Suspension Maximum Camber
Maximum Camber
FYI,
Just installed H-sport camber plates with stock MCS springs and just had a competition alignment set up for max camber. All we could get was -1.5 degrees on one side and -2.3 degrees on the other. It seems that the strut spring assembly interferes with sheet metal near the engine cradle mount point. Just the way it is I suppose
. I will have to settle for -1.5 degree camber this season. Maybe next season I'll go with coil-overs to get more camber.
Just installed H-sport camber plates with stock MCS springs and just had a competition alignment set up for max camber. All we could get was -1.5 degrees on one side and -2.3 degrees on the other. It seems that the strut spring assembly interferes with sheet metal near the engine cradle mount point. Just the way it is I suppose
. I will have to settle for -1.5 degree camber this season. Maybe next season I'll go with coil-overs to get more camber.
Originally Posted by minifinn
FYI,
Just installed H-sport camber plates with stock MCS springs and just had a competition alignment set up for max camber. All we could get was -1.5 degrees on one side and -2.3 degrees on the other. It seems that the strut spring assembly interferes with sheet metal near the engine cradle mount point. Just the way it is I suppose
. I will have to settle for -1.5 degree camber this season. Maybe next season I'll go with coil-overs to get more camber. 
Just installed H-sport camber plates with stock MCS springs and just had a competition alignment set up for max camber. All we could get was -1.5 degrees on one side and -2.3 degrees on the other. It seems that the strut spring assembly interferes with sheet metal near the engine cradle mount point. Just the way it is I suppose
. I will have to settle for -1.5 degree camber this season. Maybe next season I'll go with coil-overs to get more camber. Yes you get what you get when dealing with stock suspension parts.
If you moved to H-sport lowering springs you could get as much as -2.3 degrees negative camber in the front, maybe even up to -2.5.
Each side is different so you may see a disparity like you have so you do the best you can for now. -1.5 IS better than the stock -0.1 to -0.5 degrees. What are you setting the rear camber to?
In the future if you get either coil overs or lower springs you should be able to get -2.0 to -2.5 degrees in the front camber but don't go overboard as most drivers do find that about -2.1 to -2.3 is enough.
minihune,
I have stock rear arms so I have rear camber factory set. I went zero toe, however, out back.
As far as -1.5 degrees camber, it seems to make a big difference
. I'm not dissapointed at all. I am supprised how this small amount of change along with 1/16" toe-out impacts grip and turn-in. I set my H-sport rear bar to "middle" and the car just rocks!!! I can't wait for some "test and tune" time to experiment with the rear bar setting and tire pressures on my Azenis.
You say that H-sport springs can get more camber clearance without going full coilovers?
I have stock rear arms so I have rear camber factory set. I went zero toe, however, out back.
As far as -1.5 degrees camber, it seems to make a big difference
You say that H-sport springs can get more camber clearance without going full coilovers?
minifinn,
So what are your current settings for alignment?
Front toe 1/16" out
front camber -1.5 degrees
rear toe zero
rear camber????? -1.5 degrees?
Normally we use rear camber one degree to 0.5 degrees less negative than the front camber so in your case about -1.3 to -1.5 would be OK but since you have no rear control arms (not legal) then you get whatever you've got unless you can find a way to adjust it (brute force!). You can adjust tire pressures to compensate a bit.
Yes, the -1.5 degrees in the front is very good and much bettter for autocross than the stock camber.
Right now you have a mismatch of right and left front camber. When I added front RDR camber plates to my MCS with H-sport springs I had no trouble getting both sides to -2.2 or -2.3 degrees with a max of about -2.5 but the least camber I could set was -0.8 on one side and -1.0 on the other.
H-sport springs puts you in another class and does give better performance but not as good as a set of coil overs. Your results may vary since there are some differences with each car and model.
For the rear bar the middle setting is a good place to start and the soft or firm would be worth a try but watch out, the handling will be different with more or less understeer a result of the bar adjustment.
So what are your current settings for alignment?
Front toe 1/16" out
front camber -1.5 degrees
rear toe zero
rear camber????? -1.5 degrees?
Normally we use rear camber one degree to 0.5 degrees less negative than the front camber so in your case about -1.3 to -1.5 would be OK but since you have no rear control arms (not legal) then you get whatever you've got unless you can find a way to adjust it (brute force!). You can adjust tire pressures to compensate a bit.
Yes, the -1.5 degrees in the front is very good and much bettter for autocross than the stock camber.
