Suspension Suspension: Stock vs. FSD vs. B4 ??
#101
Visibly the upper mounts looked OK and were not bent, but the were 10 years old and have taken a beating, so I just went ahead and replaced them.
Here are the links to everything I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221899551238
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281915692183
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301184163298
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271828776047
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271938025316
With the stuff above, I replaced everything but the springs.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Here are the links to everything I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221899551238
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281915692183
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301184163298
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271828776047
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271938025316
With the stuff above, I replaced everything but the springs.
Let me know if you have any questions.
#102
Visibly the upper mounts looked OK and were not bent, but the were 10 years old and have taken a beating, so I just went ahead and replaced them.
Here are the links to everything I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221899551238
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281915692183
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301184163298
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271828776047
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271938025316
With the stuff above, I replaced everything but the springs.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Here are the links to everything I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221899551238
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281915692183
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301184163298
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271828776047
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271938025316
With the stuff above, I replaced everything but the springs.
Let me know if you have any questions.
#103
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
I took my time and it was about an 6 hour job, stopping for lunch and taking a test ride after I did the rears (first). Some observations:
The front dust boots and bump stops were shot.
There was NO shrooming of the top mounts, but I replaced them anyways, as I had bought them just in case.
The rear bushings and stops were fine but just discolored and I replaced them just because.
I did the rears first to get warmed up, and then went for a test ride. They were easy. No noises or squeeks, success.
On the fronts I did not take apart the ball joints like some of the videos. I just removed the pinch bolts. The existing Strut fell right out. Getting the new ones in was a different story. Huge PITA. I had to actually assemble and drive the car (15 feet) to get the struts to fully seat. The new Strut assemblies seemed to be taller (New), requiring spring compressors to shorten them to get them back in. It might have been easier to take the ball joints off, but I got them in.
Two of the JCW Strut brace bolts broke and I had to get new ones. They are special sleeved bolts. Grrrr.
I could actually move the front strut pistons in/out with my hands and they were not generating much resistance. It's no wonder my teeth were rattling when I hit bumps.
The overall ride is much better. It does not absorb the extreme harsh stuff (sport springs?), but I was not expecting a magic carpet ride for $250 bucks.
I am pleased with the ride and even more pleased that there are no squeeks or noises and I got the job done right.
The top bolts on the front struts required an Allen wrench and a deep socket that I used an adjustable wrench on (Mcgyver). I broke the bolt loose while the strut was in the car rather than fight with it laying in the driveway.
Front sway bar bolts require a box wrench and Allen wrench.
My background is a "shade tree" mechanic and I was able to complete the job in the driveway with a 1.5 ton jack and stands, along with tools I have accumulated over the years. I took pictures before I dismantled things so I could refer to them if I had an "oh ****" moment. (I had a few).
I am happy with the results; however a neighbor thought there was a bar brawl with a few Navy sailers when he heard some screaming and lots of expletives coming from my driveway at times.
Have at it and share your experience!
The front dust boots and bump stops were shot.
There was NO shrooming of the top mounts, but I replaced them anyways, as I had bought them just in case.
The rear bushings and stops were fine but just discolored and I replaced them just because.
I did the rears first to get warmed up, and then went for a test ride. They were easy. No noises or squeeks, success.
On the fronts I did not take apart the ball joints like some of the videos. I just removed the pinch bolts. The existing Strut fell right out. Getting the new ones in was a different story. Huge PITA. I had to actually assemble and drive the car (15 feet) to get the struts to fully seat. The new Strut assemblies seemed to be taller (New), requiring spring compressors to shorten them to get them back in. It might have been easier to take the ball joints off, but I got them in.
Two of the JCW Strut brace bolts broke and I had to get new ones. They are special sleeved bolts. Grrrr.
I could actually move the front strut pistons in/out with my hands and they were not generating much resistance. It's no wonder my teeth were rattling when I hit bumps.
The overall ride is much better. It does not absorb the extreme harsh stuff (sport springs?), but I was not expecting a magic carpet ride for $250 bucks.
I am pleased with the ride and even more pleased that there are no squeeks or noises and I got the job done right.
