Thanks, Alex!

 

If you have hot rotors and park them with the hand brake on, your rotors are now cooling at a substantially different rate -- the exposed areas are cooling a lot faster than the surface with the brake pads clamped on them.

I've never actually met anybody that this has happened to, but every autocross I've been to somebody talks about somebody they know who put their hand brake on after a run with really hot rotors and the pads siezed onto the rotors themselves!

Also, forgive the stupid question, was everybody kidding? Aftermarket pads void some part of the warranty?

 

Got EBCs awaiting installation...24K on my car, only brake problem is DUST...

do I need to put new rotors on when I install the new pads now? EBC pads ok with stock rotors? (don't race, just drive spiritedly)..if not, whats recommended?

 

>>Why does parking a car with hot rotors cause them to warp? I could understand hitting a puddle with relly hot rotors but just letting them sit and cool?

Rotors very hot, come to stop, pads insulate the heat in one location causing the rotor to cool uneavenly, thus causing rotor warp. As far I have been explained.

 

>>>>Why does parking a car with hot rotors cause them to warp? I could understand hitting a puddle with relly hot rotors but just letting them sit and cool?
>>
>>Rotors very hot, come to stop, pads insulate the heat in one location causing the rotor to cool uneavenly, thus causing rotor warp. As far I have been explained.

That makes perfect sense, thanks.
:smile:

 

Truth is stranger than fiction...I work for a company that makes auto seats...One of my favorite specifications is from GM and it says something about neither the foam nor fabric must be capable of retaining odor, including flatulence.

Just this week I discovered a test that calls for the application of SAE specification DUST...

DREW

 

Can anybody provide some specifics on "bedding in" the EBC Green pads? I seem to recall reading somewhere that due to their alternative composition, that standard bedding in procedures would likely destroy the EBC Greens.

 

I used the bedding procedures as stated by Ferodo. (I have Ferodo pads for the track and EBC Greens for the street.) Done this on a few cars with EBC's.

It was basically intuitive. Drive the car at moderate speeds with the brakes dragging a bit to scuff them up and start the bed-in. Then make a few stops at 50% brake potential from 30-40mph. (Apply firmly but not slamming) Then raise the speed and apply a dozen stops with firmer pressure. You can do this within 15 minutes. You are done.

Now when I switch from EBC to Ferodo (or back again) pads I simply install and run the pads on the street for a day with no bed in procedures at all and they are track ready or street ready.

Brad

 

As to the warrenty issue, I warped the front rotors (parked when hot ) and the dealer wouldn't cover that due to the EBC pads. The green color is a dead give away. I now am careful to cool the rotors before parking. I am close to changing to Ferodo pads due to brake fade with the EBC greens. I also will change the brake fluid at that time. Last time out I was going down hill on a very twisty road and had the brakes go out due to heat. Very scary when you aren't expecting it. Time for another upgrade.

 

Greenstuff front and rear. Just wire-tied the sensors up out of the way. Smoked these suckers a couple of times. Drove a while to let everything cool. Rotors etc. all seem ok.

 

Alex, please add me to the list. Thanks!

 

Sure, Give me a call!

 

Why not upgrade the brake fluid to a high temp first, then move onto the Ferodo's???? This might solve your problem.

 

Does better fluid help with fade?

 

The simple answer is yes, but, I am no brake expert and don't play one on TV, but here is what I have learned and been able to deduce and a rather simple explaination.

The "better" fluid has a higher boiling point and will not retain moisture (water) as easily as a lower temp fluid does. What happens to water when it boils, makes steam and steam is air. So now you have an air bubble in the brake line. Next question, does the fluid compress, usually no, does air compress, yes. So now when you stomp on the brake pedal, you have something in the brake line that compresses, so the pedal travels further and you don't have that warm and fuzzy feeling that you normally have when your car stops.

I believe that answers your question in a round about way.

If any part of the above is incorrect PLEASE jump in and correct it. BRAKES are not to be taken lightly.

As part of the reqular PM schedule for your MINI, the brake system is supposed to be flushed every two years. Two years from date of manufacture and NOT DATE OF SALE.:smile:

 

All of that makes sense. How does water get in the closed brake system?

 

Brake fluid absorbs water and moisture as often as it can. Thats just a function of hydrolic fluid. Thats why its recomeded to change fluid every 24 months.

Alex

 

Still don't get it. The system is closed without venting to the atmosphere etc. How does moisture get in there? I've been call thick-skulled before!

 

There is NO WAY you can warp front rotors by parking hot brakes with pulling the park-brake. THINK ABOUT IT!

 

This is one that someone more qualified than myself will have to answer. :smile:

 

mini-b: I don't see where the earlier post said using hand brake with hot rotors would warp the front rotors just, that it will warp the rotors. Obviously, if all 4 rotors are hot (real hot, not from everyday day type driving more like after an autox run or hot laps) using the hand brake will put pressure on the rear rotors. However, if you didn't let the front rotors cool a little, they can warp from just the hot pads not allowing the rotor to cool evenly. Its always best that, after a spirited drive, drive slow for a period of time to let the rotors cool before parking, hand brake or no hand brake.

 

Well, I just assumed "parked" ment using the hand brake. Oops..my bad.

On the other subject, I would estimate that using a higher temp fluid is a good thing for someone that drives hard seeing many motorcycle write-ups that touch on the subject of "boiling" the stock fluid.

 

I switched to performance brake fluid when I installed my EBC pads and Stainless Brake Lines. Always go with a H/P brake fluid, even for spirited street driving.

 

I trust you guys' opinions and am fixin' to change my fluid. Out of curiosity I still don't understand the absorbing water thing in a closed system. How does it get there? The main thing with performance fluid is higher boiling point, correct?

 

Tom,

I will do a little research today and get back to you on this. This also perplexes me. I will get back to you. :smile: