Yeah...it's a PITA.

I sharpened one of my chisels and wedged it into the flange of the ball joint and just beat it senseless. Slowly it started to separate. Just worked each side back and forth until it finally broke free. The flanges deformed(bent) some but when you torque the bolts back down, they bend back into place. Of course, if you are replacing them, it's not an issue.

Good idea to soak the top of the ball joint itch penetrating fluid overnight if you can...that may help some.

Like I said...it's a pain....good luck!

 

Anyway to get the pictures back? How much different is the R56 to change out the front sway compared to the R53.

 

See the picture in post 17 above. That is the joint you have to separate. Just keep wailing on it side to side and it will come out.

 

You could always take the brake calipers and hang them. Then just undo the spindles from the shocks and drop it that way. Done it that way twice worked both times.

 

Yep, i would never break the lines open on the brakes.
saves you a ton of trouble.

 

why would you want a stiffer front sway bar in a FWD car for? i understand poly bushings in controll arms(i have done that before), but why would you want more under steer in FWD?

does the combo of front and rear make i feel "planted", but wouldn't the front negate a little of the rear if you got both?

 

just add more rear than you need, it makes the car lean less.

 

If anyone is looking for the pictures that were originally posted with this how to like I was, there is a PDF version that someone has uploaded here. Hope it helps!

Nick

 

what about the exhaust after the downpipe? It obviously need to be disconnected to get the subframe down. Certainly for my 2008 r56 S. Ooops sorry this is Gen 1. Sorry guys.

 

Smack the lower control arm where the ball joint goes through.
A sudden shock in exactly the right place will cause sufficient vibration to force the balljoint taper to pop loose from its socket.
Done hundreds that way.

 

I know this is an old thread but I am doing this for repair purposes. I have a bad front sway bar bushing on the drivers side. I am planning on dropping the subframe but keeping it under the car (maybe we'll see if I have enough room) to fight less with my power steering reservoir. My MCS has the reservoir hidden in this tiny **** box.

Anyway...my question is. do you need to remove the left and right axle assemblies? I guess you can say I am still in R&D mode. Last night I just started to scout out my work areas and ID the things i need to keep in mind.

This is a great write up!!!! Saved the pdf to my computer too.

OR! Just brainstorming here...can't I just remove the subframe bolts, leaving everything in place to drop just enough to get a wrench in there to change the bushing out?

 

If you want to go that route, we have a subframe DIY here that may be helpful to you. Since you'll be replacing the bushings, look into using the Powerflex front sway bar bushings PEL-PFF5-102-16 here.

 

Thank you. I did see that and have read that. Although it is not my specific model and year I am assuming there will only be slight differences in the process. (I have a 2011 MCS Cab) Such as where the steering U-joint is located. I also watched a rather lengthy video online (again a different model year, Gen1 actually). Granted this video was about removing the clutch but it did involve removing the sub-frame.
That video recommended leaving the axle assemblies in place while your article, if i remember correctly, suggested that they needed be be removed. I am guessing removing the axles was for clearance purposes to wheel the sub frame out then?

One remaining question that I have (for now) is in regards to the power steering. Do you know if my model year actually has a reservoir or if being electronically assisted takes this out of the picture?

Thanks for the reply and link, it is very much appreciated