Axxis Ultimates are the pads that Stoptech issues with their big brake kits; that's how I originally got turned onto them. Since then I've recommended them to lots of other people and have always gotten great reviews back on them. You don't need to replace the rotors, but as with any switch to a new pad compound, you definitely need to bed in the new pads.

I've used Mintex, Porterfield, Pagid, Ferodo, Carbotech, Hawk, EBC, and Axxis pads, and I think the Axxis Ultimates are the best for street use. Hawk HPS are a very good pad too.

 

Thanks for the much needed info. Now one more question...what is the difference between the Hawk HPS & Hawk Performance Ceramic brake pads. From the description I read on outmotoring.com & the ceramics sound better (but those are just words )

 

The ceramics are supposedly lower dusting, and cause less rotor wear. They are probably less likely to squeel when used on the street. (my general impression of them from reading way too many brake pad threads).

The HPS pads are supposed to have better bite (raw stopping ability), but they are almost a race pad, so they can squeel a bit when cold. (again, general web impressions)

I'm 4 days in on my Hawk HPS pads after switching from stock. I was thinking about switching back to the stock pads after the Dragon, but I'm not sure that I can... I love these things. I can notice a bit more stopping power, but it's the consistent nature of the pads that I really love... the first stop feels just like the fifth, which is something I couldn't say for my stock pads.

 

The ceramics are a straight street pad. The HPS are a street/autocross pad. I wouldn't call them a track pad, no matter what Hawk says (unless you're talking about parade laps ) For dusting and noise = ceramics. For stopping power = HPS.

 

Ok I think I will give the Hawk HPS a try when my time comes. I assume they still produce more dust than the EBC or Hawk ceramic but much less dust than the OEM pads?

 

My EBC Greens have lasted a good 75-80K. Moslty highway, but did manage a few track laps--several of which at very brisk pace by a driving instructor showing someone else the lines at blackhawk (I was giddy in the back seat tho).

I like the greens enough to buy again. But my next set will probably be Hawk ceranmics, just to try something else. I don't attack the street hard enough to warrant a track capable pad.

 

No discussion of Ferodo's. Why or why not? I have been impressed by Hawks in the past, but it seems many of the MINI aftermarket websites push the EBCs, Hawks and Ferodos. Just wondering about the alternatives -- but the Ferodos sure cost a bunch more. Any comments from people who have used them would be appreciated. My goals are:

1. Cold stopping (e.g., street not track)
2. Noise (they're gonna squeal, so ok)
3. Dust (ok, maybe this should be #2)

Thanks for your comments.

 

That is INCREDIBLE pad life. Is that for the fronts?

 

This is gonna sound kinda stupid... but here goes. Have you considered just replacing them with new OE pads. These are pad compounds that have undergone rigorous testing, specifically for this vehicle. These pads are going to pass all of the FMVSS tests, all the OE tests, and all of the brake manufacturer's tests. they may dust a bit, OK...a lot, but they are quiet and perform under a multitude of conditions; they are tuned for noise and vibration issues. many engineers spent many years getting them right. I'm not dissing any AM pads, just pointing out the "good" qualities of OE pads.

 

I see where you are coming from and you make very valid points, especially if you are just using the MINI for driving around town, however:

I think that the reason many MINI drivers choose to upgrade is that the Stock MCS brakes are one of the cars largest downfalls. They are probably just fine for the MC, but the MCS really could use a much better braking (even when reading reviews of the car, this is where it gets into trouble). I personally own an Integra Type R and my wife has a MCS. Going from the ITR to the MCS, the braking feels very weak on the MINI. The Bite is not there and they fade quite easily, whereas the ITR has incredible stock brakes, possibly some of the best brakes ever put on such a small car (Maybe even overkill, but I friggin' love good brakes).

Personally, I will upgrade whenever the time comes that out MCS uses up the stock pads, in fact I look forward to that day.

 

Hallelujah! Amen! Or whatever... the anchors can't be strong enough.

 

Agreed. The Stoptechs are by far my favorite mod on the car.

There's a great measure of satisfaction from watching the guy in front of you brake at the 4 marker and you hold out until 2.

 

I'm not saying don't upgrade the brakes, however...pads alone WILL NOT dramatically affect your stopping distances. they may affect feel, fade, cold/hot performance...as in continued similar stopping distances, but they won't decrease them. I have the JCW brakes, so far my only mod, and I have noticed the increased stopping power, in fact I had a hard time getting used to the initial change in cold bite; but there is a difference between using new calipers with an increased effective radius, increased pad area, and increased thermal mass(bigger rotor), as well as being a collette 2, instead of a collette 1 style caliper; as opposed to just increasing the coefficient of friction in your pads and reducing the dust.

