I've got the Webb camber plates. They attach to the strut tower with 3 bolts. The bolt heads in the wheel well are kept from moving with allen head socket openings. The camber plates themselves have smooth bolt holes. The nuts are nyloc lock nuts. The problem I have is that the spring covers up one of the 3 bolts from the wheel well. An allen wrench cannot be insterted from below to hold the bolt still because it is covered up. Hence one bolt cannot be removed. Hence the strut cannot be removed. The bolts should have had allen wrench holes in the nut (topside) end to address this issue, or better yet, be permanently fixed or threaded into the camber plate proper. Has anyone dealt with this issue? I'm in the middle of the job and discovered the problem. Please post fast or call 714 - 225 - 7878.

The problem is I'm going to autocross tomorrow and there is some crunching/grinding going on because of the design of the Webb camber plate. As it has been explained to me by the manufacturer of the camber plate, the camber plate digs a hole into the upper spring plate and the upper spring plate needs to be changed out and a bigger washer installed between the camber plate and spring plate.

 

You have the older set of these. The newer set (that are no longer sold by Webb) do in fact have that back bolt as a now fixed in place stud.

Yes, (I gather you spoke with Sol) the bushing housing does hit that upper spring plate. This can be fixed by rotating that plate (if you have coilovers) to the sweet spot where contact is lowest. Then (and this will work for stock struts) you can mark that spot and take the plate of and pound the heck out of it with a ball penned hammer and make some more room for the camber plate.
You will also get noise if you have too much camber and that top spring plate binds on the inside of the strut tower. That's more of a "BING" sound when turning the wheel. You can really hear it when maneuvering at very slow speed.
Hope this helps

 

Thanks for the help and fast response. My neighbor just came over and suggested I slot the bolt end and use a screw driver to keep it from rotating. DUH!! I knew that!

Well, I was reminded too late. Will have to try the project another time. Put it back together as was running out of time. Maybe I will move the camber out a tad ( I'm eyeballing it) and see if that helps for now.

 

I had same issue with 1st version of the Webb plates- couldn't get to allen head. Also had issue with plates destroying two sets of spring perch. 2nd version fixes this but doesn't address the issue of the problem with the stock spring perch. Webb no longer sells these- he uses Helix plates.
I have Hsports springs & Koni Yellows-- If you leave out the large stock washer as instructions say, it leaves the camber plate bushing directly in contact with hole in the spring perch- this bushing is just barely larger than the hole- it eventually punches the hole out and destroys the perch and camber plates rubs directly on the perch. The force needs to spread out by installing the large diameter stock washer or something similar. problem i had is with the Koni yellows then there isn't enough of the shock threads showing thru top to install the top nut onto the shock if you use this large washer. I also had to machine down the larger of the two Webb bushings to allow enough of the threads to show.
The issue with reaching the inner allen bolt- if you loosen the crows foot nuts and move the camber adjustment you can get to this with a wrench - its a pain but can be done. I had the plates threaded and installed different studs so i don't have to do this again.

 

"there isn't enough of the shock threads showing thru top to install the top nut onto the shock"

Looking at camber plate I also notice that there are no threads protruding thru the nut, and even the nut looks like it's not the original nut. Perhaps the mechanic used a different/shorter nut because of lack of thread.
Putting a washer under the monoball in the camber plate to save the upper spring perch may use up critical threads of the shock. I hadn't thought of this before. Funny that only the driver side plate seems to be making the crunching/grinding sound.

Thanks for your heads-up on plates.