Does anyone know how to apply grease using the provided zerks? I believe it should allow you to add grease without removing the bushing mounts, correct. Bought a grease gun from an auto shop, sales guy says zerks are universal but when I attached to zerk all that happen is grease comes oozing out like it back fired LOL... Which gun should I purchase.

Thanks in advance.

 

I had one of the bushings installed slightly wrong where the hole in the bushing did not line up with the hole in the bracket. This could be the issue, there is not much room for misalignment.

It won't take much grease, either. One or two pumps will get grease squirting out between the bar and bushing.

Good luck,
Mike

 

Only takes a little grease and once it's full it will come back out

Also make sure the hole isn't clogged up

 

That's my worry, I checked all bolts and all was fine. Reason behind this whole ordeal is because I was hearing a creak noise on the passenger side. So, I figured get it up on the lift, check all my bolts, reposition to the stiffer position and re-grease via the zerks. All went well except that the zerks would not take the grease. I was thinking that the gun I used was not connecting properly to the zerk. I get what you are saying about the position of the mount, but I double checked before fully torqueing it down. Going to have to give Way a call tomorrow and see what he has to say.

Other than the noise, using the Full Stiffness setting is by far the best way to drive w/this set up. The H-Sport compliments my JCW set-up perfectly. The only way I could even break loose is if I did something crazy. That kind of fun should only be kept on a track. Day-to-day aggressive/spirited driving is only amplified, and in some way shape or form safer, with a set up that keeps you dialed in at every turn.

 

So, if the Grease/Zerk fittings are not the culprit, and all bolts are buttoned up, where should I start looking next. I read somewhere that someone stated make sure the sway bar is aligned properly. I checked, no un-even rubbing marks or odd clearance issues. Install had no snags. Only thing I can think of is, maybe my sub frame is not aligned Is this even possible. Threaded all torx bolts in by hand, and then tightened to specs. Let me know if I'm missing something. I am hoping that it is the grease gun connection, and not the components...

 

When tightening the swaybar links to the bar did you use the 'standard' method using an allen key and wrench? Or did you use the old technician trick by plaing one wrench on the nut like normal, but instead of using an allen key you put a 2nd wrench behind the swaybar link on the boot and tighten that way? Sorry if that doesn't make much sense.

Basically what I'm saying is, unless you used 2 wrenches instead of the allen key, then you might not have the bolt as tight as you should. Be sure to use the german torque specs when tightening the swaybar links to the swaybar "Gutntite".

Also, if your still using the stock swaybar links, some people have seen the stock links fail shortly after installing a stiffer bar. But since your car is a '13 I would think you're fine.

 

That would make sense. I'm sure you can apply more torque when tightening from both sides. Is the bolt on the opposite side of end link also a 16mm?

Thanks...

 

You know, I'm not sure. I just grabbed a few and found that fit, I didn't pay enough attention to see what size it was. Sorry :-/

 

Well, I went for a drive to assess the situation a little better. So here is what I'm hearing:

• Creaks under load or on very eneven ground
• Seems to be resonating into the cab of the MINI
• All bolts torqued to specs
• no visual rubbing

Assessment:

Seems that not enough grease was applied as needed for the Sway bar mount bushings. When the sway bar moves, its creaking, only place I can think of is the Pollyurethane mounts are rubbing the bar. Being the mounts are bolted to the sub-frame, and sub-frame is mounted to the undercarraige of the MINI; the sound resonates into the cab. Although it may sound like its from the right, I'm sure both mounts need more grease.

Plan:

Im going to loosen all bolts, to include subframe. Not going to fully dissessemble, but loosen enough to make adjustments and re-grease the bushings.

I do know now that the zerks are not universal. There are different adapters pending on the type of zerk that is on the bar. Once I identify the right fitment, my creaking should be gone and I can enjoy the performance benefits with out the anoying sounds, LOL...

I will let y'all know how it goes.

 

Also be sure to use the correct grease. I'm not sure off hand which grease everyone else uses but I use what the Forum vendors use which is from Energy Suspension. The part number is 9.11108. These only come in tubes so you cant use a grease gun and defeats the purpose of zerks, but thats what I use. I'm sure there are other options out there that you can use a grease gun with.

