Are Slotted and Drilled rotors the "High performance" set up or is that just the "High Performance Bling" setup?

I don't see many (if any) professional racing teams (f1, nascar, grand am, le mans) running any slotted and drillled rotors.

F1 teams have the carbon fiber bling factor however but they also run 13 in wheels...which also probably cost twice as my mini just for one corner.

I guess my vote would be better pads, brake fluid, ss braided lines with stock vented rotors...and brake cooling ducts.

 

HPB

For the harder use applications where heat and stress are greater you'd be better served (longer life) by the simple slotted only rotor.

 

Some info and discussion in dept are in this Solid vs Slotted vs Cross drilled rotors thread.

 

It is amazing from the poll how many people want slotted discs on there cars.

more pistons with a larger overall area would be my choice...a larger disc too but i don't want larger wheels.

 

All,
I posted this response a few days ago on the Porsche 944 list...

Very generally speaking, Cross-drilling does not reduce the heat or increase ventilation in the rotors, it reduces thermal mass (bad ) and unsprung weight (good ).

During racing or track event, braking heat is put back into the hubs, eventually leading to premature bearing failure,
'pinned' or floating rotors are used to isolate the thermal mass (assuming the racing class allows this)...
Generally speaking repalcing a floating rotor is less expensive than stock units which go over the hub.
There is a very real drawback to floating rotors on street-cars... they are noisey!

Gas slots work very well at keeping the boundry layer of gas from building up when pads are over-temped.
(BTDT, Turn 1, Summit Point it was a hot august day, last run of the event, I went 'over the hills' 'to grandmothers' house'... thankfully, obly my pride was hurt.)
They also work well as wear indicators.

WRT to cross-drilled rotors, Porsche CASTS the holes into the rotors, and does not machine (drill) them after the fact...
This is done to minimize the internal stresses machining imparts. One of the theories is that the machined cross-drill holes have microscopic imperfections, which then become stress-concentrators and cracks begin at those points. (This is one of the issues that brought the Titanic down)

One other *VERY* important thing to note about cross-drilled rotors after the fact, its very easy to drill the cooling vane, which is very, VERY BAD, as it will unbalance the rotor and remove support.
The hole pattern must also be such that the pads wear evenly.

Also remember, that as the rotor wears, if the holes are not done correctly, then you can chew through pads at an enormously fast rate (think cheese grater)


I hope this helps.

 

Here we go again....I got my money and someone else's up to about $450 so far to prove Porsche rotors have holes cast into them. I'm confident in saying "bunk" and after many years of research, both in the industry and out, I can say with little reservation it's a long standing, and continuing, internet rumor. Even their own literature online now states the use of "cross drilled rotors". But if someone wants to take my money on this I'm up for the challenge!


That comment aside much of the info here is very good. The only minor correction I'd offer is the purpose of a floating rotor. The design is intended to allow the rotor to grow and expand without being limited to direct interface of the hat by fixed hardware. The rotor will grow from the heat and when it's on bobbins, pins, buttons, t-slots etc making it more stable in expansion and contraction. It's also more tolerant of run out this way. But yes in due time even the "buffered" ones will rattle.

 

If the grains are cut near the holes it is machined, if the grains are smooth and flow around the holed it was cast. Just cut open a Porsche disc through the hole. the grains flowing is what make forged and cast parts stronger then machined parts.

Also on the other poster, floating discs also are neccicary whenever non floating calipers are uses. The expansion and compensation for pad where has to come from something, so either the disc or the caliper has to float. IF both disc and calipers are non floating, like some race cars,go carts then the system needs be shimmed constantly to make sure the pads mate with the disc, no feasible for road cars.

 

I thought it was an Iceberg.

 

You mean like a chamfer: that's done with a cutter tool. I do them here when I have too.

The cast in holes do not exist. And I've money on the table to prove me wrong.

Porsche rotors; you mean the ones that are "cross drilled":
http://www.porsche.com/usa/models/bo...s/?gtabindex=4
Don't need to cut one open. Click ventilated disc brakes.

 

http://www.mech.uwa.edu.au/unit/MECH...garmo_17-5.jpg

no like this.


Item A is machined product.

Item B is Cast of forged.

