Suspension H-Sport TVS
What is TVS? Whatever it is, it is hard to imagine that it would be much better than simply adding a stiffer rear bar to your standard MC suspension. By doing it this way you will not give up the supple ride, but will achieve absolute go kart handling.
The H Sport 19MM on the center setting is an absolutely unbelievable improvement on my MC, but I expect that a 17MM S bar would accomplish virtually the same effect. I will know in a few months when I put the S bar on my wifes CVT with standard suspension.
Good luck,
The H Sport 19MM on the center setting is an absolutely unbelievable improvement on my MC, but I expect that a 17MM S bar would accomplish virtually the same effect. I will know in a few months when I put the S bar on my wifes CVT with standard suspension.
Good luck,
http://www.h-sport.com/cgi-bin/EDCst...alogno=80800-1
Here is the TVS
Looking forward to hearing how the S bar stacks up to the H-sport.
Here is the TVS
Looking forward to hearing how the S bar stacks up to the H-sport.
I'm not using the TVS kit but I am using the Springs and Competition sway bars. Nothing special about the TVS only that it includes all the suspension upgrades in one package. Springs, Swaybars, Tower Brace, Camber Links and Camber plates. I didn't want to spend that amount of money all at once and I'm buying each piece one at a time. All the TVS components are available for purchase separately. I'm am 100% satisfied with the H-Sport Springs and Sway-bars for both the street and the track. Absolutely fantastic!
Thanks for the link.
The problem with the kit IMHO is that they are adding a front sway bar. Stiffening the rear sway bar takes out understeer, stiffening the front sway bar puts the understeer back in.
If you want to do this much, I would strongly recommend buying the springs and the rear sway bar and leave the front sway bar stock.
Most of the sway bar companies offer "kits" with both sway bars so that they can sell two bars instead of one. Many folks who have never tuned the handling of a car naturally believe that the sway bars must "work together." It's true, they should work together, but stiffening both ends will make for a stiffer ride with a little less sway, but will not ultimately take out the understeer unless the rear bar is REALLY stiff. It is the relative stiffness of the two bars that makes the difference.
Therefore, stiffening ONLY the rear bar will do away with the understeer while leaving the suspension more supple to keep the wheels planted on the ground more of the time.
There is a great book you can get for $8 or so used on amazon.com. It is HOW TO MAKE YOUR CAR HANDLE. This book has probably been out close to thirty years now, but the principles remain the same. It is worth every penny.
Good luck,
The problem with the kit IMHO is that they are adding a front sway bar. Stiffening the rear sway bar takes out understeer, stiffening the front sway bar puts the understeer back in.
If you want to do this much, I would strongly recommend buying the springs and the rear sway bar and leave the front sway bar stock.
Most of the sway bar companies offer "kits" with both sway bars so that they can sell two bars instead of one. Many folks who have never tuned the handling of a car naturally believe that the sway bars must "work together." It's true, they should work together, but stiffening both ends will make for a stiffer ride with a little less sway, but will not ultimately take out the understeer unless the rear bar is REALLY stiff. It is the relative stiffness of the two bars that makes the difference.
Therefore, stiffening ONLY the rear bar will do away with the understeer while leaving the suspension more supple to keep the wheels planted on the ground more of the time.
There is a great book you can get for $8 or so used on amazon.com. It is HOW TO MAKE YOUR CAR HANDLE. This book has probably been out close to thirty years now, but the principles remain the same. It is worth every penny.
Good luck,
doesnt stiffing the front end improve front end response?
i want to know because in theory i think someone could have a thick bar in the back, and a sport bar in the front would probably stiffen up the car without throwing too much understeer back in
but i agree with the above statement that the rear bar is plenty enough... on softest setting, and you can still drift around
i want to know because in theory i think someone could have a thick bar in the back, and a sport bar in the front would probably stiffen up the car without throwing too much understeer back in
but i agree with the above statement that the rear bar is plenty enough... on softest setting, and you can still drift around
I would highly recommend the Front and Rear Bar. The Competition rear bar with the stock front bar gives alot of oversteer. With the competition front and rear bars I have neutral handling in the center hole on the rear and the soft setting on the front (still stiffer than stock). The Front bar is adjustable and you have the ability to stiffen up the entire car more and still be able to adjust over/understeer. The ride isn't rough with the front bar just stiffer side to side. The front bar is only about $100 more than the rear bar alone and well worth the money. The front and rear bars and springs are designed to work together to give you the best handling car.
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The TVS isn't needed unless you NEED the front camber correction, which is not needed on a street-only MINI. The strut tower brace doesn't help much if any. Stick with the springs, swaybars and control arms and you're good to go.
if the R&R weren't such a *****, a lot more would have reports on the front bar swap.
I agree that it is the relative bar stiffness, F/R, that affects steer reaction and it is the combined stiffness that reduces body roll. I am using the H&R bars, front and rear, designed as a set.
I agree that it is the relative bar stiffness, F/R, that affects steer reaction and it is the combined stiffness that reduces body roll. I am using the H&R bars, front and rear, designed as a set.
jlm has the theory down pat. It is indeed the RELATIVE stiffness of the bars that matter, but it also has to do with spring rates. Stiffening springs on the same end of the car has the same handling effect as stiffening the sway bar.
The difference is that stiffening the sway bar doesn't offer the ill effect of a rougher ride except when hitting a bump with one wheel or going over a speed bump or curb diagonally.
It is not about how much "sway" you have, it is about whether or not the car goes where you point it. If the car does not turn as much as you feel that you are telling it to turn, that is an understeer condition. To correct it you soften the front and/or stiffen the rear. If you OVER stiffen the rear and get it too loose, you can put a stiffer bar on the front (with negative ride quality effect) or soften the rear.
