I was going to SeaFoam my engine to try and solve a stumbling/poor performance issue. And after thinking about it I just didn't feel good about the 'mechanic in a can' approach to fixing it (SeaFoam). So I took the intake manifold off to have a look. It was actually pretty easy to get at the intake manifold and remove it. The picture says it all. The arrows are pointing to oil accumulation on the port walls. This is shrouding the airflow to the backside of the valve.

Now I'm working on the best way to clean it off. I'll probably use the SeaFoam and a small brush. I'll post more pictures as things progress.

It would be interesting to put it back together and SeaFoam it, and then take it apart again and see how well the SeaFoam really works. But I want it fixed right and I don't have the time or desire to experiment.

Hoopty

 

It would be much more helpful to know how many miles are on the car, what the oil change interval was, type of oil, and of course, let's see how the sea foam worked?

Thanks.

 

The picture tells it all. Hours of soaking, scraping and scrubbing. The worst part was the backside of the valves. This stuff is like thick hard tar.

My opinion on SeaFoam is......I doubt if you can pour it in the vent hose and clean this stuff off the valves. It is a good solvent/cleaner and it did a good jobs with all my cleaning by hand. Pouring it in when the engine is running has the advantage of the tar like buildup might come off easier when it is hot. But if you were able to wet these surfaces and then shut the engine off for 30 minutes.....I think this stuff would vaporize around the valve area in about 20 seconds. The intake manifold would probably be cleaned, and I suspect all the smoke that everyone is seeing is from the intake system being cleaned but not much around the valves. I could be wrong....I hope I'm wrong. I don't want to have to do this every 20k miles.

Hoopty

 

I just want to ask if your car experienced a CEL prior to cleaning with seafoam

 

nice work. So how's it running now?

 

Great job cleaning them Randall..........

how's it run now?

 

All the hard work payed off big time. It is much smoother (cold or warm), responsive, and much faster. It feels like did when it was new.

My next step is to add a OCC (oil catch can). I like this design and I'm going to order this one tomorrow.

http://store.42draftdesigns.com/Ulti...an_p_288.html#

Hoopty

 

Thanks for sharing your seafoam experience hoopty. Wow, the before and after pics are really dramatic. I was just listening to a White Roof Radio podcast in which they discussed seafoam treatments and their conclusion was that even though it might work, they felt it might affect the O2 sensors so they wouldn't suggest it. But it seems like there are so many NAM users who swear by it.

I have a newbie question: If one were to install an oil catch can early on in a MINI's life (like say the first 5000 miles) would that minimize or even eliminate the need for seafoam treatments later on?

 

I've had discussions with a few automotive experts about the potential down stream effect of the Seafoam. Not only on the O2 sensors but also the catalytic converters. All this considered is why I chose to pull off the manifold and clean it by hand.

Hoopty

 

..i have the same question

 

Great thread Hoopty! Awesome pics

This is exactly the same procedure that MINI tech's will perform if you bring a car in to them and they deem it's issues are related to carbon build-up. Honestly seems very tedious and a PITA...but it works!

For the time being I'll stick to just sucking the SeaFoam in the PCV...as it definitely produces noticeable results.

 

I have no doubt in that physically cleaning the intake manifold is way more effective than using the Seafoam.

However, based on countless people, Seafoam has proven itself and many people would rather use it periodically than let say taking the manifold off every so often.

And I heard people saying that it ruins Cat, Plugs, and O2 sensors but majority of people continues to use it w/o a problem so...

anyways, I'm glad your car is running fine and you are enjoying it once again

 

Gawd, I hope they were this thorough. I had this service done last fall by MNS at $200. The MINI ran fine afterward, but I wouldn't call it a great improvement. Maybe my build up wasn't that bad?


I should note that I did have the Cold Start Death Rattle (tm) addressed recently (tensioner replaced - same chain) and the MINI is just way smoother now. Maybe it was a combination of issues that prevented the manifold cleaning from really shining through.

 

is just some really nasty petroleum distillates. It will burn off fine. The rumor of cat and 02 sensor fouling is just that, a rumor and zillions of treatments by zillions of people show that the stuff doesn't hurt the engine or exhaust system.

