I found the Factory 17x7 501 track wheel 21.59 lbs. cant find the 534 18x7 weight
NM Engineering RSe11 claims 20.59 lbs
O.Z. ultraleggera 19.2 lbs but states "Aggressive fitment. May require fender modification for proper clearance" WTF I ain't about to roll fenders but its so pretty.
Tires appear to run approx 19 to 20 lbs regardless of 17 or 18

 

They came on my 19 I.O. JCW. I have winter wheels on now. Going out to the garage to weigh a mounted wheel. I know the stock Dunlops are 20 lbs plus wheel weights and TPS sensor, BRB
OK Update all in 41.8 - 20(tire) prob 4 ozs for the sensor and there was a wheel weight marked "15" . the wheel weight was pretty small. Safe to say the wheel is 21 lbs

 

My NM RSe05 17x7.5 wheels are 17 pounds each.

 

Thanks folks!
Did you notice any steering changes with the NM RSe05 17x7.5 given the 40mm offset? That's over 1 inch (28mm) increase in the front track.

 

 

Only changes the "scrub radius" by ~.55 inches...so should not overly affect handling ect.

I have a set coming for my 2019 Mini Cooper S JCW I.O.E. and am going to put either 225/45/17 RE71Rs or 235/40/17 Faulken Azenis for AutoX. with Bilstien Coilovers...might need 5mm spacer with the Faulkens...wheels are on the way then I will decide on tires

Going to sell my 18x7 Black Night JCW Wheels that I have only used at three AutoX's in DS by this weekend (been running Bridgestone RE71Rs 215/40.18's with 5mm spacers...I run the stock JCW Run-flats on the IOE Gun Metal Wheels on the road

 

What do your 18x7 Black Night JCW wheels look like, are they black versions of the 534 double spoke wheel?

 

$800.00 for the wheels ….

 

I am calling out this advice here.

Lowering the car causes the triangle of the scrub radius to get WIDER. Putting on a 9mm lesser Offset would also make it wider. I would this person just added another 5+ mm to make it 14 or more to the scrub radius. There is no way on earth it handles better, unless Mini put wrong offsets from the beginning on their cars. It could FEEL as if it was better, as it pulls more in your hands and jerks around faster. That is due to the track being wrong and it feeling more engaging. LIke falling off a cliff onto rocks feels exciting too, just not the effect you might want.

There is no aftermarket wheel for this car. Unless you are dropping the knuckle 1.8 inches, the car will behave poorly on any bad street surface or bad weather, and also during emergency braking.

This car is a complete waste to a DIY or tuner type. There is no proper wheel for road use other than the 22 lbs blobs of the 17" oem.

 

This topic is incredibly important to me right now. I realize that making a small change is not going to destroy the Mini's drive-ability on the street, but of course we all want the optimal overall handling if possible. At the same time, A small loss of steering feel, in order to get a much nicer look, might be a perfectly acceptable trade-off for many people. Make that most people. We just don't want to go to positive scrub radius, and we REALLY don't want neutral, which is the worst possible result. - And no one has the specs for this.

The stock track width / scrub radius is "probably" best, but there are several things to keep in mind: ( read "to drive you crazy." )

1: It's been well-documented that Mini doesn't actual engineer-in the perfect S.R. And if you think about it, if they DID want to do this, they'd have to have different suspension components for each wheel diameter. If I had to guess, that guess would be the suspension is "ballpark" set up for 17" wheels, since AFAIK the typical Gen 3 Mini has anywhere between 16" and 18".

- But they also probably err on the side of "too much negative" SR, since neutral and positive are so bad for a FWD car. -So, for instance, going wider on a Mini with 16" wheels might actually improve everything.
(Heavy emphasis on the word "might" ! )

2: One has to more carefully define "handling." (Please add to this if I'm missing something important.)
I figure the main parameters are steering, cornering stability, and ride quality (bumps.) Maybe also how the driver aids respond.
Theoretically, going to a wider track width IMPROVES cornering stability, as does lowering the car. So maybe some folks find that to be an acceptable trade-off. I have no idea.

3: There is very little (basically zero) discussion or info online about how changing suspension components might help re-adjust the overall geometry. What little info exists is all about track use, which obviously has very different priorities to street use.

Replacement components exist for adding caster and camber adjustment (assuming the user or tech actually knows how to properly adjust them, and good luck with THAT.) And McPherson struts are said to be fairly compliant regarding SR changes. - But up to what point?
No one seems to understand all this stuff.

---------------------------

The problem is, no one really has the opportunity to drive two Minis that are identical except for the scrub radius. Making a change, then driving a day later and trying to remember how it felt before is beyond unreliable, as human memory is simply not that good, and psychological effects also take over.

And here in the USA, trying to find a tech who has actual experience in seriously modifying a Mini is nearly hopeless.
(In the UK, there seems to be one on every block!)

Ughhhh ......

