Electrical Automatic Sport Button Mod
#76
09-20-2008, 10:13 AM
When I did use it for real, it didn't work. It'd switch sport mode on, then switch it off again after the car had started. The problem turned out to be that when the car starts, the load of the starter motor only allows the main "12V" power to rise to 9 or 10V. After the car starts, the "12V" power then rises to its usual, which is around 14V. As the circuit is using the rise of the 12V power as a signal to press the button, it was switching the button when the car was turned on, then again when the voltage rose after the starter motor was finished.
After a little experimenting, I came up with the MK1a version of the mod board, which uses a zener diode to stabilise the power signal. It also uses a MOSFET to do the switching, which is what I wanted to use originally, but I couldn't find a suitable one at either Ratshack or Fry's (I got it from Digikey through work). I've made two of them and installed them in both MINIs, they seem to be working for real:
2N700 MOSFET transistor
10uF Tantalum capacitor
5.1V Zener diode
3 resistors, 470Ohm, 120kOhm, 2.2MOhm
After a little experimenting, I came up with the MK1a version of the mod board, which uses a zener diode to stabilise the power signal. It also uses a MOSFET to do the switching, which is what I wanted to use originally, but I couldn't find a suitable one at either Ratshack or Fry's (I got it from Digikey through work). I've made two of them and installed them in both MINIs, they seem to be working for real:
2N700 MOSFET transistor
10uF Tantalum capacitor
5.1V Zener diode
3 resistors, 470Ohm, 120kOhm, 2.2MOhm
#77
09-22-2008, 02:58 PM
yeah, it is a 2N7000 -- and the schematic is in his gallery at
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...3/ppuser/35560
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...3/ppuser/35560
#79
09-25-2008, 01:18 PM
ANOTHER satisfied customer!
After a little experimenting, I came up with the MK1a version of the mod board ... I've made two of them and installed them in both MINIs; they seem to be working for real:
2N7000 MOSFET transistor
10uF Tantalum capacitor
5.1V Zener diode
Three resistors: 470Ohm, 120kOhm, 2.2MOhm (all 1/4 watt 5%)
2N7000 MOSFET transistor
10uF Tantalum capacitor
5.1V Zener diode
Three resistors: 470Ohm, 120kOhm, 2.2MOhm (all 1/4 watt 5%)
-- and got it onto a small-enough board to heat-shrink the whole thing afterward. Six components from DigiKey totalled all of $1.10; see the gallery for a pic with all-DigiKey partnums. The "Add-A-Circuit Mini" (Littelfuse FHM200BP) tapped into F32 was another $9 at PepBoys.(Stupid soldering trick: if the SPORT light comes on and stays on after pushing the button, there's a short near the cap ... )
FYI: fuse F32 is the "outside-mirrors-switch" fuse ... a good choice that's low-current and infrequently-used.
To quote esteemed-colleague k6rtm: whee!
Last edited by basil49; 01-21-2009 at 02:46 PM. Reason: extra info
#80
09-25-2008, 01:54 PM
Ooops, I've been missing the updates in here, I'm glad its working out for people.
I'm having a little trouble in Shawn (the 08), it sometimes doesn't work. Its working fine in Tristan (the 07). So I'd be interested to know it works in other 08s. The problem is either a manufacturing fault, a wiring fault or a design problem. The manufacturing fault I could test by swapping the modules between the MINIs. The wiring would require me ripping off the trim again which I'm loath to do. If its a design fault, it'd need a redesign.
I've been a little worried that it switches the sport button while things are still starting up. To many button presses at once might annoy something (R53s were supposed to be good at that). I've been thinking of doing a redesign using a 556 timer, so it'd wait a while before it'd press the button.
I'm having a little trouble in Shawn (the 08), it sometimes doesn't work. Its working fine in Tristan (the 07). So I'd be interested to know it works in other 08s. The problem is either a manufacturing fault, a wiring fault or a design problem. The manufacturing fault I could test by swapping the modules between the MINIs. The wiring would require me ripping off the trim again which I'm loath to do. If its a design fault, it'd need a redesign.
I've been a little worried that it switches the sport button while things are still starting up. To many button presses at once might annoy something (R53s were supposed to be good at that). I've been thinking of doing a redesign using a 556 timer, so it'd wait a while before it'd press the button.
#81
09-25-2008, 02:05 PM
I've been a little worried that it switches the sport button while things are still starting up. To many button presses at once might annoy something (R53s were supposed to be good at that). I've been thinking of doing a redesign using a 556 timer, so it'd wait a while before it'd press the button.
UPDATE July2009: no problems with the four known installed copies of Btwyx's circuit I built and circulated -- call it SOLID.
Last edited by basil49; 07-17-2009 at 12:44 PM.
#82
10-08-2008, 02:13 PM
I thought about doing that, considering I do have rather easy access to a lot of the parts and tools needed (I'm a cinema repair tech) so the question becomes how much to charge? and making sure that I don't break any potential NAM guidlines. I would be willing to build up the kit, cut the necessary jumpers and provide some additional instruction if need be.
GoMiniGo sells the Brake Pulsar (a similar item?) for $30 + shipping. I'd happily pay $50, $75 would be a harder sell but I'd probably suck it up. Others might decide they can just remember to push the stupid button every time.
My '08 Clubman S just arrived, and I'm getting sick of the button
how soon can you get me one?
