Suspension Dirt cheap swaybar endlinks
#51
Well, I did up a couple of sets, and I'm using the through-bolt version of the end links. I installed a set yesterday, and found that if they're shortened for the lowered suspension, the end of the swaybar will interfere with the rest of the suspension (ie the hub carrier) Crap, I wish I'd taken some pictures! Anyway, they're on, they look pretty good, and time will tell if they hold up, which is my biggest concern, especially since they're on another persons car right now. I didn't have the opportunity to get the set on my car, but will in a couple of weeks.
Here's a shot of mine, without any hardware.
As for the teflon creeping under load, considering how this size rod end is rated for a 4800lb radial load, and this application puts in WAY less than that, I wonder if that's really a big concern. For dirt getting into the teflon and lapping the bearing surface, I don't see them moving all that much to cause rubbing between the surfaces, I think the spherical bearing is just needed to get beyond the complex angle change between the two mounting points. End links on other cars with independent rear suspension are solid, with little to no movement at the ends.
As a final note/question, does anyone know WHERE the stock links were failing in the auto-x applications? I'm assuming in the weld between the ends and the rod, but haven't found anything definitive, just that they broke.
Steve
Here's a shot of mine, without any hardware.
As for the teflon creeping under load, considering how this size rod end is rated for a 4800lb radial load, and this application puts in WAY less than that, I wonder if that's really a big concern. For dirt getting into the teflon and lapping the bearing surface, I don't see them moving all that much to cause rubbing between the surfaces, I think the spherical bearing is just needed to get beyond the complex angle change between the two mounting points. End links on other cars with independent rear suspension are solid, with little to no movement at the ends.
As a final note/question, does anyone know WHERE the stock links were failing in the auto-x applications? I'm assuming in the weld between the ends and the rod, but haven't found anything definitive, just that they broke.
Steve
#52
>>Well, I did up a couple of sets, and I'm using the through-bolt version of the end links. I installed a set yesterday, and found that if they're shortened for the lowered suspension, the end of the swaybar will interfere with the rest of the suspension (ie the hub carrier) Crap, I wish I'd taken some pictures! Anyway, they're on, they look pretty good, and time will tell if they hold up, which is my biggest concern, especially since they're on another persons car right now. I didn't have the opportunity to get the set on my car, but will in a couple of weeks.
I'm the Guinea Pig, they're on my car. So far so good after plenty of hard cornering. The real test will be april 18th at my first autocross of the season.
Paul
I'm the Guinea Pig, they're on my car. So far so good after plenty of hard cornering. The real test will be april 18th at my first autocross of the season.
Paul
#53
#54
>>i'm getting some noise out of my DIY end links that's really starting to bother me. it doesn't do it if i put the stock ones back on so i know it's the ones i've made. can anyone tell me how to silence these things. do the alta ones do the same thing?
I would suggest using a little bit of preload if you ended up using 3/8 bore rod ends. Since they're slightly smaller than the metric version, there may be some movement at the holes on the swaybar itself. A little bit of preload (1/4" on one side) ought to take the slop out of the holes. Also, make sure those bolts are 'farmer tight'and with lockwashers to stop 'em from moving. Once last question, did you use the through-bolt design, or the studded rod end version? (see the problems listed on the previous page)
Steve
I would suggest using a little bit of preload if you ended up using 3/8 bore rod ends. Since they're slightly smaller than the metric version, there may be some movement at the holes on the swaybar itself. A little bit of preload (1/4" on one side) ought to take the slop out of the holes. Also, make sure those bolts are 'farmer tight'and with lockwashers to stop 'em from moving. Once last question, did you use the through-bolt design, or the studded rod end version? (see the problems listed on the previous page)
Steve
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post