The top bolts on the front struts required an Allen wrench and a deep socket that I used an adjustable wrench on (Mcgyver). I broke the bolt loose while the strut was in the car rather than fight with it laying in the driveway.
Front sway bar bolts require a box wrench and Allen wrench.
My background is a "shade tree" mechanic and I was able to complete the job in the driveway with a 1.5 ton jack and stands, along with tools I have accumulated over the years. I took pictures before I dismantled things so I could refer to them if I had an "oh ****" moment. (I had a few).
I am happy with the results; however a neighbor thought there was a bar brawl with a few Navy sailers when he heard some screaming and lots of expletives coming from my driveway at times.
Have at it and share your experience!
#104
In a past post someone had mentioned me needing to order the bump stops for the rear shocks as well but from the pics it looks like they come installed on the strut themselves, is that the case when you ordered them?
#105
My rear shocks came with bumpstops. The were shown in the picture on the site and I confirmed they were included.
#106
Perfect! Thanks for looking. I added everything needed to my cart on ECS and it looks like 600 in chnage for struts, stops, bolts, etc. Does that sound about right?
#107
I took the eBay route and bought all Lemforder parts from the lowest buy now vendors that totaled about $450 delivered.
#108
You can get the top rear bushing set for a little less on Amazon:
Also, the pricing of the Bilstein touring class struts at Rockauto.com is incredible - $205 shipped for the whole set of 4 (search for "rockauto coupon" to get an extra 5% off).
Does anyone know if the FSD's come with any bump stops? Pretty cool that the rear Bilsteins already come with them, as that's another $30 or so you save going that route.
I'm still trying to decide between the Bilstein TCs and FSDs myself. The price difference is huge at about $400, but folks seem to really like the FSDs once they get them on. Jim, how would you say Bilstein's compare to the stock ones with lower mileage?
Also, the pricing of the Bilstein touring class struts at Rockauto.com is incredible - $205 shipped for the whole set of 4 (search for "rockauto coupon" to get an extra 5% off).
Does anyone know if the FSD's come with any bump stops? Pretty cool that the rear Bilsteins already come with them, as that's another $30 or so you save going that route.
I'm still trying to decide between the Bilstein TCs and FSDs myself. The price difference is huge at about $400, but folks seem to really like the FSDs once they get them on. Jim, how would you say Bilstein's compare to the stock ones with lower mileage?
#109
Jim, how would you say Bilstein's compare to the stock ones with lower mileage?
I could not really justify +$400 for FSD without ever driving a car with that exact setup to see what I was buying. It would need to be a dramatic difference to justify the cost and I had no comparison.
HTH
Last edited by JIM_GRAHAM; 04-13-2016 at 04:23 AM.
#111
#112
Bilstein
Hi Steffen:
With this month's discount the Bilstein Touring Class go for $330.
http://new.minimania.com/part/NMS309...s-Gen1-R50-r53
Plus, here's an application guide that details other brands in addition to Bilstein.
http://new.minimania.com/Mini_Cooper...lication_Guide
Please let us know if we can help!
With this month's discount the Bilstein Touring Class go for $330.
http://new.minimania.com/part/NMS309...s-Gen1-R50-r53
Plus, here's an application guide that details other brands in addition to Bilstein.
http://new.minimania.com/Mini_Cooper...lication_Guide
Please let us know if we can help!
#113
Hi Steffen:
With this month's discount the Bilstein Touring Class go for $330.
http://new.minimania.com/part/NMS309...s-Gen1-R50-r53
Plus, here's an application guide that details other brands in addition to Bilstein.
http://new.minimania.com/Mini_Cooper...lication_Guide
Please let us know if we can help!
With this month's discount the Bilstein Touring Class go for $330.
http://new.minimania.com/part/NMS309...s-Gen1-R50-r53
Plus, here's an application guide that details other brands in addition to Bilstein.
http://new.minimania.com/Mini_Cooper...lication_Guide
Please let us know if we can help!
#114
I installed Koni FSD's today and wow what a difference! my OEM shocks had 75,000 miles on them and the bumps were pretty jarring, now it rides like a Cadillac, if it handles as well as stock I'll be super pleased. It took me seven and a half hours (including a trip to harbor freight for an impact wrench) it was hard work, but doable and much better than having to pay a shop to do the work.
