Drivetrain Question for those with a Valeo clutch kit
#1
Question for those with a Valeo clutch kit
I just got my car back from installing the Valeo single mass conversion clutch kit and I have a couple of questions.
1. My clutch has a dead spot for the first 1/3 travel until I feel any pressure. Is this normal? It doesn't seem right. I know it's supposed to be lighter and have a narrower engagement point, but this feels weird, like it needs adjusting or something.
2. I noticed as soon as I started the car that the engine sounded louder, almost like there was a hole in the firewall. Very weird. Would the single mass flywheel make the engine louder? (I expected a smidgen more vibration but again, this sounds strange).
1. My clutch has a dead spot for the first 1/3 travel until I feel any pressure. Is this normal? It doesn't seem right. I know it's supposed to be lighter and have a narrower engagement point, but this feels weird, like it needs adjusting or something.
2. I noticed as soon as I started the car that the engine sounded louder, almost like there was a hole in the firewall. Very weird. Would the single mass flywheel make the engine louder? (I expected a smidgen more vibration but again, this sounds strange).
#2
#3
feeling a draft down by your feet by chance?
I've seen a few r53's that pull the large 'grommet / sealing boot' for the steering column off of the chasis when someone lowers the front subframe.
BTW.. its a PITA to get back in place. (fought me tooth and nail last time I had to do it)
But if that comes of it will definitely be louder in the cabin than before.
Good thing is you can check that with a flash light and some contortions to get into your drivers footwell. look at the boot and poke the bit that connects to the chassis. it should be attached to the chassis all the way around (through a lip seal) if it's not.. well thar she blows.
I've seen a few r53's that pull the large 'grommet / sealing boot' for the steering column off of the chasis when someone lowers the front subframe.
BTW.. its a PITA to get back in place. (fought me tooth and nail last time I had to do it)
But if that comes of it will definitely be louder in the cabin than before.
Good thing is you can check that with a flash light and some contortions to get into your drivers footwell. look at the boot and poke the bit that connects to the chassis. it should be attached to the chassis all the way around (through a lip seal) if it's not.. well thar she blows.
#4
feeling a draft down by your feet by chance?
I've seen a few r53's that pull the large 'grommet / sealing boot' for the steering column off of the chasis when someone lowers the front subframe.
BTW.. its a PITA to get back in place. (fought me tooth and nail last time I had to do it)
But if that comes of it will definitely be louder in the cabin than before.
.
I've seen a few r53's that pull the large 'grommet / sealing boot' for the steering column off of the chasis when someone lowers the front subframe.
BTW.. its a PITA to get back in place. (fought me tooth and nail last time I had to do it)
But if that comes of it will definitely be louder in the cabin than before.
.
#6
#7
If the pedal has a soft spot at the top of travel the system is bled wrong and can cause problems.
You need to get the car in the air, pull the boot back on the slave and see if its leaking. If so, replace it it's failed.
Bleeding the slave is an art form on these cars and requires a special compression tool to do it right, without it you'll either damage the slave when you **** e plunger in the bore or you'll play hell trying to bleed it.
You need to get the car in the air, pull the boot back on the slave and see if its leaking. If so, replace it it's failed.
Bleeding the slave is an art form on these cars and requires a special compression tool to do it right, without it you'll either damage the slave when you **** e plunger in the bore or you'll play hell trying to bleed it.
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#9
#10
The reason a lot of you are having this dead spot is because there is air in the system. The clutch is the same thickness therefore the bearing travels the same amount before engaging the pressure plate. From what I have read the only real proper way to bleed our clutch if it is removed is to rig up a plate over the pinion and tighten it all the way to where it's full pushed into the cylinder. And then you bleed it. But after all of that you'll still have air so it is highly recommended to wedge the clutch pedal as tight as possible with the pinion pushed in still and to leave it over night with the brake reservoir cap off. This allows air to escape. I still haven't got my motor back but I have already done this as I don't need my transmission to bleed it.
#13
Bringing back a recent thread.
New Valeo, very gentle, like driving a Honda. I don't really have a "dead spot", but engagement seems like the last 25% of pedal travel, near the top. That is generally a sign of a worn clutch, but i know it is the same size.
Is this just a bleed issue? If so, I may drive it for a bit and see if the air works its way out. Brake pedal also just a little spongy, but good stopping power (EBC Red).
Thanks.
Regards,
Jerry
New Valeo, very gentle, like driving a Honda. I don't really have a "dead spot", but engagement seems like the last 25% of pedal travel, near the top. That is generally a sign of a worn clutch, but i know it is the same size.
Is this just a bleed issue? If so, I may drive it for a bit and see if the air works its way out. Brake pedal also just a little spongy, but good stopping power (EBC Red).
Thanks.
Regards,
Jerry
#14
Bringing back a recent thread.
New Valeo, very gentle, like driving a Honda. I don't really have a "dead spot", but engagement seems like the last 25% of pedal travel, near the top. That is generally a sign of a worn clutch, but i know it is the same size.
Is this just a bleed issue? If so, I may drive it for a bit and see if the air works its way out. Brake pedal also just a little spongy, but good stopping power (EBC Red).
Thanks.
Regards,
Jerry
New Valeo, very gentle, like driving a Honda. I don't really have a "dead spot", but engagement seems like the last 25% of pedal travel, near the top. That is generally a sign of a worn clutch, but i know it is the same size.
Is this just a bleed issue? If so, I may drive it for a bit and see if the air works its way out. Brake pedal also just a little spongy, but good stopping power (EBC Red).
Thanks.
Regards,
Jerry
- Andrew
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gsfent (12-05-2017)
#15
4th Gear
iTrader: (5)
I too installed the Valeo single mass conversion and thought I didn't bleed properly at first, but within a week all is A-OK. The first few days every once in a while I had to double pump the clutch to get it to shift without grinding, by day 3 that was gone, and by day 7 or so it felt totally normal.