 

oh man this was a lot of good points. I wonder if i can measure it this week when i get it. (assuming it arrives at the dealership in 1-2 days)

if you put it up on a lift, you cannot measure the scrub radius as the wheels will hang down. Has to be up on a cheap lift with wheels compressed lol.

 

Maybe you could put it on a good lift, then use a small jack on some boxes to raise one front wheel until it reaches normal level? (I guess you'd first have to measure something while the car is on the ground, since its own weight will partially compress things.)

This would be some major info if you could do it.

 

Vette, did you actually weigh them, or get that from somewhere. I aks because I've seen them listed elsewhere at 16.5 lbs. (And MiniMania says 18 lns, go figure.)
It's not a big enough difference to really matter, but as long as we're trying to make an "official" list ...

FWIW, here are some weights I've found, that should be correct: (some of these wheels would require hub rings due to a larger bore)

Neu RSe05 17x7.5 ET 40 & ET 45 -- 16.5 lbs (18, according to Mini Mania)

Advan TC-4 17x7.5 -- 16.5 lbs
Advan TC-4 17x8.0 -- 17 lbs
Advan TC-4 18x9.5 -- 19.4 lbs

ENKEI RACING RPF1 17x7.5 ET 48 -- 15.2 lbs
ENKEI RACING PF05 17x7.5 ET 48 -- 19.41 lbs
ENKEI RACING PF05 17x7.5 ET 45 -- 19.41 lbs
ENKEI RACING TFR 17x8.0 ET 45 -- 18 lbs

Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 17x7.5 -- 18 lbs
Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 17x9.0 -- 19.8 lbs
Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 18x8.0 -- 8.2 kg

SPARCO ASSETTO GARA 17X7.5 -- 25 lbs

Flow One F5 17x8.0 ET 45 -- 17.75 lbs


O.Z. Hyper GT 17x7.5 ET 41 -- 17.9 lbs
- said to clear the JCW brakes

O.Z. SUPER GT 17X7 4-100 ET40 -- 20.7 Lbs. - OZ claims 18.9 lbs
O.Z. SUPER GT 18X7 4-100 ET42 -- 23 Lbs
O.Z. Superlegerra (expensive) 17x7.0 -- 15.3 lbs

 

Hm! That is a very good idea. I could give a few beans to the repair guys. They do moonlighting work after work. They might be interested in this odd unknown as well.

It is amazing how little we know about the geometry of these cars that have been out for years. If i solve this, that would be sad. I am definitely not a mechanic in any manner. Just a thinker and observer. Maybe that's what is needed here.

I think the hardest part will be knowing:
1. where the contact patch is actually. That would be the center of that.
2. finding a true line from the top of the suspension tower downward. I am thinking of awkward ideas about how to visualize that. Looks crammed in there right?

 

I you REALLY wanted to know, I imagine you could calculate scrub radius with a little bit of trigonometry application... A precision alignment will tell you castor angles, toe angles, camber... You would need to figure out the actual angle of the strut body, which might prove a little more difficult. If you had an alignment tech friend that could get you the castor calculation angles would make it easier.

 

hm this is a good idea. I think i could find the distance from the edge of the body to the strut tower, and the distance from the edge of the body to the strut tower, to get the angle right? I assume the top of the strut tower is the center of the strut?

 

If you can get the car sitting level with weight on the tires, might be able to use one of those magnetic angle finders on the shock body...

 

That's a great idea! - And I have one of those.
You don't even need the car dead-level, just on a "flat" surface (parking lot, etc.) You'd then measure both sides and just average them.


Maybe I can do this myself. - But once we have that angle, how does that get us to the scrub radius?

BUT WAIT - Isn't the key measurement simply how much offset, in which case the actual angle doesn't really need to be measured? (I think this is the case.)

 

BTW, this whole discussion really should be on its own thread. El Jefe, if you get more data, maybe you could start one and transfer all the above info to it, before continuing?

 

Scrub radius is a function of offset and turning axis. You need the strut angle to figure out the turning axis intersection with the contact patch.

 

When i pick up the car this wednesday? (I hope i can with holidays, never know). I will begin the process of thinking of a plan of finding the king axis and contact patch and scrub radius then. I have to look at the bearings. Crap. I forgot to get the proper socket for this. shoot. Any know of the lug bolt size? I have a really nice ratchet head for my Porsche. plastic coated to protect the rim and fits deep.

 

Nice.


Keep us posted !

 

Team Dynamics ProRace 1.2 17x7.5 -- 18 lbs The New TD Pro Race LT 17x7 (no 17x7.5 yet) weighs 7.5kg 16.5lbs
Team Dynamics ProRace 1.2 17x9.0 -- 19.8 lbs
Team Dynamics ProRace 1.2 18x8.0 -- 8.2 kg The 18x8 TD PR LT weighs 18.4kg 18.5 lbs

The Pro Race LT are flow formed, where as the Pro Race 1.2 was just low pressure cast.