Has anyone used a control arm bushing removal tool like this.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bav-auto.../b8800078~bav/
I have seen a few people make there own various types but for $65 I'm not sure it's worth my time . Most of what I found on here is 1st gen and they installed a powerflex bushing or similar type. I plan on installing a factory or OEM bushing. I found a cheap type on Ebay that said you do not have to remove the bracket which keeps you from dropping the subframe. I would rather spend the money on the Bavarian one for a few more dollars and I'm guessing it will allow me to do the same thing without dropping the subframe.

 

I wish I knew this tool existed before I went and bought a hydraulic press and press tool kit to do mine. Though I'm happy I had it because mine were really stuck in there, I would have probably stripped this tool getting mine out.

If ECS offers a warranty on this tool it's probably worth a shot. Never had a tool from ECS that I didn't think was high quality.

EDIT: On second examination I'm curious to see this tool in action. Do you have to drop the subframe to use it? I don't see how you wouldn't need to. Looks like you need to have both ends of the LCA bushing exposed to use this, and if you don't drop the subframe the control arms themselves would be in the way.

 

My friend that owns a repair shop and has had multiple Mini's said he has removed the control arm without dropping the subframe. Something about using the right ratchet wrench with a swivel head. Probably have to tilt your head at the perfect angle too. I figured this would help if we can leave the bushing bracket and just push them in and out with this tool.
I have a bad ball joint on my right control arm so I figure its time to do them all.

 

Ah I understand. Push the control arm out the front then pull the bushing out of the bracket towards the back.

Again, just coming from personal experience, those bushings can be in there tight. When I was pressing mine out I had to put one under so much pressure that it went off like a gunshot when it finally broke free. I actually crushed pieces of 3" stainless steel exhaust tubing with a 1/16" thick wall trying to use that to press the old bushings into. I'm sure 120k miles in the northeast salt wasn't helping the situation either.

I also needed to throw the brackets on the BBQ for 20 minutes so they would expand enough to press new (albeit aftermarket) bushings into, otherwise they would keep going in crooked.

Yeah the LCA bushings for me were every bit of a nightmare you hear about subframe bushings being.

 

Tried this, went badly and the cheap extract tool threads gave up. It really is a tight bushing. I dropped the subframe completely. If you go this route make sure you get your steering wheel centred and tie it off before undoing the flexible joint so it goes back in the same angle or you are going to have to get the angle reset. It is a screamer of a job! Oh and make sure you get your bushes in the right way round, I used Powerflex and got the first one in back to front and had to head somewhere with a press to reverse it...

 

We own the tools to do the control arm bushings on the car and I can tell you it is actually easier and faster to just drop the subframe and not use the tool. Even if you just lower it in the back and use a wrench on the bolts (fyi those are tight bolts)
But if you are doing the job go with the powerflex bushings. The stock bushings just don't last and if you don't put them in perfect they will wear out even faster because they will have more stress on them if not exactly centered right. The powerflex require no centering and will last forever. You can press them into the bracket with a vise if you don't have a press. Or a couple washers and a threaded rod will work too. If you don't have the press to get the old ones out you can just cut the outer ring of the bushing with a hacksaw and it will pop to get it out.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...7-r58-r59.html

 

That's basically what my friend said that owns a shop. My only issue is if I'm going to run my Mini in SCCA Street (stock) class again because the powerflex bushings are not legal. I'm starting to feel like my desire to take another shot at it with the Mini is only because I have been enjoying playing around with changing its look and realized I haven't done anything that's not legal in street class. The National courses have been getting faster and more HP dominant and the Mini is just underpowered compared to the other competitive cars that have 180 to 200 hp like my Civic Sport. The Mini is just so fast in the corners and that makes it a blast to drive.