If the car was bordering on intolerable to drive on the OEM shocks, I imagine you would be hating life driving around city streets with dedicated track shocks - the worse the street conditions, the more you would be hating the ride.

I think that the best way to evaluate the FSDs is as a shock that is the current state-of-the-art for street with a very close second to a dedicated track shock.

I have been comparing the FSDs to the Magnetic Selective Ride Control option on the C5 & C6 Corvettes & Cadillac XLR (and, I think under license to some Porsche & Ferrari models). MSRC gives a better combination of touring comfort and track control than the FSDs, but it also comes with a $1,400/corner price tag (plus the requirement for the control computer and wiring harness and vehicle-specific programming @ somewhere north of $5,000).

 

Hi, I just installed the FSD and R speed rear sway bar yesterday in mi Mini Cooper 06. I live in Santiago Chile and roads are not very smooth and have many pot holes....after driving 3 blocks I coukd feel the difference from stock shocks. I run 18" wheels so the shock change was a MUST!

The only thing I can tell anyone that can afford to change the shocks, JUST DO IT.

 

Here in Chicago, I was just quoted $1100 for the install at a local BMW/MINI, Mercedes and Porsche shop... They work on some really nice cars, so I guess that's the price you pay for that kind of shop.

They'll do Tirerack matching on the price, the rest is in labor. Looks like they're quoting about 4 hours.

Anyone know of any shops with good service and rates in Chicago that will do MINI work?

 

Im not from Chicago, so Im not sure how labor rates are out there at some independant shops, but $1100 - $630 = $470 for labor ($117.50 per hour, plus tax on parts!). Seems a little steep, unless that includes an alignment with the labor. Nonetheless however, if you trust the shop doing the work, then labor cost shouldn't be an issue.

 

Are you comparing a MINI with FSDs vs a C5/C6 Vette and a Caddillac with FSDs or the MSRC, or just the technology of FSDs vs MSRC?

MSRC is awesome technology Im sure (thats why vettes and caddys fetch $50+!), but from a totally different world than the MINI. Im not sure how they compare with each other.

 

Ulrichd,

Get those FSDs and springs installed yet? Post your thoughts when done!

Thanks!

 

No alignment. 4-5 hours labor estimate. Maybe they over estimated the time? Anyways, I trust the shop 100%

one question though -- currently with 17" Dunlop RFs (40% tread remaining), what should I do first to improve the ride quality:

a) FSDs (on stock springs)
b) 17" non RFs (least expensive perhaps, keeping my current rims)
c) 16" non RFs

 

The absolute best improvement you can make in the ride is to dump the run flats. Whether you choose 16 or 17, it is going to be a major improvement. And you are approaching needing tires anyhow, so it's money needing to be spent anyway. I would start with tires and then see how you feel about it before doing suspension work. We went through this EXACT scenario with a customer, who, when he finally got non-run-flats for his car, had us REMOVE the aftermarket suspension and put his car back to stock, and he has been happy ever since. (he chose bilstein shocks and a soft lower spring)

 

Thanks

 

I would second dumping the runflats. However, there is a good argument for going with a smaller tire (and a taller tire - such as from /45 series to /50 series). The real question is how much do you hate the ride harshness? If you have medical problems (like me - every time I went for a ride with the runflats, my neck would go into spasming from a prior whiplash injury), then go for the maximum improvement you can afford.

You will see a HUGE improvement going from 17 inch (presumably /45 series) runflats to 16 inch /50 series non-runflat tires. That will come at a cost of around $1,400 to $1,600 depending on which tire/rim combination you choose. The FSDs will get you the last bit (~25%) of improvement in ride quality. If you don't have medical issues, maybe a compromise would be to go with 17 inch non-runflats with FSDs? But then again, I was able to lose about 80 lbs in rotational mass from dumping the S-lites and switching to SSR Comps., which approximates to losing a phantom passenger (better acceleration and braking with the SSR Comps).

Decisions, decisions, decisions....

 

For sure....lose those run-flats! I went with Bridgestone Potenza G009s in 205/50/16. Not a high performance tire, but a nice compromise for a good combo of handling in all seasons and the treadwear is like 460 with A temp and A trac ratings. Have been on these 25k miles now. Only downside is they are a bit noisy.

 

[quote=paulr]No alignment. 4-5 hours labor estimate. Maybe they over estimated the time? Anyways, I trust the shop 100%


I would say definently an over estimate on time. Honestly cannot believe it would take 4-5 hours to install! I watched Scott and Matt at CCC do my install (FSDs, springs and 4 rear control arms) and less than 3 hours, I was on the road home!

 

Is it necessary to get an alignment on a 2003 Cooper which didn't have much adjustment anyways?? I understand 2005 & 2006 MINIs are different in that regard, atleast in the rear.

I'm thinking of getting some FSDs and installing them myself--I did my own HSports on the stock strusts and an RSpeed Sway bar.

 

Hey Richard! How you been?

I had alignment done because I had replaced the rear control arms, which was basically to bring the rear back to spec. After install, rear camber was -3.0 on the driver's side, and -2.6 on the passenger side. Not sure what it would have been had I left the stock control arms in. The benefit now is an almost fully adjustable rear suspension! (camber/toe).

From what I understand, you can get by with stock control arms on lowered springs. I don't know where the camber ends up at this point, but it can't be returned to spec without the adjustable control arms. (05/06 stocks allow for a bit of adjustment from what I have read). Seriously negative camber will cause pre-mature tire wear on the inside edge of the tire, but the car will stick better than ever!

I wish I had the time to do all of the install work myself, it really isn't too difficult, but much easier and faster on a lift!

Take care!

 

I've heard that it is basically essential if yiou are adding springs that lower your car.
FSD alone - no need for an alignment.

There have been many threads with alignment suggestions for lowered Minis.

 

So the FSD's don't affect the ride height that much compared to the stock shocks? Would most of you agree its the springs that make the largest difference in height?

 

I would (agree that the springs make the most amount of difference in ride height).

 

Yes, I've seen many of the threads. I asked because I wasn't sure if this was a requirement for FSD's or not. I didn't do an alignment when I went with my H-Sport 9 months ago. Thanks for the info.

TrentF
I thought that was you! Glad to know you're still around and that the Konis' are doing well for you. I'll be going that route very soon too!

Richard