I would like to get answers to a couple of questions concerning brake fluid replacement. I have a 2005 bone stock MC that is 17 months old. The owners manual recommends replacing the brake fluid at 24 months. I am going to attend the Phil Wicks MINI Driving School at Sebring April 2nd. I want to change the brake fluid and while at it upgrade to ATE Blue. I don't race or autocross but am going to the driving school and make a couple of trips to the Dragon a year. My questions are (1) Does ATE Blue have the equivalent additives for corrosion resistance, etc. that regular brake fluids have? I thought that since racers change their fluid often they don't have to worry about corrosion , etc. in the system and therefore 'racing fluids' would not have these additives. (2) When flushing the system how do you account for the ABS? Or is that not a problem?

Ben

 

Not being entirely familiar with ATE Blue I cannot offer specifics on chemical makeup, but in general most brake fluids by nature do not have much in the way of an additive package to prevent corrosion. Unlike antifreeze, for example, where an additive set is included to stop the inherent corrosion from galvanic and oxidation effects from the water, the primary elements of brake fluid do not react with the various metals of a brake system in that manner. Brake system corrosion comes from the natural affinity of brake fluid to absorb water from the atmosphere, and it's the absorbed water that wreaks the havoc on the components as well as causes the breakdown of the fluid itself over time. Absorbed water is what causes cavitation of the fluid (boiling) at reduced temps that causes brake fade and spongy pedal feel, for example.

As for the bleeding process, the tech will use their diagnostic computer to place the ABS valving into a 'bleed mode' that allows fluid to pass through the ABS pump and valves during the actual bleeding. Since most of us dont have access to such equipment, you can do a pretty decent job by replacing the fluid and bleeding normally, then take the car for a couple quick stops that fully engage the ABS then bleed the system a bit more. Doing this will move the new fluid into the ABS pump and distribute the older fluid into the lines. A quick rebleeding (but not an entire fluid exchange this time) is usually sufficient. Dont forget to bleed the clutch slave cylinder as well during your fluid change, since it uses the same fluid and reservoir as the brakes.

 

You have excelent advice from "greatbear".
Just so that it is said ... ATE has fluid in different colors. I rotate back and forth between BLUE and AMBER. It is the unique color that helps in determining when the flush is good.

 

Higher performance brake fluid will do the most for you to preveny brake fade (outside a BBK), but definately the best first step and pretty easy to do.

As long as you don't drain the reservoir and get air into the system you will be ok and this is easy to avoid. Check webbmotorsports.com for detailed instructions, but basically use a syringe to dran the existing fluid, add new fluid and start pumping out the old stuff as per instructions and keep topping up the reservoir. If you go with a fluid that is a different colour (i swap between ATE and Motul) you'll see when the new stuff is in the line.. you'll also feel the difference if you really cooked the old stuff. I did a couple track days between changing and it was like syrup.

good luck!

phil.

 

As you probably already know, the brake fluid change at 24 months is free at the dealer. They'll also change your pads for free if you need them in the first three years or 36,000 miles. If they see the blue brake fluid, they might deny you these services. If you have any clutch problems that might also be an issue with them. Not all dealers are the same, but I'd check with yours before you make any decisions.

 

Thanks to all ya'll, Greatbear, bpago, Element and Greg67. I didn't know that the fluid would be changed under warranty at 24 months. That might change my mind on what to do. Also the possible problem with the dealer because of not using "factory approved" fluid must be looked into. Thanks again,
Ben