Suspension Springs, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Suspension Ireland Engineering Street/Race plates?

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Old Oct 7, 2005 | 03:21 PM
  #26  
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toe

Originally Posted by MSFITOY
I'm about to install my IE race/street camber plates too. One thing discovered is that the round flange around the top of the towers needs to be trimmed towards the inside to make clearance for adjustments once the assembly is installed to the tower (something IE didn't mention).

Question for you guys:

1-What kind of camber/toe gauge tools did you guys use?
2-How did you adjust the toe? On the ground? If so, how did you guys get under the Mini to do that?

Thanks:smile:
1- use a toe guage from harbour freight. i dont know about an inexpensive camber gauge. 2-my son is thin enough to reach under the car behind the front wheel to reach the toe adjust arm (? correct name) otherwise youd have to raise it up to do it; set it down and remeasure. i have the front toe at 0; and camber at -2. the rear is at 0 toe and -1.25 camber. i hope that helps a little :smile:
 
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Old Oct 7, 2005 | 03:26 PM
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That's what I planned but just wondered if anyone's done a DIY and with what tools:smile:
 
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Old Oct 8, 2005 | 07:14 AM
  #28  
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I have installed a set of the Ireland Eng. Street/Track plates and have sold a few more. I have seen a few other brands and really like the Ireland units. I liked them so much I got a set for myself. A great made product at an awesome price that fits everyone’s budget, and give the best for both worlds, quite operation and camber adjustment. This was the first run and I think they are still working out all the small details, but I didn’t have to do anything to the plate other than shorten the bolts the set adjustment by one thread. You also have to trim the tower to get full adjustment, but all camber plates need that to happen. Yeah the directions did suck and I passed the word back to Ireland to update them. Last I talked to them they were out of them and are making more. If anyone needs more info, send me an e-mail or give me a call.









:smile:
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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 02:09 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by MSFITOY
I'm about to install my IE race/street camber plates too. One thing discovered is that the round flange around the top of the towers needs to be trimmed towards the inside to make clearance for adjustments once the assembly is installed to the tower (something IE didn't mention).

Question for you guys:

1-What kind of camber/toe gauge tools did you guys use?
2-How did you adjust the toe? On the ground? If so, how did you guys get under the Mini to do that?

Thanks:smile:
One of my buddy's has a killer old, trackside-style Snap-On camber/caster gauge. It works really, really well.

I adjusted the toe under the car, yes, but it was up on some riser dealies. We used a different trackside-style rig to do the toe - a piece of aluminum bar stock with pointer attachments, using the same outside rib on the ES100's, working from front to back, adjusting, checking, repeat...
 
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 10:52 AM
  #30  
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A small update:: Here are some photo's of what has to be trimmed out to get full adjustment. As most people, i run 2.25 deg. and this was need to get that. with no trimming i could get about 1.3 deg. now for the photo's.....



 
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 08:51 AM
  #31  
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Pretty decent cut/touchup work there. I assume that this greatly strengthens the top of the tower so it is not as suceptible to mushrooming as well as the adjustability?
 
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 09:21 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by LeeL
Pretty decent cut/touchup work there. I assume that this greatly strengthens the top of the tower so it is not as suceptible to mushrooming as well as the adjustability?
Thankyou , and Yes it does make it stonger.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 11:27 AM
  #33  
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Interesting if you look you can see that there was some red paint applied.

I wounder if there is a cutting templete available for those
 
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 12:59 PM
  #34  
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Yeah i did some touch up after i made the cuts. not only do i like the work i do to look good, i also don't want any rust to form. i am sure that a template could be made, but they don't even tell you in any directions that the cuts need to be made. for any fabicator they should be able to see how far they need to trim and what would be done to look good.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 01:00 PM
  #35  
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Look very nice
 
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 01:16 PM
  #36  
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Chad I thought these were just drop in and no problem to get up to 3 degrees of camber according to Ireland. The directions suck and they should really have a template made up for these. I know when I talked to them nothing was said about cutting at all. I know you supply and install these,
maybe they'll listen to you. All I hear is " we're going to post instructions on our web page". It's too bad because for the price these are really a bargain.
They also have a rear bar thats been out forever that is like the one Randy is coming out with. I guess there's a few guys out west using it and it's quite good from what I hear.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 02:26 PM
  #37  
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yeah your right larry, i have tried to talk to them about some of this and i don't feel it made an impact. but the parts are still good, you just have to make them fit a bit.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2005 | 02:54 PM
  #38  
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I Installed my Street/Track plates today. After reading all the post here at NAM and careful planning, the entire install took a little over 2 hours, No problems, no supprises. No noticible change in ride height. I can feel a little more vibration inside but not too bad.
I agree the instructions could be better. I had called a couple of times with questions and I got good service.
I have Koni yellows and H Sport springs in case anyone was wanting to know.
Thanks to all who posted their experiences and special thanks to agocart for the pics of the tower mods.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 03:19 PM
  #39  
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Which way you guys installed the piece that slides on the plates? In the instructions it says you can change caster by installing this piece different ways.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 09:36 AM
  #40  
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What's the max amount of neg camber you can get out of these without hacking up the shock tower?
 
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 09:43 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by markbradford
What's the max amount of neg camber you can get out of these without hacking up the shock tower?
Not much...clearance cutting is mandatory...ask Chad at DT
 
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 09:59 AM
  #42  
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Is that strictly for these plates or for other camber plates as well?
 
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 12:01 PM
  #43  
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I have the same question. I would like to buy the Ireland plates but don't want to hack up my car. I know I would never buy a used car that was cut up to add camber plates. What was this car used for???????

Does anyone know if the RDR plate requires cutting?
 
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 12:08 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by gobble
Does anyone know if the RDR plate requires cutting?
They do not.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 12:15 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by petecrosby
They do not.
Don't they also jack up the car?
 
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 05:54 PM
  #46  
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Ireland street plates don't need any cutting of the tower. 1.25 neg camber on stock car. Lowered or coil-overs produce 2.0 neg camber.
Street-track with cutting produce 2.5 plus neg.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 09:04 PM
  #47  
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I've got a 0.60 degree split from left to right. I need adjustables to even it out.

So, again, how much negative camber can be gained with the adjustable Ireland plates *WITHOUT* hacking up the shock towers?
 
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 06:29 AM
  #48  
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I installed the Ireland plates a few months ago when I also did H-sport springs and Ireland rear links. I had a shop do the alignment, but found out that they did not do it like I asked. Not enough negative camber in front. I readjusted the front to get max negative without cutting the holes for extra adjustment. Then I used my home made toe bar to adjust the toe on the ground. Just a touch of toe out (~1/8" total). I was able to get to the rack adjustments from behind the front wheels. It was not easy, but doable. It now handles like a dream. I did a measurement of camber using a large carpenters square and a steel rule. I now have about 2 degrees negative in the front, 1 degree negative in the rear. I wish I had a camber gauge to make accurate measurements, but I think I am close enough. There is not pull and the car turns in fairly equal both directions.

Good Luck
Mike
 
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 09:04 PM
  #49  
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go up a few posts and all the info is there. i was able to get 1.3 deg. with no cuts. but you could buy the street units that will give you a fixed 1.25 if you just want some camber, but it's not adjustable. any time you need help, just give me a call.

Chad
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 06:54 AM
  #50  
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I guess I don't understand the big deal about not wanting to notch the towers... I mean, what's the big deal?

The Ireland plates are cheaper than anyone else's and work just as well... and, they don't change the ride height of the car... Ya want negative camber at the best price? This is the way to go...
 
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