 

Ok, I'm down with that. But it's still not a rotor with a hole in it.

 

Todd....

Any news on Ceramic rotors becoming available at an "affordable" price yet. I've been reading about these StarBlade rotors for some bikes and was wondering if there are automotive applications yet.

 

Certainly not from me guys. I believe Stoptech had done some work on a ceramic or carbon design last year but I suspect it met a "great idea, but not for me" result due to cost.

I'm in for iron now and for the long haul. Affordable, effective and easy to work with for fit. MINI is a great car but "super-car" ranks.....? I'm not feelin' it.

 

I'll stick with the slotted rotors. My understanding is that they can withstand the abuse of track and Auto-X without the problem cracking that is experienced with drilled rotors.

I am with the others that are looking for improvement in performance and not bling. So I would also be looking for aluminium 4 piston calipers for the front and slightly oversized rotors with aliminium hats for the front and rear. I would like to keep my 16" wheels and still be able to fit my 15" holies in the winter.

Wilwoods are looking pretty good.

 

I've been using Todd's brake kit for 2+ years now. On the track the MINI brakes just aren't up to par and need help. Don't waste money on rotors and hotter pads like it did. If you're gonna track your car you need to get a big brake kit. I spent hundreds of $ on trying to get my stock brakes up to par with cooling, rotors and hotter pads. It was all just a sideline effort at what i should have done from the start. MINI rotors are small and need more mass so that heat has somewhere to go. The BBK aluminum hats do a great job at keeping the heat away from your wheel bearings. I'm on my third motor but still have the same wheel bearings (knock on wood). My local euro shop warned me about trying to upgrade my pads and rotors. I should have listened. I tried the cheap route and spent more.

Here is my synopsis:

if you track your car(track, not auto-X) 2 times a year or less, just use hotter pads on the track and put the stocks back on when you're done.

If you really plan on doing track events push your car to the limit and see what your brakes can take. then and only then consider the BBK up grade.

If you're a hard street driver and really push your brakes to the limit your fooling yourself and the stock brakes are fine. get blingy rotors if it makes you feel better.

p.s. there is no such thing as a street/track pad.

 

I have non-floating rotors and calipers. They have never been shimmed and, i have NINJA stopping power. The first time i tracked the BBK I thought the windshield was going to come out.

 

Talk to Danny at Minicorsa.

 

+1
that would be the best option but in this scenario above i guess it's a toss between bigger plain rotor and a slotted one.

 

Except that "larger ones" means somehow you have to find a caliper that fits. Or use some sort of relocation bracket. You cannot fit an 11" rotor on a 10" caliper mount.

 

another guy here who went with pads, lines, and fluid. i track it once or twice a year, autocross 2-3 times a year, and it's my daily driver....so i went with carbotech bobcats, which worked well in similar situations in my wrx. so why not have a "change pads" option?....i suspect it's what most are doing.

 

I think if you only do a few events a year that's a good option. When you're doing 2 or 3 a month is when you need the upgrade.

 

13" tce wilwood kit front 11.75 rear sloted only

 

Starfire, the company that makes the Starblade rotor is in fact working on rotors that can be used on automobiles.

 

I just received the Carbotech Bobcats via UPS an hour ago and the Texas SpeedWerks (TSW) slotted rotors last week. I'll be installing them this Saturday with my co-worker who'll show me the ropes of brake rotor/pad installs. He's done hundreds. Sure beats paying the dealer $125.00 an hour!
I can't wait to see if I have improved stopping ability. I'll take pics as we go through the process. I do not track the MINI or AutoX her... strictly a daily commuter (~100 miles per day). I love it.
The main reason I went with aftermarket is the claim by Carbotech of 2 to 4 times less wear than OEM equipment... hmm, I've gotten 76,600 miles on my '05 S with the original set of rotors and pads. I wonder if I'll go 200,000+ more miles on the new set? lol, if my baby lasts that long. I'll try.
Dustin from www.autoxcooper.com clued me in on this set. Thanks.

 

I prefer the stock rotors, and when they need replacing I will replace with and continue to run stock, but have and will continue to upgrade pads to the ceramics for their low dust property, as this is the most important attribute for my needs.