Suspension Need Help on Spring installation.
Need Help on Spring installation.
Let me preface this that I am no moron (debatable) and I do all my own work. I have had no problems getting the H-Sport springs on all the corneres EXCEPT the drivers side front. I cannot get the &%$%^& lower control arm to deflect enough to allow sufficient room to remove the (*&^ strut from the shackle. HELP... Randy had mentioned that the drivers side is a pain in his how to but this is re[font='Times New Roman']diculous!
[/font]!
Any help would be appreciated.
[/font]! Any help would be appreciated.
for some reason, the driver's side lower control arm does not drop far enough.
best way is to jack up under the arm, compressing the spring. then hold the spring compressed with a spring compressor, or rig up some kind of clamp or strap. that will shorten the strut enough to clear the lowered arm.
best way is to jack up under the arm, compressing the spring. then hold the spring compressed with a spring compressor, or rig up some kind of clamp or strap. that will shorten the strut enough to clear the lowered arm.
Here are two "better than John's Best way" ways
:
If you have a very long prybar (30-60 inches), thread it through the lower control arm hole from above so that you can cantelever the lower control arm down while you shake the bottom of the strut from side to side until it is free.
If you don't have a long bar, you can use a regular one. CAREFULLY place the prybar below the brake line bracket on the strut (you will have to twist the strut in the knuckle to make it align properly). Then put the tip of the bar (with a rag over it so you don't chip the Wheel well paint and coating, over the rigid brake line bracket on the Chassis. Carefully pry upward on the strut while you shake the strut/knuckle joint side to side, until you are able to pull it tward you and free. You may bend the strut bracket a little, but just bend it back.
If you have any problems with this, you can give us a ding and we'll walk you through it.
Eric
:If you have a very long prybar (30-60 inches), thread it through the lower control arm hole from above so that you can cantelever the lower control arm down while you shake the bottom of the strut from side to side until it is free.
If you don't have a long bar, you can use a regular one. CAREFULLY place the prybar below the brake line bracket on the strut (you will have to twist the strut in the knuckle to make it align properly). Then put the tip of the bar (with a rag over it so you don't chip the Wheel well paint and coating, over the rigid brake line bracket on the Chassis. Carefully pry upward on the strut while you shake the strut/knuckle joint side to side, until you are able to pull it tward you and free. You may bend the strut bracket a little, but just bend it back.
If you have any problems with this, you can give us a ding and we'll walk you through it.
Eric
I used the pry down with a big lever method, and have had the struts out twice now with no problems. Just make sure not to lever on any ABS or brake lines...
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spring compressors? prybars?!
All I did was after removing the bolts and strut hat nuts, I took the
brake rotor and turn the entire control arm ccw (I think) and removed
the strut.
It was not much harder to do than the passenger side.
All I did was after removing the bolts and strut hat nuts, I took the
brake rotor and turn the entire control arm ccw (I think) and removed
the strut.
It was not much harder to do than the passenger side.
Dunno if this will help you but here is a write up from my install- might be something in there of use:
http://www.minimechanic.com/springs.html
good luck!
-S
http://www.minimechanic.com/springs.html
good luck!
-S
6th Gear

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,627
Likes: 1
From: Neenah, WI
If I remember correctly we used a combination of WD40/PB Blaster, swearing, and wiggling of the strut to get it out. I feel like when it was ready to come out it just fell out.
To get the strut apart we used a 6mm (i think) socket, a 6mm allen wrench cut off with a dremel, and a spark plug socket.

To get the strut apart we used a 6mm (i think) socket, a 6mm allen wrench cut off with a dremel, and a spark plug socket.

earlyApex- nice! I could've used that!!
What i did was to loosen the top nut on the piston shaft while the strut
was on the car (no need to hold the pison shaft) and after I took it off
the car, I placed my 1/2" drive socket over the nut, held the piston with my
allen key through the 1/2" drive opening, then took a channel-lock and
turned the socket. It wasn't bad at all, actually. :smile:
flyboy2160- the top strut nuts, and whatever bolt that clamped the
strut to the hub carrier. I did other cars after my MCS and my memory is
a little blurred, but I know I rotated the hub carrier to get the front
struts out on my MCS. It wasn't hard at all... I was questioning myself
why people were complaining.
I was more struggling with my spring compressor as the H-Sport's
spring winds are so close together.
What i did was to loosen the top nut on the piston shaft while the strut
was on the car (no need to hold the pison shaft) and after I took it off
the car, I placed my 1/2" drive socket over the nut, held the piston with my
allen key through the 1/2" drive opening, then took a channel-lock and
turned the socket. It wasn't bad at all, actually. :smile:
flyboy2160- the top strut nuts, and whatever bolt that clamped the
strut to the hub carrier. I did other cars after my MCS and my memory is
a little blurred, but I know I rotated the hub carrier to get the front
struts out on my MCS. It wasn't hard at all... I was questioning myself
why people were complaining.

I was more struggling with my spring compressor as the H-Sport's
spring winds are so close together.
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