Suspension Camber results from slotting the strut tower bolts
After lowering the car and still having only -.5 degrees of front camber, I decided to try the old school trick of slotting the strut top bolt holes to allow some adjustment. It was easy enough, I just marked and center punched a spot roughly 1/2" inboard of the existing holes, then drilled it with a bit that just fit the existing hole. I then removed the small bridge of metal between old and new holes with a dremel cutoff wheel. A little file action and spot paint, and I was able to move the whole top of the strut inwards.
How much did it help? Well, right now I am sitting at -1.2 degrees front camber, with both sides evened out to each other. I cannot see getting much more than that, as the inside bolt is as far inboard as the top spring seat allows, and the furthest forward bolt is near the reinforcement ridge on the strut tower.
This isn't enough camber for autocross or track use, but it sure makes for much nicer street driving. I have camber plates on the way though, as I need at least -2 to -2.5 to do best in STX competition.
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How much did it help? Well, right now I am sitting at -1.2 degrees front camber, with both sides evened out to each other. I cannot see getting much more than that, as the inside bolt is as far inboard as the top spring seat allows, and the furthest forward bolt is near the reinforcement ridge on the strut tower.
This isn't enough camber for autocross or track use, but it sure makes for much nicer street driving. I have camber plates on the way though, as I need at least -2 to -2.5 to do best in STX competition.
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JaysinStrife
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Sep 7, 2015 12:52 PM
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