Right now you have a mismatch of right and left front camber. When I added front RDR camber plates to my MCS with H-sport springs I had no trouble getting both sides to -2.2 or -2.3 degrees with a max of about -2.5 but the least camber I could set was -0.8 on one side and -1.0 on the other.
H-sport springs puts you in another class and does give better performance but not as good as a set of coil overs. Your results may vary since there are some differences with each car and model.
For the rear bar the middle setting is a good place to start and the soft or firm would be worth a try but watch out, the handling will be different with more or less understeer a result of the bar adjustment.
Originally Posted by minifinn
minihune,
I have stock rear arms so I have rear camber factory set. I went zero toe, however, out back.
As far as -1.5 degrees camber, it seems to make a big difference
. I'm not dissapointed at all. I am supprised how this small amount of change along with 1/16" toe-out impacts grip and turn-in. I set my H-sport rear bar to "middle" and the car just rocks!!! I can't wait for some "test and tune" time to experiment with the rear bar setting and tire pressures on my Azenis.
You say that H-sport springs can get more camber clearance without going full coilovers?
I have stock rear arms so I have rear camber factory set. I went zero toe, however, out back.
As far as -1.5 degrees camber, it seems to make a big difference
You say that H-sport springs can get more camber clearance without going full coilovers?
minihune,
Current settings are
Front -1.5 degree camber with 1/16" total toe-out
Rear -1 degree camber (factory control arms) 0 toe
Everything else within factory spec tolerance.
With the H-sport bar on middle setting I can steer with the throttle in tight sweepers. It adds a whole new dimension to control. Controlled four wheel drift is easy. On higher speed turns I have to power-through the turn to be safe. It kind of reminds me of how an old 911 Porsche used to scare me when I came into a corner too hot
. Throttle lift oversteer is just on the threshold. I think I will only use the max firm setting on the rear bar for auto-x for sure.
Current settings are
Front -1.5 degree camber with 1/16" total toe-out
Rear -1 degree camber (factory control arms) 0 toe
Everything else within factory spec tolerance.
With the H-sport bar on middle setting I can steer with the throttle in tight sweepers. It adds a whole new dimension to control. Controlled four wheel drift is easy. On higher speed turns I have to power-through the turn to be safe. It kind of reminds me of how an old 911 Porsche used to scare me when I came into a corner too hot
. Throttle lift oversteer is just on the threshold. I think I will only use the max firm setting on the rear bar for auto-x for sure.
Trending Topics
Spring hitting at -2.00 degrees with H-Sports
Has anyone modified the strut tower to add clearance for either stock springs or H-Sports?
It looks like the spring is hitting a stamped rib in the sheetmetal. I would rather keep the camber at the -2 degrees setting if it's possible to alter (with a big hammer??) the sheetmetal.
Background:
Early 2002 MCS with the front suspension upgraded to later 2002 specs
H-Sport springs
RDR camber plates
Stock dampers (the 2002 stiffer ones)
Front at -2 degrees camber, 1/16" toe out.
Rear at -1.5 degrees camber with 0 toe.
The handling is great but the clunking noise when the spring rubs is going to be hard to explain to the wife. (she doesn't know about this latest addition
)
Thanks for any help.
It looks like the spring is hitting a stamped rib in the sheetmetal. I would rather keep the camber at the -2 degrees setting if it's possible to alter (with a big hammer??) the sheetmetal.
Background:
Early 2002 MCS with the front suspension upgraded to later 2002 specs
H-Sport springs
RDR camber plates
Stock dampers (the 2002 stiffer ones)
Front at -2 degrees camber, 1/16" toe out.
Rear at -1.5 degrees camber with 0 toe.
The handling is great but the clunking noise when the spring rubs is going to be hard to explain to the wife. (she doesn't know about this latest addition
)Thanks for any help.
Settings
MINIHUNE
Can you list the setting that are recommended for the MINI. I know you had a list of various setting for different setups but I can't seem to find them. Thanks
Can you list the setting that are recommended for the MINI. I know you had a list of various setting for different setups but I can't seem to find them. Thanks
Originally Posted by sanddan
Has anyone modified the strut tower to add clearance for either stock springs or H-Sports?
It looks like the spring is hitting a stamped rib in the sheetmetal. I would rather keep the camber at the -2 degrees setting if it's possible to alter (with a big hammer??) the sheetmetal.
.......
It looks like the spring is hitting a stamped rib in the sheetmetal. I would rather keep the camber at the -2 degrees setting if it's possible to alter (with a big hammer??) the sheetmetal.
.......
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