 

I don't think your issue has anything to do with the bushings. It's that your using the stiffest setting on a big sway bar. A larger sway bar makes the car ride much harsher over uneven road surfaces so any little squeaks or rattles you had before (which these cars are known to have plenty of) are going to be exacerbated. Put it on the softest setting and I guarantee that even if the noise doesn't completely go away, its going to be less noticeable. I only have a 19mm bar on my car and even I notice a lot more little noises over uneven surfaces. People just throw the biggest sway bar they can find on their car and don't realize there is trade off in NVH.

 

I have to disagree on that one. I had 70,000 miles on my '07 S when I put the 25.5mm Hotchkis Swaybar on full hard and no noise changes what so ever. Of course YMMV, but we're talking about a newer car than what I have.

 

+1

My R56 is only two years old come May. And I did not throw the biggest bar on just for ***** and giggles, I did it because it is highly recommended by many. I assure you that it has to be the bushings. The fact that they are stiffer than the softer stock ones, would mean that they require alot more grease. I believe it was an amature mistake. Once realligned and regreased all should be good. I hope

 

You should not have to loosen the subframe. The front bolts on the bushing are a pain to get out, but it can be done. You should just be able to remove the wheels and that is it. Remove the brackets and bushings, and grease liberally. You should also check that you can pump grease through the bracket before it is installed. That way you will know if your gun fits the zerks.

I had a squeak and grease made it go away.

After install before you put the wheels back on, pump more grease in there so that you know you can do it in the future. Wipe off the excess and away you go.

Have fun,
Mike

 

Thanks mbwicz, if this all works out I will deffinately be relieved. Gots to put this on hold due to a family visit up north. Going to have to rely on the wife's R60 for the weekend .

I Will post an update next week.

 

So just to re cap, just in case someone runs into my similar situation.

Looks like third time was a charm. I did the following readjustments following advice throughout this and other threads highlighting how to best attack any creaking issues.

o Removed both wheels
o Loosened both end links
o Took off upper bolts to the strut
Lowered the subframe, but did not fully remove bolts (left them in place but loose)
o Removed both bushing/mounts completely

Conducted the following checks:

o checked if zerk took grease. No Go,
o Shop had an extra gun, used the adapter off that, and sure enough popped right on
o Greased inside and around entire bushings.
o re-installed loosely but in place.
o re attached end links loosely for allignment R/L etc...
o Once all aligned, tightened down bushing mounts
o Tightened subframe Rear Bolts first, then the forward bolts
o Reinstalled Strut bolts
o Tightened up end links, 16mm box wrench on the inside, 16mm socket outside. Was able to really torque down
o added more grease to zerks/capped them off
o wheels back on

Results:
Perfect!!! No creaks solid/stiff rear end.

Not sure if I needed to do all above again, but I believe that if you have the opportunity, why not.

I believe it was a mixture of grease/realigning subframe/properly tightened end links (no Allen wrench needed).

I am so relieved and happy. Sorry for the long update, but I am just stoked that I can now enjoy the benefits of the H-sport, without a headache from noise.

Thanks for the support NAM.

Feel like motoring now!!!

 

Is the bar you installed part number 22800R?

 

Not sure, WMW has it's SKU listed as HsportComp

Rear 25mm adjustable light weight Sway Bar...

 

I believe that is a 19mm

 

That is correct. So I'm assuming this one is the 22810R then. I wasn't aware the bar was the same for the R53 and R56, which threw me off.

 

I installed the competition RSW on the mid setting and was also concerned about it being too much from stock. I also installed Koni FSDs and this combo made it handle like I never expected. I had stock for almost a year, so i had places where I threw it around for fun. After the install, I eased into those same areas and now I'm hitting those turns and corners like a madman. I had to do a very quick and sudden evasive maneuver on the highway and was shocked by how it responded. I couldn't believe it when it happened.

 

Agreed! This combination is fantastic on my Roadster. Even my wife noticed the ride improvement when we were at MOTD.