On the rear of my 2003 MCS; I have H&R Springs, H-Sport Comp Adj Sway Bar, and currently stock Drop Links. Due to the shorter springs and the long stock drop links my sway bar is angled up and not parallel to the ground. Sway bar is set at softest setting (hole closest to end of bar) for the street.

I have made a set of adjustable drop links so that I can adjust the sway bar to be parallel with the ground. The problem is that even with the stock drop links there is only about 1/2" clearance between the sway bar end and the trailing arm when the car is stationary on the ground. I would like to have the drop links adjusted to about 3/4" shorter than stock but the sway bar will hit the trailing arm. I figure I should not go any shorter than about 3/8" so I leave a little clearance between the sway bar and trailing arm but that will not get the sway bar parallel to the ground.

Has anyone else experienced this problem with the sway bar hitting the trailing arm if shorter drop links are used to get the sway bar parallel to the ground? Does someone have any ideas on how the eliminate the interference? I do not really want to grind away any of the trailing arm but I guess that might be one solution.

 

Why are you so concerned with the sway bar being parallel to the ground? It's not that critical an issue as long as the sway bar is not under any torsion from side to side and doesn't hit anything at either extreme of suspension motion. It's nice, but not really that critical.

Relax. Go for a ride.

 

http://precision-mini.com/MiniTuning.html
click under Suspension and see the end links.

 

It's mostly impossible to get the rear bar ends to parallel, but ideally they should be.

 

I just snapped my Alta endlinks. The ones that were supposed to be in the front had to be put in the rear because the front bolt would not go throught the H-Sport sway. I think the lack of height....too much stress was placed on the link and snapped. The vendor I got the links from 5 months ago won't cover warranty and Alta is giving me problems. Now, I hit the frame sometimes going over bumps.

 

Remember, endlinks work in tension for the most part, hence their delicate size. My eyebrows were somewhat raised when examining the stock and Webb setup as I got into the install; the endlinks are not vertical and there is no slider available from aftermarket vendors to keep the bottom and top attachments on the same axis. From the rear, the Webb endlinks are postioned wider at the top. At some level a series of washers should be installed to correct this position as well.

A vertical orientation protects endlinks from undesirable forces, and, allows only vertical forces to be applied to the bar. Other axial forces begin to apply forces to the bushings that were not intended...or should not be intended.

You can try to install washers to get the endlinks to be on a vertical axis. But then, you'll need to use a proper bolt that can handle the extra cantilever

 

That's why mine snapped!