The one issue I had with my shocks is on the front, the bottom spring mounting plate (where you put the spring pad and then the spring) was loose on the shock, does anybody know if this is normal? I oriented it on the shock the same way as the OEM shock and I figured it would probably settle with the weight of the car on it but I thought it was weird.
The one issue I had with my shocks is on the front, the bottom spring mounting plate (where you put the spring pad and then the spring) was loose on the shock, does anybody know if this is normal? I oriented it on the shock the same way as the OEM shock and I figured it would probably settle with the weight of the car on it but I thought it was weird.
#115
I installed Koni FSD's today and wow what a difference! my OEM shocks had 75,000 miles on them and the bumps were pretty jarring, now it rides like a Cadillac, if it handles as well as stock I'll be super pleased. It took me seven and a half hours (including a trip to harbor freight for an impact wrench) it was hard work, but doable and much better than having to pay a shop to do the work.
The one issue I had with my shocks is on the front, the bottom spring mounting plate (where you put the spring pad and then the spring) was loose on the shock, does anybody know if this is normal? I oriented it on the shock the same way as the OEM shock and I figured it would probably settle with the weight of the car on it but I thought it was weird.
The one issue I had with my shocks is on the front, the bottom spring mounting plate (where you put the spring pad and then the spring) was loose on the shock, does anybody know if this is normal? I oriented it on the shock the same way as the OEM shock and I figured it would probably settle with the weight of the car on it but I thought it was weird.
#116
Well I have one day of driving on them and I generally like them; they're smooth on the road and good when I push them. Unfortunately the fronts are coming off today and going back to Koni. It turns out that the spring mounts/perches aren't supposed to be loose, and they've found several sets that are so they're going to warranty them when they have the problem fixed in a few weeks but the bad news is I have to pull of the FSD's and put the old delphi's back on til they come in.
#117
Well I have one day of driving on them and I generally like them; they're smooth on the road and good when I push them. Unfortunately the fronts are coming off today and going back to Koni. It turns out that the spring mounts/perches aren't supposed to be loose, and they've found several sets that are so they're going to warranty them when they have the problem fixed in a few weeks but the bad news is I have to pull of the FSD's and put the old delphi's back on til they come in.
#118
I finally got my replacement front shocks installed yesterday! I also put in new strut mounts, new sway bar links, new upper and lower spring pads (though the originals looked fine when I compared the two) new gaiters, and new lower control arm outer ball joints. I did reuse the bump stops, but they looked fine. I definitely like the ride of the FSD's and I'm hoping to get the car on the track in a couple of weeks to really check out the performance.
I haven't driven the b4's but the fsd's are much smoother than the oems, and it feels like cornering will be slightly better than oem. I think if you can score fsd's for $600 or less then they are worth it, especially if you can do the work yourself, and the work isn't that hard.
I haven't driven the b4's but the fsd's are much smoother than the oems, and it feels like cornering will be slightly better than oem. I think if you can score fsd's for $600 or less then they are worth it, especially if you can do the work yourself, and the work isn't that hard.
#119
Well I have one day of driving on them and I generally like them; they're smooth on the road and good when I push them. Unfortunately the fronts are coming off today and going back to Koni. It turns out that the spring mounts/perches aren't supposed to be loose, and they've found several sets that are so they're going to warranty them when they have the problem fixed in a few weeks but the bad news is I have to pull of the FSD's and put the old delphi's back on til they come in.
I had to order a single front damper direct from Koni to complete a set, and it had this problem too. They sent me a new one quickly without any trouble. Glad it got sorted out before installing. Hoping to get the FSDs installed on mine soon.
#120
That is a bummer but yeah much better to realize it before you do the install. I honestly wasn't planning on doing the fronts since I had a bad experience doing it once before but the tears were so easy and I already had it on jack stands... Oh well I kind of enjoy doing suspension work, it's not too greasy and it's pretty easy to do as long as you take your time and pay attention to what you're doing.
