Going to install one. What are you guys running and was it easy install. I have 2013 clubman s.

 

I installed the H-Sport Comp bar in my 2013 Clubman S. Love it.

Not too bad to install. I found I had to fully disconnect the rear subframe to fit the new big-fat bar in.. Marked the mounting points with paint before removal. Needed a e14 (torx) socket to take down the bolts on the subframe. Everything else was hand tools.

Remove rear wheels.

Unclip sensor wires from Strut bodies.

Remove dust shields over lower bolts on shocks.

Unbolt rear sway links/

Remove rear shocks/springs (3 bolts).

Drop subframe (use a jack to support it).

Remove rear bar brackets on subframe.

Remove bar.

Grease the hell out of the new sway bushings.

Install new bar/brackets (new brackets are FAT).

Put it all back together.

Took two hours (yes I clocked it).

No need to remove heat shields or exhaust.

I have the bar on the middle setting, its a HUGE difference. Really makes the car a lot more fun to drive. Very neutral. Throttle steer on corners at will!

 

+1
And before you ask:
Cut a 2X4 to fit between the front and rear jack points, shove it clear up against the rocker seam, set the jack at mid point and lift each side to set floor stands at the rear jack points. DO NOT work on it using only jacks.

 

Thanks for the write up.

 

What's up with the mini madness one 22mm

 

. Very easy to do, I installed a 19mm H&R very happy with it

 

I have the Hotchkis Competition 25mm hollow, rear ASB on my R56 JCW, set on the middle hole, and really like it. Stiff, but not too harsh. but then, I don't drive any of my vehicles for comfort-it's handling above all else.

Had my dealer install it as I am not set up to lift my car at home.

 

A third recommendation on the H Sport Comp rear bar from me. Got mine from Way.

 

Forgot to mention, I got mine from Aaron at Outmotoring, where I buy all my stuff.

 

Another vote for the 1" Hotchkis tubular bar (oops, I mean 25.5mm). When I did it, I was able to leave one side of the subframe bolted in (only by a few threads), so that way it was pretty easy to get back in place.

Be aware when you are reinstalling the lower shock bolts that these can strip out. The published torque value is really high on these.

Have fun,
Mike

 

Can the sub frame fall down with the 4 bolts removed

 

Nope

 

Ok cool. I want to do it on a lift

 

Everything is easier on a lift if you have access to one that's always a plus, for this job, is not critical but like I said it will make it easier. :-) good luck

 

It's seems pretty straight forward. Hope so.

 

I did use a pencil jack... Make sure you don't stretch the parking brake cables, brake lines, etc...

I also used a lift. Very easy that way..

 

Seems like it should take about hour or so with a lift.

 

Wow - the book time is THREE hours!

Whhhhaaat?!

LOL.

I could drink 3 beers and still make it under that time!

 

I looked it up on ccc auto and it's 1.1 hr seems a little better

 

I looked mine with with Mitchell One.

They spec dropping the entire subframe.. which I guess adds to the time..

 

That's probably more like it. But I figure just a couple. I'll let you guys know what happens.

 

You don't really drop the sub-frame, just remove 4 (IIRC) bolts and allow it to drop a few inches to buy more space to maneuver the sway bar in/out.

Extra 15 minutes, at most.

a