Don't like Sea Foam? Then there's Techron, BK44 or a bunch of other products as well. All do the same thing pretty much.

BTW, I don't think this fouling throws codes till you get misfires or the like.

Anyway, the photos are a great illustration of the issue and the fix.

Matt

 

You said it was easy to remove the manifold. Can you give us pics and directions next time you do this process?? This is a continuing problem for mini engines and options besides the seafoam would much appreciated! Thanks for your post!

 

May want to look into the BSH catch can/boost port (pcv plug). Much cheaper than that can you listed and is great quality.

 

+1 for the BSH catch can - very complete key with Jose and proper size fittings

 

Does Jose install it for you?

I've read about people liking the BSH catch can. Why is it better than the one Moss MINI has?
http://www.mossmini.com/Shop/ViewPro...eIndexID=88979
To me, the it being clear means you can see what is going on inside. It looks like you can open it up and put stainless steel scrub pads in there to catch more vapor than an empty canister would. So, what advantages does the BSH have? I suspect I've missed something.

 

+2 for the BSH OCC.

I just got mine installed. Product had much thought put into the design of the unit. I got the DBP installed, so I would not have to run two OCC for out PCV system. Owner of BSH is a great guy to deal with as well.







I know... I gotta cut the ends of the hose clamps...

 

I really don't like being put on the spot like that, but since you asked /nicely/...

BTW: I have no affiliation with BSH or any other MINI after-market parts producer. Just joking around.

--Jose

 

Robin
The BSH CC fittings are the same size as the OEM fitting - they do not neck down in size so better throughput. The BSH Can has internal baffles that act as a condensing agent for the vapors that pass though the can. Nothing wrong with a clear canister but I like the matte black better and I think it fits/looks better in the engine bay.

Check here to see what it catches.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/drivetrain-cooper-s/183744-bsh-catch-can-and-dual-boost-port-install-4.html

 

Does anyone know the torque specs on the intake manifold? I would love to do this procedure but I'm not sure how it is done. What are the ramifications of too much Seafoam going directly into combustion chamber past the valves?

 

A quick overview.....

(This is how I did it. There may be a better way)

Disconnect the battery.......Then remove the air filter housing. Remove the noise maker and its hoses as one assembly. Remove the boost sensor and cable from the manifold. Remove the five nuts holding the intake manifold on. Then just push the manifold back against the firewall. Then I hung a mirror down so I could see into the intake ports, and worked on everything by looking into the ports and via the mirror. Because of my old bad back....I also laid some old large pillows on the top of the engine so I could lay on them comfortably while I was working. Turn the engine over till the two valves were closed then sprayed in SeaFoam with a spray bottle till there was about 1/4" deep puddle in each of the two valves pockets. Let this soak for a couple hours. If there another port with the valves closes go ahead and do two at a time. Then with scrapping and scrubbing work off all the tar like oil build up. I used a small super bright LED flash light to see my progress. I got pretty good at getting a good look with the flashlight and then working blind by just using feel and scrapping and scrubbing. Then using strips of towels I soaked up all the Seafoam out of the ports, this makes sure that no SeaFoam or tar/oil got into the cylinders. Then kept repeating this process till all was clean and tar/oil free. Turned the engine over till he next set of vales closed and repeated the process.

Late Addition: I forgot to mention that after cleaning the best I could with the valves closed I turned the engine over so the valves were fully open and carefully cleaned around the valve edge and valve seat. I was super careful that nothing fell into the cylinder during the stage.

I took the opportunity while the noise maker was out to plug it with a 1" PVC end cap and reinstalled everything. Double check that none of the small vacuum lines became disconnected on the bottom side of the manifold.

See the attached picture of the work in progress.

That's pretty much it......

good luck, Hoopty

 

Are there any gaskets that may get damaged in the process of removing the manifold or other parts?

 

I asked at the dealer before I started and they said no......nothing required. The manifold has rubber oval o-rings around the ports. And mine were still soft and compliant, and my car has 40k miles. So it is hard to say what your car has.....but my guess is they will be fine.

Hoopty