#122
4th Gear
iTrader: (1)
I am going to jump into this old thread in case anyone can help me figure out what to do. I have the 2nd Gen body on my 2008 Clubman. I got 75k and 7 years out of my OEM suspension until rattles developed and my indy garage told me that my shocks were all done. I bought KONI FSD for all 4 corners to start a new life for my Mini.
Now, just 1.5 years and 12,000 miles later, the KONIs are shot. Rattling like crazy and leaking fluid. The 'lifetime warranty' is not easy to claim: You get only 1/2 of the retail price back if you get them in advance, meaning you keep driving your car, which I must.
Do KONIs last longer than 2 years generally? I drive softly on pretty good roads. Would another system last longer?
I can't afford to do this again on my tiny fixed retirement income. it's a quite unexpected expense after the big Koni investment last year.
Maybe I'll go for the 1/2 of retail back, but then I'd need to order new Konis now and trust that they'd find my other pair defective.
I'm hoping someone has an idea or perspective to help me make a decision to go on from here. The Konis felt great while they lasted...
Now, just 1.5 years and 12,000 miles later, the KONIs are shot. Rattling like crazy and leaking fluid. The 'lifetime warranty' is not easy to claim: You get only 1/2 of the retail price back if you get them in advance, meaning you keep driving your car, which I must.
Do KONIs last longer than 2 years generally? I drive softly on pretty good roads. Would another system last longer?
I can't afford to do this again on my tiny fixed retirement income. it's a quite unexpected expense after the big Koni investment last year.
Maybe I'll go for the 1/2 of retail back, but then I'd need to order new Konis now and trust that they'd find my other pair defective.
I'm hoping someone has an idea or perspective to help me make a decision to go on from here. The Konis felt great while they lasted...
#123
Koni FSD
Where are your original shocks? If you have a mini shop nearby, maybe they could loan you some takeoffs. Half retail is absurd. Do what you need to to get it all back.
I have probably 30,000 miles on my FSD's and no problems. I would say our roads are moderately good and the car gets driven pretty hard.
I have my takeoffs from my R52. Let me know where you are if you want to try to use them.
I have probably 30,000 miles on my FSD's and no problems. I would say our roads are moderately good and the car gets driven pretty hard.
I have my takeoffs from my R52. Let me know where you are if you want to try to use them.
#124
I've had FSDs on my other car ('08 Mazda 3) for over 4 years and about 50K miles with no problems.
If your FSD's are leaking, they will definitely be warrantied. Koni is good about honoring their warranty. I once ordered a shock from them that arrived with the spring plate loose, and they sent me another one and gave me a label for return shipping. So you'll pay half up front and then be refunded once they get your leaking struts. You'll have to check with them and see if the shipping is covered too.
Are you using lowering springs? I know that can shorten the life of the FSDs since they're meant for stock springs.
If your FSD's are leaking, they will definitely be warrantied. Koni is good about honoring their warranty. I once ordered a shock from them that arrived with the spring plate loose, and they sent me another one and gave me a label for return shipping. So you'll pay half up front and then be refunded once they get your leaking struts. You'll have to check with them and see if the shipping is covered too.
Are you using lowering springs? I know that can shorten the life of the FSDs since they're meant for stock springs.
#125
I've had FSDs on my other car ('08 Mazda 3) for over 4 years and about 50K miles with no problems.
If your FSD's are leaking, they will definitely be warrantied. Koni is good about honoring their warranty. I once ordered a shock from them that arrived with the spring plate loose, and they sent me another one and gave me a label for return shipping. So you'll pay half up front and then be refunded once they get your leaking struts. You'll have to check with them and see if the shipping is covered too.
Are you using lowering springs? I know that can shorten the life of the FSDs since they're meant for stock springs.
If your FSD's are leaking, they will definitely be warrantied. Koni is good about honoring their warranty. I once ordered a shock from them that arrived with the spring plate loose, and they sent me another one and gave me a label for return shipping. So you'll pay half up front and then be refunded once they get your leaking struts. You'll have to check with them and see if the shipping is covered too.
Are you using lowering springs? I know that can shorten the life of the FSDs since they're meant for stock springs.