How has everyone replaced the control arm bushings on their 2nd gens? I have new control arms, outer ball joints, and powerflex bushings. Every shop I've contacted for a quote all are quoting me the 5 to 6 hours to drop the front subframe to replace the bushings. Now I have access to a bushing puller. Has anyone used this type of tool?

 

I was attempting to do my bushings this weekend using the sawsall method. I was unable to get the inner ball joint to break loose. I purchased some bolts and large steel washers to mimic your bushing tool which seemed promising. I need to get a larger pickle fork to break that ball joint. One thing I did notice after trying to get that ball joint popped, is now I NEED A NEW BALLJOINT!!!! Once I got everything back together there was play in the joint which was not there before. I have an R53, which I believe is pretty much the same setup as yours. My advice, while you're doing all that work to replace your bushings, use the polyurethane bushings and replace your inner balljoints while you're there. Let me know how it works out for you..

 

Way Motor Works sells the bushings prepressed.

https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf....html?&cat=366

 

Problem is not with the bushings, I have them already, it is with the inner ball joint removal.

 

Still have to drop the subframe.

 

Have you watched youtube videos? Seems to be all R50/R53/R52 control arm and bushings removal videos. No 2nd generation.

The inner ball joint is part of the control arm. The outer ball joints are replacement.

 

That's true, they are part of the control arm, but they still go bad and need to be replaced, tried to save some time and not drop the sub-frame to replace LCA bushing. Sometimes, shortcuts are not really shortcuts....

 

When I did this a few years ago I dropped the subframe and used the pre-installed rear mounts from way. I didn't have issues with the ball joints. I just got some plain nuts and screwed them on to protect the threads, and a good sharp whack with a hammer and they were free.

I had a tech at MINI tell me that he could pry off bushings with the car on a lift and a long bar, but I can't verify.

Have fun,
Mike

 

I was trying to save some time by not dropping the sub-frame.. I'll get back to it next month or so..

 

Ended up not dropping the subframe. Removing and installing the bushings took for ever. Luckily I had a lift and this job would very miserable for the DIYer laying on his back in the driveway.

 

How did you remove the bushings, using the special tool, sawzall, or another way?

 

Sawzall and a air chisel.

 

I just finished this job on mine last weekend. Initially I tried to not drop the subframe completely, but then I was unable to get my torque wrench into the bolts to fully torque them. So I completely dropped the subframe. Honestly I should have just done it from the get go. It really isn't as bad as it seems!

I left the outer ball joint connected, as splitting that joint was fairly impossible with the drive shaft installed, so I removed the two bolts connecting the outer ball joint to the control arm. Then, with the entire subframe laying on my garage floor, all bolts are fully accessible. I used a 3 jaw puller to pull off my old control arm bushing carriers. Slipped on the new Powerflex bits 'n bobs, torqued everything back down, then up she went back into the car. I was super nervous about the steering spindle hitting the firewall, so it is advisable to have a buddy help guide it back up into the undercarriage.

Go get a full alignment, and I needed to have my steering angle sensor recalibrated since the alignment was enough to through that out of whack.

Delightful ride now, wheel doesn't hunt on grooved roads, nor hop around on uneven pavement.

Good luck, and have fun! Took me 2 days total...my 4 year old kept wanting to help in the garage