hi,

I have replaced front and rear pads and discs also front calipers. Tried to bleed the brake system according to newtis, 1.7bar pressure on the fluid cap, rear right left front right left bleeding. Brakes are slowing the car down, but the braking starts from after 2/3 of the pedal travel, before that there is little to no braking force. If I try to pump the brake while the car is off, pedal gets hard after ~2 presses and stays hard.

I have no clue how differently I should have done the bleeding.

Thanks for your advise!

 

Did you keep the master cylinder reservoir full of fluid? Sounds like you might have introduced air into the system.

 

How is that possible? It was topped up before beginning the bleed also topped it up after. Do I need to remove the pressurized cap after bleeding each wheel and top up with fluid 4 times?

 

If this is something you are going to do periodically (such as flushing the brake lines every 2 years), consider investing in the Schwaben Pressure Bleeder. It's not very expensive and it make the job easy even if doing it solo.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../007237sch01a/

 

Do you need to have 20psi pressure of air (from compressor for example) for bleeding or you need to have 20 psi brake fluid input?

 

Ideally, that's how you would do it. If you bled new fluid through all the lines, you very likely introduced air into them. The amount of fluid in the reservoir is not enough to go through the whole system.

 

When using the bleeder, get as much old fluid as possible out of the reservoir with a turkey baster. Then refill the reservoir. Pour the remaining fluid in the bleeder. Pump the bleeder to about 14psi and bleed each line in the order you specified in your earlier post. You will need to pump the bleeder a couple of times to keep the pressure up. When done, check the fluid level in the reservoir. It takes longer to take the wheels off than to bleed all of the lines.

 

I had posted last month on this issue. I got mixed responses. I did one flush with our shop brake machine. ( I work at a Porsche dealer). Soft pedal same as you. We have an old BMW ISTA computer and did another flush but cycling through the DSC module for each wheel and got my firm brake back.

 

can someone explain what this means?

 

Its done with a Foxwell NT530 to cycle the ABS while bleeding

 

Is this required for bleeding brakes on these cars?

 

I did mine without (didn’t have a Foxwell at the time) and have suffered no issues. But next time I’m using the Foxwell.

 

That sounds like a possible vacuum booster issue...

 

Hi - I saw you just joined and mentioned you have an R53. This thread is listed in F56 brake bleeding.

On your question - we need a little more diagnostics. Want to find out if the rushing air is caused by slowing down or by the brakes activating. I don't know the 1st gen at all, but can you slow the car down with the ebrake ? Does it do it in reverse. I am thinking it is more a wind tunnel effect caused by something, vs your brakes. But again - not to sure. Can you isolate the location of the sound more ( front, back ).