Did fixing your 0340 position sensor have any effect on your DSC?

 

Supported the engine in the middle of the crosshatch plate and used some wood to spread the load be sure not to use a piece so big that it touches the subframe on the left side.


Removed the four number 17 bolts and one number 18 bolt. Removed a ground strap and withdrew the top bracket.

Swapped out the sensor using a number 10. The little red slide is a locking mechanism for the connectors and should be slid partially to unlock.

For reassembly the torque settings are 50nm on the four bolts and 80nm on the number 18.

Had to go for a run then power cycle the car to get the SES light to extinguish but the DSC light was out immediately.

 

Yes installed the CAM Sensor and reset the computer. No problems since with any of the lights and the code has been cleared.

 

Crap! My guy started throwing this code today.

Need to order the sensor and swap it out, then clear the code. Im glad it is relatively straight forward and not a million dollars.

 

I just saw this in the other thread. Sorry to hear it, which sensor are you planning on ordering?

 

I ordered the camshaft position sensor to start. That is the code that was picked up.

IF that doesn't work, it will be odd but then switch gears and replace the crankshaft position sensor as well. But if that happens, then I will need to get off the tookus and pull the front end off to replace the radiator, sensor, thermostat, trans mount, hoses etc etc. All in then... Might as well while I'm in there!!!

Should be fun. Always is... But that should give me a clean bill of health for the parts that go around and this timeframe.

 

Cool! Let me know how you make out with the sensor. Hopefully its a quick fix for you.

Is the CAM sensor the one on the left side of the valve cover or the front of the engine?

 

Camshaft sensor is on the passenger side (on top; cylinder head) nearest the cam. The crankshaft is in front (down low) and attached to the block to monitor the crank.

I really hope its the camshaft and not the crankshaft sensor. I've read a few posts that have caused concerned. But that is the code that is currently being thrown. (worst case is I go get the crankshaft sensor in front and replace that as well) There is just not a whole lot of info on these sensors and only a handful of remove this, remove that and then replace it all. So I will try and go through it with pics again. I like doing that in case I ever have to go back through something... I will know what and how I did it! hehe

Definitely, I will follow up with my results just to increase the knowledge pool/sharing.

Barnaby still running well? It was a little touch and go there for a while. Glad he is back to motoring.

 

Hope its an easy fix for you too. Thanks for letting us know. This forum has helped so much because of the pool of knowledge like you mentioned.

Yea Barnaby seems to be hanging in there. I was taken for an emotional ride from the dealer thats for sure. Saying its time to get rid of the car because the engine may be blown is crazy. I bought some coolant and $88.00 worth of parts from ECS and its good to go again. Knock on wood he has been driving well since. Its a little hot here (over 100+ degrees) so I have been worried but coolant system is working great. Life is good!

 

Agreed. I hope! haha Agreed as well with the forum. Saved myself a ton of headaches and money with the forums.

Why does that not surprise me with the dealer scaring the he** out of you... Last time I went to the dealer here, I told them I think the coil pack went south on terminal 3... After their "testing", they told me that it was the cylinder head that needed to be replaced. I asked for them to check the coil and they said they did. Thinking about it all day before picking him up, I received a call from the adviser telling me he has "great news!" The HEAD mechanic put on a new coil pack and the car is running great!

 

Yea thats just crazy how nuts these dealers are. Now my girlfriend thinks we cant drive the car anywhere and I am a little nervous with this car too. I just want to bring it somewhere and have them go through the whole thing so I can make it road trip ready again. I might just be parinoid now too though. But this mini doesnt have a good long distance road trip record lol

 

Agreed. I went to Amazon and bought myself a OBDII scanner so I can start figuring out what codes are being thrown on my cars in the future. Kind of help filters what I can do or when I have to take the car to the shop.

Yes, your confidence can take a hit... only time and mileage will build that back up for you.



I have been experiencing some odd things but was unable to put a finger on what it was… I was experiencing the following:

- Rough start/idle until warmed up which generated a sound that appeared to be valve train related (to me)
- There was a metallic flutter/valvetrain sound at idle (warm) up to 1500-1800rpm and then it disappears. Not the diesel sound emitted from a going belt tensioner but in the ballpark of that sound.
- Apparent loss of power in the higher rpm range of each gear
- (Recently) the DSC light would be triggered and stay on, until the MINI is shut down. Light is reset and off until triggered again.
- (Recently) The ‘Check Engine Soon’ light came on but the MINI appeared to be running fine.

Threw him on the scanner and picked up code P0340 – Camshaft Position Sensor.

I cleared the code and waited to see how long it took before it came back on. That was the same day or about 12 miles later. Here is your sign! Hehe So not knowing or wanting to screw things up, we parked him for a few days and the wife took the Ody to work and I took the CRX to work. Nice having three cars for that reason.

So I went ahead and ordered a replacement part from a local dealership and it arrived is $82 flat.



