselves-2.html
After completing the installation, I got electrical gremlins that I still have not been able to eliminate:
Either the xenons are always on (as soon as ignition is turned on), and/or one or the other, or both of the turn signals are not working. E-flashers are always working.
With some feedback from others in above post, I have been able to trace this to the FRM and associated cabling / connectors as the most likely culprit. This because meddling with any other aspect of the installation made no difference to the gremlins, whereas meddling with the FRM changes things. Specifically, (based on recommendations from KilmorePT, see above thread), 'playing' with the connectors and cables changes the 'gremlin mode'. This suggests connection problems. However, I am troubled by this because the connections should not be that delicate, and the FRM sits adjacent to the hood release, and in fact the cable to connector X14259 is secured to the release mechanism! To me, this suggests the possibility of a faulty FRM, or faulty connectors.
My next option may be a visit to the dealer to investigate.
I will keep posting here, and encourage others to add any information related to the FRM, if possible.
Thanks!
Last edited by -=gRaY rAvEn=-; 03-28-2016 at 04:33 PM.
#75
06-30-2016, 08:13 PM
OK looks like I'm in the FRM took a Dodo club. Plugged in the computer to the OBD scanned to make sure my computer was working. Came back with some fault code. rescan and no FRM was detected. before that i had put the windows down because it was hot. no FRM and now i can't even put the windows up.
$1,500 is a crazy price, but i guess at this point i have no choice.
$1,500 is a crazy price, but i guess at this point i have no choice.