 

<----Jealous of your JCW brakes on the MINI.

I definitely can't argue that a brake component upgrade will yield much larger differences than pads and fluid alone

This forum is great

 

Hello DeadPirateTim,

Here is info regarding the Ferodo Pads,

Ferodo is the pad manufacturer for the Brembo big brake kits,

So if ferodo is the pad of choice for a F40 or F50 Ferrari.

I think that is probaly (good enough) or probably the best pad for a mini

Victor

 

None of these changes will dramiticly effect your stopping distance. Enhance them yes, shorten them? A bit perhaps. Most change the rotor torque values, pedal feel and feedback and thermal efficiency of the brake system. Ultimately as some will be quick to point out; the grip of the tire to the road is your true stopping limit.

I can tell you however that a pad change in Cf will alter rotor tq as will rotor diameter as was stated. Sometimes a pad change can have a great effect all things being equal. Go from 'street' to 'race' pads may produce far more bite than perhaps 1" of rotor diameter and no pad change.

Want to play with this and see what you find with the data?
Go to the TCE site and in the 'Toolbox' open the brake bias calculator. Populate a pad change even in the default model and watch the rotor tqu change. Then leave the pad Cf alone and increase the rotor OD. Then try both, whatever floats your boat!

 

One of the friction manufactures.

Alex

 

I should have said,

Brembo uses Ferodo coumpoud for their pads

Victor

 

I need low dust and no squeal with the chrome wheels. What are the chances of the EBC Greens squealing?

 

In general, the more agressive the pad, the more likely you are to experience squealing. I would think that the EBC would be a good fit for a daily driver that might see the occasional track day. Be sure to lube the metal-to-metal contact points when you do the install (they make anti-squeal lube, generally w/ copper in it for some reason) to reduce the possibility of squealing (I went to the BMW parts counter and asked for plasti-lube).

Don't let that stuff get on the friction surface of your pads (the face that touches the rotors).

 

Thanks for that. Turns out I'll need rotors also. No racing, but thought I might get a slightly better rotor/pad setup for replacement.

 

There are a lot of opinions on rotors, but (thankfully) not as many as pads as there are fewer options.

For high-speed (100+ MPH) quick braking, slotted and drilled rotors will aid in shortening the stopping distance, giving gasses and dust somewhere to go so they don't build up between the friction surfaces of the pad and rotor and impede braking ability. Crossdrilling, however, can cause weak points in a rotor and slotting can cause pads to wear more quickly.

For our little cars, I never thought that drilled and or slotted were necessary. If I had the extra cash, I might have gone slotted only to get that bit more stopping power, but the odds are that I'll never even use 'em... I'm just not on the track that often. Even guys who go on the track frequently (like Randy Webb's track car) just do better fluid, better pads and maybe stronger brake lines for feel. The stock rotors are perfect for 99.9% of our driving... even here on NAM.

I was thinking of going deeper into the world of brake mods, but if pads and fluids are good enough for Randy on the track, it's good for me while I shuttle to work and the grocery store.

 

Brake pad life is a funny subject. There are so many variables that I'd wager a bet that no pad will last the same amount of time as any previous or future pad. For instance, I had a set of brake pads last 50,000 miles of lowland driving in a Toyota 4Runner. The same vehicle, with replacement pads of the same size and make went through a set in only 10,000 miles when I moved to a mountainous area. After returning to the lowlands, the next set went 35,000+ miles and were still ok when I sold the car. Go figure.

My MINI pads and rotors have lasted 46,000 miles to date including some auto-x and aggressive driving. I'll admit I am easy on my brakes as I prefer to use engine braking while on driving normally. Still, these brakes are doing fine, and are not in need of replacement yet.

How many more miles?

 

I rarely get some squeal but when I do, I just jump on the brakes hard from about 40 mph and squeal is gone.

 

I've had EBC Greens for about 25K miles on my 03 MCS. Brake dust reduction was not noticable -- still give off plenty of dust (esp on my white rims). Also, I had about 12K miles of low speed squealing to put up with, too. Not fun. Not a real big endorser of the Greens now, obviously. I am looking for replacements, tho, but I want ones that have low dust output, don't squeal and have slots for the rear wear sensors. Suggestions? Thanks.