Took about 3.5 hours. But over all not bad if you have all your own tools. I'm so glad I got these. Made the car 100 times smoother. Not even exaggerating. Haven't got a bunch of turns in but seems great. Got both front and rear set at 50% right now. Got them for a good deal. You guys need to check out Importrp.com was just a hair under $800 and FREE shipping. They have all kinds of good parts for less on there.

 

Very interesting!
I'm in the process of planning my suspension upgrades and Koni yellows
are on my wish list.
Haven't decided on springs yet, lots of choices. I'd like an equal
drop front and rear ( 1" - 1 1/4" ) and would like to keep a civilized
smooth ride. (Linear or progressive, not sure what's best).
I know a rear sway bar mod is a must and adjustable
rear arm links.
Can you give any info. on the actually tuning in...camber, etc...

 

Strange...no shocks shown for my 2010 R56 at importrp.com...

 

Do the 2007 and 2010 not match??? Hmm check NM or Waymotorworks if they fit. If they do then just get some for the 2007. Unless I bought the last set lmao.

 

I have the NM engineering springs. They lower 1 1/4" and they are great. Hotchkis 19mm rear sway is great. But I autocross a lot and would prolly get the NM 22mm if i had to do it again. But its like another $80...
My camber is set at -1.7. Most people say that's insane but idc. Works great for me and doesnt really wear my tires that bad especially with a good toe set.

 

My stock shocks are long overdue for replacement...and I think I'm going to go the koni yellow route!

I had koni yellows on my R53 and they were fantastic. They are designed to work with lowering springs and have adjustable valving. For roughly $800 and free shipping?? I don't know that they can be beat. Nearly half the price of any coilover set I'd consider.

 

Get them. You'll love them.

 

Do these affect the ride height at all?

 

Been lowered on H&R springs with stock shocks for 2 months now. Stock shocks just gave way not too long ago & the car rides like a boat now.

Koni Yellows ordered & awaiting shipment. Can't wait to get them on my car. Hopefully the Konis will perform as well as all the glowing reviews that I've read.

 

Nope. Made for lowered car though. Regular Konis are made for stock ride heigth cars.

 

They are stiffer than stock but not as harsh at all. Certain dips in my road used to be *BANG BANG*. Now it's more like *whoop whoop*.

 

thanks, thats what I am after.

 

OP, if you have them set to 50%, they are way too stiff. Mini's don't run enough spring rate to justify that level of damping.

By overdamping the spring, all you are doing is packing down the suspension. Noticeable on several successive quick transitions

 

Seems fine to me. Don't wanna rip the rears back off to adjust =p

 

I recently had Koni Sports installed w/ stock springs and H-Sport RSB. I have mine set for softest setting. I think its a good place to start. When I do springs, TSW or NM, I'll adjust 1/2 turn stiffer to see what it does. I have been told that 1/4 or 1/2 turn is all it takes. I want the suspension to work now that I had an inch cut off bump stops.

 

How difficult is it to install koni yellows (fronts only for now) They arrive this Tuesday. I've done top engine work and a transmission fluid change... and what tools do I need? I have the spring compressor

 

The only thing that's really a pain is getting the stock strut out of the knuckle. You have to have some way to press down on the knuckle after unbolting the pinch bolt. I use a scissor jack and a piece of 2x4 but there are many other ways. Spray some PB Blaster to help loosen it up. You might be lucky and you can just grab the brake rotor and wiggle to separate them. To put the Koni in just put a jack under the outer ball joint and jack up to get the Koni into the knuckle.

You don't need any special tools other than a regular socket set and an open end wrench/allen key for removing the swaybar endlink.

Oh and some way to get the top strut nut off. There are a ton of ways to do it. If you have air tools that's the "easy button". If not there are a bunch of other ways to do it. Just google around. I believe the factory ones have the allen key in the middle which means you need the special $50 socket with a hole cut into it. I would try to get to it with everything on the car and the car still on the ground and just loosen it. The weight of the car compresses the suspension which sometimes helps to keep the strut shaft from spinning while you're trying to loosen the nut.

 

I second the PB blaster soak. I used a 2 lb hammer and brass drift to drive the knuckle off of the strut.

This is also a good time to install a set of camber plates (IE fixed or other adjustable) to get more front camber. Just a plug for the guy selling a set on the market, I'm happy with my fixed IE ones.

Have fun,
Mike

 

I have a question about my new koni's. Its probably not a big deal but as you can see the left/front top plate (or whatever its called) arrived in a fixed manner. The right/front came off sometime during the shipping process. Is this a problem, or is this typical?

 

That's your spring perch, and honestly I've never seen that, but I don't believe there's a reason why you can't undo the top nut and slide it back onto the shock.

 

the perch slides back on without removing any nuts it comes on and off.

 

It's fine. Just put it back.

 

yep just put it back in place. When it's all assembled the spring perch won't be able to go anywhere because the spring will be holding it down onto the strut body.

 

so where exactly is the spring perch located when the koni's are installed, and the car is on the ground? My guess is under the strut tower?

 

no the spring perch is what the springs sit on when installed. the bottom of the spring sits on the perch