What is the proper torque spec for the lugs?

 

Do you have 12mm or 14mm lug bolts? It makes a difference.

 

For any MINI built after mid-July 2006, you'll have the newer 14mm lug bolts, and the proper torque spec is 103 lbf-ft. For the earlier 12mm bolts, it's 88 lbf-ft.

 

103 ft-lbs ---> Thanks, I have the 17mm nut (14mm thread)

 

103 ft-lbs sounds awful high for a M14 bolt. The 17mm torque stick that the dealer uses to tighten your lugs when you have the car in for service is calibrated for 80 ft-lbs. Every other car with that size lug has a factory spec of 78-88 ft-lbs. What's your source for that information?

EDIT: Those nylon sockets are nice to have, but if you're looking for a quick fix that works, give your 17mm impact socket one go-around with electrical tape and that will work just fine at protecting your alloys.

 

That spec is from the owner's manual. Part of the reason for the higher torque is the 1.25mm thread pitch on the bolts. Just about every other M14 lug bolt on the market uses a 1.5mm thread.

If the dealer's only tightening the bolts to 80 lbf-ft, they're under-tightening them. 80 lbf-ft might have been okay with the old 12mm x 1.5mm bolts, where the spec was 88 lbf-ft, but not for the newer bolts.

 

Torque sticks are not to be used for the final torque. They are not very accurate. A torque wrench is need to for the final torque.

4cfed4, if your dealer is using an 80 ft lb torque stick on your wheels with no final torque down with a torque wrench to proper spec you had better check your lugs asap. It's hard to believe they are that stupid, but you never know.

 

I must be the only one that uses an impact gun and never uses a torque wrench on my lugnuts.

Mark

 

I always use my 1/2" impact wrench for removing lug nuts/bolts, and I'll use my 3/8" air ratchet to install the nuts/bolts, followed by a torque wrench for the final tightening, since I know I'll never over-tighten the bolts with the 3/8".

But I'd never use an impact wrench for the final tightening - personally, I've just seen too many cases of cracked hubs, damaged alloy wheels, and bolts that have had the threads wiped clean off by over-tightening.

On the other hand, if it's worked for you for this long, you're obviously doing it right.

 

Mark, lots of people ignore torque specs. Your car your choice. If it works for you go with it.

 

After reading the lawyer's comment on the "tailpipe service bulletin" thread, I'm not sure that telling the world online that you don't torque your lug bolts is a good idea. Unlikely that would ever cause an accident, but if so, you are apparently on record as being knowingly negligent.

 

I think MINI has their own problems in that department. Even though the 12mm -> 14mm lug bolt switchover happened in mid-2006, the 2006 owner's manuals were never updated with the new torque spec (which is 15-20% higher). My 2006 manual lists 88 lbf-ft for the torque spec, even though my car came with the new larger bolts.

Of course, the coupe transitioned to the R56 for the 2007 model year, and when they re-wrote the entire owner's manual, MINI updated the torque spec. But for the convertible, I believe even the 2007 owner's manual still listed the incorrect torque spec. I think MINI finally updated the spec in the 2008 convertible manual - about 18 months after the bolt switchover occurred.

 

Must not be a very big risk factor in that case. If MINI were worried about the omission, I think they'd have sent a letter to owners notifying them of the change.

 

If you think the dealer is tightening each and every one of your lugs with a dial-type torque wrench, you're a bit of an optimist. I've worked at several BMW/Mini dealerships, as well as other auto repair shops. Standard procedure is using the 17mm red torque stick, which tightens to 80 ft-lbs +/- 5 ft.lbs, then doing a final check with a present 80 ft-lb wrench. The BMW dealer did not have a 100 ft-lb wrench, but I did use one at the general auto repair place, when it was needed for higher torque applications. Truth be told, there is not that much difference between 80-100 ft-lbs, neither is going to be so much that it warps a rotor, or so little that you risk having your lugs come loose.

 

I have to agree with you here. No flat rate mechanic that I know would ever use a torque wrench on lug nuts. That is why when my car comes back from a trip to the dealer that has entailed removing a wheel, I re-torque them at home.

 

I bought the set from Harbor Freight yesterday. I am not using an impact wrench, it should work fine with a regular 1/4 ratchet right?

 

You need a 1/2 inch ratchet.

 

oops! meant 1/2 inch.

 

I've been using an impact gun on the same air hose for 13 years. I've used it so much I know how far it needs to be tightened. I've checked a few times against a torque wrench and it's always been damn close.

Works so good so far....


Mark

 

The tire guys at Wal-Mart torqued every lug nut on my 2 Suburbans when I took them in for a tire rotation recently. What I don't know is how tight the lug nuts were after they used the air gun, which was used before the torque wrench. And I don't know what their torque wrench was set at. For all I know the air gun torqued them down to 180 ft-lbs and the torque wrench just verified that a minimum torque had been applied, not necessarily the correct torque.

So, even if the tire guys torqued your nuts, they may still be out of spec.

Mike

 

Ouch!

 

Just buy a can of Plasti-Dip from Home depot or Lowes and spray a regular socket and you will get the same effect for $5 bucks! Plus, then you only need to buy one 17MM socket. This works really well and it peels off if you are ever in too tight of an area and the socket won't fit, just peel it off and reapply when done!

 

+1, I have a very expensive 1/2" Ingersoll-Rand Titanium impact gun that has the perfect setting on it for 90 PSI, it takes them off like butter and puts them on around 85 ft/lb! I do the same thing and it is always perfect, I don't even get my torque wrench out.

 

An easy and quick remedy to keeping you lug nuts unscratched is to simply use a plastic sandwich bag between your socket and lug nuts. The torque of the bolts is uneffected and they will remain scratch free. I have been using this method on my GP since new and my lug nuts look like the day I picked up the car.
Steve

 

I think a lot of it has to do with experience. If you do something enough times and are comfortable with it, it's okay.

Now, I do torque my lugnuts when I go to the track but for the street, I'm fine.





Freezer or regular? Gallon or sandwich?

Seriously, that's a fantastic idea.... never thought about it.

Thanks,

Mark