I change my wheels every spring and fall, to put on either my snow tires/wheels, or my summer tires/wheels.

I've noticed that this switchover would be much quicker and easier if there were studs there, instead of the OEM bolts.

I am considering this kit:
http://outmotoring.com/mini_cooper_s...rsion_kit.html

My questions are these:

1.) What should you torque these studs to? I would hope that the torque figures would come with the kit, but you never know!

2.) Should I use a threadlocker on the studs, and if so, which one, blue or the more permanent red?

PLEASE NOTE: I live in the northeast, where we get lots of snow, and consequently lots of nasty metal-eating salt on the roads each winter. I don't know if that influences your answers or not, but just thought I'd throw that into the mix.

Thanks!

 

My advice to you is to NOT use that kit. I installed a set on my car for the same reasons you want to. I used red loctite for a good hold. The studs have a allen socket on the ends & I used a L shaped 5mm allen to tighten them. I really couldn't put much torque on the studs but did the best I could. I had a not so funny feeling that a couple of the studs may have stripped when they were installed. Several months later & I pull the summer tires to install the snows. Well on 3 of the wheels studs backed out with the nuts on. A total of six studs & yes the ends that thread into the rotor were borked. Lucky for me the rotors were fine. My thinking is that the studs are not a very hard metal. I've kept a couple of studs to use when I mount the wheels. Screw one in & hang the wheel. Put 3 of the lug bolts in then remove the stud & put the last lug bolt in. It really makes it easier.

 

I've had a set on my 04 MINI for 2+ years with no issues. I got mine from Pilo Racing and Dan stands behind his products. I have rotated my wheels a lot of times and have never backed out a stud. I also torque them down at 85 foot lbs.

 

i have a set of helix ones that have backed out too... but it was my fault as i just changed to new wheels before an autox and didnt check my torque as i didn't have time

the whole unit flew out during a run... believe me.. the massive clunking noise wasn't too fun..

i loctited all of the studs, and so far its been about a year, no problem

 

One common problem with Loctiting studs is that most new studs come with shipping oil of sorts on them. Combine that with dirt or anti-seeze on the hub from the original bolt and you can Red Loctite all you want; it won't 'take'.

Please be certain to fully clean BOTH the new studs and hubs with a cleaner such as Accetone to fully remove any films that may prevent the retainer from doing its job.

One other trick is that if in doubt...you may want to 'stake' or bang up the last couple of thread on the stud with a chisel or punch. In this case when you roll the final turn or two into the hub you have an interference thread that was not there before. Won't take much but some 'damage' may be all you need.

 

Good points about cleaning everything first. I used brake clean so I don't believe that was my issue.

 

I think your issue was the little L-shaped Allen wrench, that should have just been tossed in the tool box in favor of the same size Allen bit in a 3/8" drive.

 

JMHO, but the Turner Motorsports or H&R studs are great... They cost a bit more, but they're made of really high quality stuff...

 

Thanks everyone. That helps.

 

Just curios, what are the benefits of bolts over studs? I know the studs are easier for changing tires, but why did they go with bolts?