#83
10-09-2008, 01:09 PM
Auto on Sport Button guy
#85
10-14-2008, 01:06 PM
#86
11-05-2008, 07:04 PM
Can someone help me with this? I've got all these parts, and im trying to figure out which parts go where. Coffeman mentioned something about "The attached diagram shows the relay wiper outputting +12v. Wiring of the relay contacts needs to be changed to output -12v (ground)"
Is this refering to 30 or 86? I'm assuming 30, but this is my guess. My understanding of this diagram is for 87 to go to the fuse in the fuse panel, 85 hooked up to the capacitor and resistor in parallel and that to ground?, then 30 goes to ground as well? or does it go to the sport button wire? or that might be 85. and then 86 goes to..? as you can tell... im very confused. If i were to guess i'd do something along those guesses, but i dont want to mess up anything with the valued sport button by messing up. haha I know most people have gone with the altronix board, but I wanted a challenge, and now I got stuck (i didnt get very far =p ) .Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!
Is this refering to 30 or 86? I'm assuming 30, but this is my guess. My understanding of this diagram is for 87 to go to the fuse in the fuse panel, 85 hooked up to the capacitor and resistor in parallel and that to ground?, then 30 goes to ground as well? or does it go to the sport button wire? or that might be 85. and then 86 goes to..? as you can tell... im very confused. If i were to guess i'd do something along those guesses, but i dont want to mess up anything with the valued sport button by messing up. haha I know most people have gone with the altronix board, but I wanted a challenge, and now I got stuck (i didnt get very far =p ) .Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!
#87
11-08-2008, 07:22 AM
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Can someone help me with this? I've got all these parts, and im trying to figure out which parts go where. Coffeman mentioned something about "The attached diagram shows the relay wiper outputting +12v. Wiring of the relay contacts needs to be changed to output -12v (ground)"
Is this refering to 30 or 86? I'm assuming 30, but this is my guess. My understanding of this diagram is for 87 to go to the fuse in the fuse panel, 85 hooked up to the capacitor and resistor in parallel and that to ground?, then 30 goes to ground as well? or does it go to the sport button wire? or that might be 85. and then 86 goes to..? as you can tell... im very confused. If i were to guess i'd do something along those guesses, but i dont want to mess up anything with the valued sport button by messing up. haha I know most people have gone with the altronix board, but I wanted a challenge, and now I got stuck (i didnt get very far =p ) .Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!
Is this refering to 30 or 86? I'm assuming 30, but this is my guess. My understanding of this diagram is for 87 to go to the fuse in the fuse panel, 85 hooked up to the capacitor and resistor in parallel and that to ground?, then 30 goes to ground as well? or does it go to the sport button wire? or that might be 85. and then 86 goes to..? as you can tell... im very confused. If i were to guess i'd do something along those guesses, but i dont want to mess up anything with the valued sport button by messing up. haha I know most people have gone with the altronix board, but I wanted a challenge, and now I got stuck (i didnt get very far =p ) .Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!
#88
11-08-2008, 09:38 AM
but now where do the rest of the pins connect to? sorry im such a nub. so 87 i just ground to the chassis, so which pin connects to the fuse?
thanks
#89
11-08-2008, 09:40 AM
#90
11-08-2008, 10:38 AM
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#91
11-09-2008, 05:23 PM
#92
12-02-2008, 07:56 AM
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Due to the new guidelines here on NAM, I can't really tell you what I think of fog light users who aren't in heavy fog.
They are designed to be used with the headlights turned off. In dense fog where your headlights are blinding you with glare (I'm mean DENSE fog), you turn off your headlights and turn on the fogs. Being closer to the ground, their beam has a better chance of cutting under the fog and letting you see farther.
Exactly!!!
#93
12-24-2008, 06:38 PM
I just built a kit and installed this mod and LOVE IT! Thank you to everyone involved in making this great idea happen!
Let us hope the 2010 models will have this built in as a programmable feature "Sport on/off when starting your MINI"... but then again lose the fun of having to rip your MINI apart, attach foreign objects to it, electrocute yourself (I'm a freakin clutz) here and there, splice factory wire, cut a piece of J2 labeled metal from a circuit board that looks like a time bomb... it's so worth it!!!! That feeling you get when it works!!! Yay!!!
Let us hope the 2010 models will have this built in as a programmable feature "Sport on/off when starting your MINI"... but then again lose the fun of having to rip your MINI apart, attach foreign objects to it, electrocute yourself (I'm a freakin clutz) here and there, splice factory wire, cut a piece of J2 labeled metal from a circuit board that looks like a time bomb... it's so worth it!!!! That feeling you get when it works!!! Yay!!!
#94
08-14-2009, 07:24 AM
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#95
11-06-2009, 08:00 PM
IF you want to roll your own...
have at it. But a new product from my company makes all these other circuits obsolete. It's $54.95, does sport mode, auto start/stop (if your car has it), and DSC control (including DTC and eDLC) and can control up to three (well, if your car has three buttons) accessories. An added feature is that you can enable and disable the functions using the buttons (all others require you to actually disconnect the circuit) so that you can turn it off when it's time for service, or just disable the DSC system at track days.
Anyway, I know this is an old thread, but if any of you have one of the units that uses the Altronix boards, there is a special upgrade offer here.
Matt
Anyway, I know this is an old thread, but if any of you have one of the units that uses the Altronix boards, there is a special upgrade offer here.
Matt
#96
11-11-2009, 11:23 AM
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#97
11-11-2009, 08:05 PM
Auto on Sport Button guy
#99
04-27-2013, 03:48 PM
3rd Gear
SPort JBE accessability
Is it the trim panel BELOW the fuse box access on the pass side footwell?
A larger, color pic might be more helpful to me.
Any trick to getting the trim off as well?
Thanks.
#100
06-06-2013, 08:27 AM
3rd Gear
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