Yes, you can indeed put a super heavy bar on the rear and then stiffen up the bar in front and have neutral handling. The downside to this approach is that you are OVER stiffening the car at both ends. This takes away the ability for the suspension to keep the wheels planted firmly on the ground on bumpy surfaces. If the wheels don't stay on the ground you lose control.
AGAIN, I would encourage anyone interested in handling to get a copy of HOW TO MAKE YOUR CAR HANDLE.
The difference is that stiffening the sway bar doesn't offer the ill effect of a rougher ride except when hitting a bump with one wheel or going over a speed bump or curb diagonally.
It is not about how much "sway" you have, it is about whether or not the car goes where you point it. If the car does not turn as much as you feel that you are telling it to turn, that is an understeer condition. To correct it you soften the front and/or stiffen the rear. If you OVER stiffen the rear and get it too loose, you can put a stiffer bar on the front (with negative ride quality effect) or soften the rear.
Yes, you can indeed put a super heavy bar on the rear and then stiffen up the bar in front and have neutral handling. The downside to this approach is that you are OVER stiffening the car at both ends. This takes away the ability for the suspension to keep the wheels planted firmly on the ground on bumpy surfaces. If the wheels don't stay on the ground you lose control.
AGAIN, I would encourage anyone interested in handling to get a copy of HOW TO MAKE YOUR CAR HANDLE.
Hello all,
Next month I am planning on getting H-sport springs and a sway bar on my S. How does the ride height look? Does it look stock, aggressive...??? Is the drop about an Inch all the way around?? Thanks in advance.
Lagston
Next month I am planning on getting H-sport springs and a sway bar on my S. How does the ride height look? Does it look stock, aggressive...??? Is the drop about an Inch all the way around?? Thanks in advance.
Lagston
Originally Posted by LilRedMini
jlm has the theory down pat. It is indeed the RELATIVE stiffness of the bars that matter, but it also has to do with spring rates. Stiffening springs on the same end of the car has the same handling effect as stiffening the sway bar.
The difference is that stiffening the sway bar doesn't offer the ill effect of a rougher ride except when hitting a bump with one wheel or going over a speed bump or curb diagonally.
It is not about how much "sway" you have, it is about whether or not the car goes where you point it. If the car does not turn as much as you feel that you are telling it to turn, that is an understeer condition. To correct it you soften the front and/or stiffen the rear. If you OVER stiffen the rear and get it too loose, you can put a stiffer bar on the front (with negative ride quality effect) or soften the rear.
Yes, you can indeed put a super heavy bar on the rear and then stiffen up the bar in front and have neutral handling. The downside to this approach is that you are OVER stiffening the car at both ends. This takes away the ability for the suspension to keep the wheels planted firmly on the ground on bumpy surfaces. If the wheels don't stay on the ground you lose control.
AGAIN, I would encourage anyone interested in handling to get a copy of HOW TO MAKE YOUR CAR HANDLE.
The difference is that stiffening the sway bar doesn't offer the ill effect of a rougher ride except when hitting a bump with one wheel or going over a speed bump or curb diagonally.
It is not about how much "sway" you have, it is about whether or not the car goes where you point it. If the car does not turn as much as you feel that you are telling it to turn, that is an understeer condition. To correct it you soften the front and/or stiffen the rear. If you OVER stiffen the rear and get it too loose, you can put a stiffer bar on the front (with negative ride quality effect) or soften the rear.
Yes, you can indeed put a super heavy bar on the rear and then stiffen up the bar in front and have neutral handling. The downside to this approach is that you are OVER stiffening the car at both ends. This takes away the ability for the suspension to keep the wheels planted firmly on the ground on bumpy surfaces. If the wheels don't stay on the ground you lose control.
AGAIN, I would encourage anyone interested in handling to get a copy of HOW TO MAKE YOUR CAR HANDLE.
Hello ?!?!?? It's a Cooper. If he's not getting the Sport Suspension Plus, he's running a thin front bar (like me). Teaming that with the stiff Comp bar in the rear would result in a horrible oversteer problem. It would sound like snap-crackle-crunch. Snap oversteer, crackle as the gravel from the side of the road is swept up into the path of the backwards travelling Mini, and crunch as it comes to a sudden and forcible stop by the preverbial immoveable object that always seems to be in exactly the wrong spot for those travelling backwards.
Both bars are a must for any car not equipped with the SS+. Getting them all from H-Sport ensures that they're designed properly, softer springs/stiffer bars.
Both bars are a must for any car not equipped with the SS+. Getting them all from H-Sport ensures that they're designed properly, softer springs/stiffer bars.
These cars understeer quite badly from the factory. While slapping the comp. bar at its stiffest setting on an otherwise stock Mini would not be the best idea, it could probably be used alone at one of the softer settings.
Also, I wouldn't put absolute faith in the package being optimum right out of the box (although it's probably fairly decent). When I set up my track car (not a Mini), I *started* with the aftermarket manufacturer's recommendation, and changed spring rates until I found the right combination for my particular vehicle.
From my experience, I think the gent that suggested using both bars and tuning to achieve the most neutral cornering was right on track. I'd wager the springs in this kit are still fairly soft (for ride comfort), and stiffer bars at both ends are still necessary.
Brock
Also, I wouldn't put absolute faith in the package being optimum right out of the box (although it's probably fairly decent). When I set up my track car (not a Mini), I *started* with the aftermarket manufacturer's recommendation, and changed spring rates until I found the right combination for my particular vehicle.
From my experience, I think the gent that suggested using both bars and tuning to achieve the most neutral cornering was right on track. I'd wager the springs in this kit are still fairly soft (for ride comfort), and stiffer bars at both ends are still necessary.
Brock
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