I upgraded to a set of Hotchkis H-Sport camber plates and wanted to know how others have theirs set up.

Counting the lines on the plates from the inner (engine) to outer (fender)... Ive got mine set at the fourth line.

 

Get an alignment shop to do the work, there is barely a way for you to check what your exact alignment is.

 

It's actually pretty easy to check alignment yourself (camber in this case) with simple tools.

Edit - toe is also pretty easy to check and adjust yourself.

 

Adding negative camber to a MINI causes it to go toe-in. If you add camber you'll need an alignment.

 

Does anyone know how much the toe changes with camber changes?
For example how much and which direction does toe change with negative 1 degree of camber change?

 

Why not get it aligned? Save yourself the trouble and tires… ideally get the Firestone lifetime alignment service. It's about $180 for free alignments for as long as you own the car. (I'm not an employee, I just bought it and use it often)

 

I am interested in the amount of toe change with camber adjustment to know the impact if I temporarily adjust the front camber from -2.0 to -3.0 for an Auto-X. The amount and direction (in or out) of toe change might be acceptable for the Auto-X based on the benefit of increased negative camber.

I do not have any alignment shops near me that offer lifetime alingments. It is $69 for a 2-wheel alignment and $99 for 4-wheel. My alignment is already set to my specs but it would be nice to adjust the camber for Auto-X if I know the toe change.

I know I can purchase toe plates and do my own alignments but that comes with other problems such as two different tape measures not being very accurate (compared to each other), especially when trying to measure a 1/16" to 1/8" difference in toe.

 

Im in the process of buying the tools to do the alignment in my shop.

 

QUIKMNI, not that I doubt you, but would sincerely like to know how you would get 3 deg. neg camber w/o coil-overs. The inner fender wells pretty much inhibit anything more than about 2 deg. neg. with a conventional coil/strut. As for toe setting, just use zero toe. If you adjust camber, just re-align to zero toe. If you have a good, level place to work, you can use the strings method and use a length of thin-wall electrical conduit to check the difference between forward of the front tire to behind it. For slip plates under each front tire, I use two pieces of 2'x2' masonite boards with good 'ol wax paper in between.

 

Thanks for the alignment ideas.
I just used adjusting from 2 to 3 degrees as an example, I agree that I probably can not get all the way to -3 degrees. I have pounded down the wheel well bump and I know I can get to -2.5 but I am not sure how much more without interference.

I currently just leave the front alignment at -2.0 with slight toe out because I am not sure how changing the camber affects the toe.