Let the fun begin!

Safety first. I felt compelled to jack him into the air so that I could sneak the jack underneath the motor to support it while I remove the engine bracket.



Bay shot



Coming around the side and focusing on the passenger side



Focusing on the camshaft position sensor





You have to remove the passenger side engine bracket. This consists of 4 main bolts that secure the bracket to the engine, a single nut (18mm) securing the bracket to the passenger side mount and a little nut/bolt for the ground wire. This is the time to place the jack underneath the motor to support it for when the bracket is removed. I typically get the motor to lift a fraction of an inch to let me know it is in place.

Here are the front 2 main bracket to motor bolts. (16mm) An extension will serve you well.



Here are the 2 rear main bolts securing the bracket to the engine.



Bracket has been removed and now the old camshaft position sensor is visible.





The red piece is a ‘lock’ that needs to be slide one way or the other to unlock the sensor. Then push down on the tab and disconnect the sensor from the wiring harness.

 

Old camshaft position sensor removed with some oil on it.





Old sensor vs New sensor



Here is the location on the cylinder head where the sensor fits into to monitor the camshaft. The sensor was covered in oil so that tells me that after 113k miles, the o-ring was failing and I was leaking a small amount of oil.



Here is the red locking mechanism on the wiring harness. I don’t think I have seen a picture of this before so I thought I would post how is works to help someone out.

Locked:


Unlocked:


Here is a great pic of the old sensor depicting oil pre o-ring and post o-ring. Oil is clearly getting past the o-ring and then leaking out on the side of the motor… shameful!



While the engine bracket was out, I decided to clean it up so it is ready to get installed back under the bonnet…

 

New camshaft sensor installed. There is a single 10mm bolt that secures the sensor to the cylinder head. Does not need to be gorilla tight, just snug


Panning out with the new sensor installed


Wiring harness connected to the new installed sensor. Notice the red part on the wiring harness in the unlocked position.


Red slide on the harness slide over into the locked position


Once that is complete, its time to slide the engine bracket into place and around all of the hoses

Front two bolts securing the bracket to the motor


Two main rear bolts torqued securing the bracket to the engine




Align the motor so it sits on the engine mount. Torque the motor mount nut back down


Ground wire secured and you are done! Engine bay shot and everything buttoned back up

 

Dude! Thanks so much for posting the pics and tutorial believe it or not I just went into my closet and found the same exact new sensor sitting there waiting to be installed. So it looks like I will be doing the same really soon! Are you still having positive results from the install ? Also have you noticed any difference in the MPG with this new one?

 

Welcome!

Nice! I am a huge proponent for replacing this sensor ANYWAY. The amount of performance I got back was significant for me. I always felt that I was missing a little something at the top of each gear while in a "spirited" mood. The car seems to pull again as I climb in each gear. Definite difference for me.

I am around 132 miles post install and still have the positive result. No CEL to date so I believe that was the only issue I had and that is gone now. The sound/vibration from low rpms is still gone. I had a little left but looked at the air diverter (on top of the intercooler) and tightened one of the bolts down a little and now he is AS silent (no secondary vibrations or sounds) as silent gets. He is running really well.

Unfortunately, I did notice a difference in MPGs and it is negative. Im having fun with him at the moment. I am sure that will pass and I will settle down and get back to seeing how high I can get the MPG to go. hehe

 

Haha I guess the stomp on the pedal is to be expected if the car is feeling like new again! Glad to hear its still good to go! Keep us posted if anything changes and thanks again!

 

can be something very simple, it was happening to me when i had that code. it turned out just the valve cover gasket was leaking and oil ended up inside the plugs. Check if there any oil inside the spark plug tubes.

 

Ok thanks ill check it out. I don't believe there was any oil leaking but ill check

 

Arghhhh...the pics show the old 'click the image to open in full size'.
Im having similar issues with my r53. DSC and SES lights are on, poor idle, and hesitation. Ive thrown new plugs and wires at her, and ordered a new ignition coil. Could this sensor possibly be the culprit to my issue as well? I started a thread as well, but no responses so far.

 

Have you pulled any codes from your OBDII?

 

Also, for individuals needing location and info on the crankshaft sensor, we have published a new tech article on it here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm. It is located below the throttle body next to the bellhousing (red arrow shows its location).

 

I neglected to state that: The code that came up was P0302 (2cyl misfire)

 

Ordered a new ignition coil? As in not installed yet?

I had a misfire in cylinder 3 and it was the ignition coil. Remove the plug wire for #2 and I bet it is corroded. Should be a nice chrome color...

Like this...

 

Yup, UPS didnt leave it at the door...as stated in the 'special instructions' section. I wont receive it until Monday. Hopefully this fixes the issue, and clears the codes. Worst case scenario, from what Ive been reading, the problem may finally boil down to a valve issue or a DME on the fritz. Funny enough, the #3 post was a bit corroded, but not the #2 post.