another question I want a smooth ride how should I adjust these?

 

These are single adjustables right? Most people just turn them down to full soft but that's not necessarily the best option. You can actually under-damp a spring. I would start close to full soft and adjust from there. Keep in mind you might have to go stiffer to get to a better ride.

 

Thanks for the posts, do I need to get an alignment after I replace the struts?

 

Yes. You should get an alignment after messing with the suspension.

 

I have mine set in the middle - I didn't install them myself, but I do want to soften them a little. Can anyone tell me how many turns (full rotation) it is from full stiff to full soft? And should I jack the corner I'm adjusting are can this be done on the ground?

Last question - can you access the rears through the side panel doors in the boot or will I have to take apart the interior a bit? I'm assuming you would never have the rears set differently than the fronts... This is mainly a daily driver.

 

Sorry, but you have to remove the rear shocks to adjust them, (and take off the shock mount)

 

Grrrrr... that's not the answer I was looking for. Thanks for pitching in - I appreciate it. Looks like I'm going to learn how to remove the rear shocks. Not all bad, I suppose.

 

There are posts about how to drill a hole through the top of the rear strut "tower" into the back of the car to allow you to reach the adjuster. This would be an option if you were making a lot of adjustments. The catch is, this is not legal for autocross in the stock classes.

On the other hand, the bottom bolt that holds the shock to the suspension is self tapping. After a few disassemblies and reassemblies it will wear out the threads in the aluminum trailing arm. If this happens it can strip out and drop your car on the road or where ever. Just be aware.

 

There is not a great amount of adjustment, I think about 2 turns. According to the website, clockwise is softer, ccw is stiffer.

http://www.koni-na.com/****.cfm

You can do the fronts while on the car. I would go fully clockwise (count the number of turns). I think that 1/2 turn ccw was the recommended minimum (that is what I'm running). Adjust the fronts and see if you notice a difference. If you can tell the difference, then go through the adjustment on the rears.

Maybe on the rears you can just remove the upper mount and rotate the shock toward the back to remove. I didn't try it, but I've stripped one of the lower rear mounts on my car.

Have fun,
Mike

 

doubled

 

I won't be doing that much adjusting so no drilling holes for me. It really wasn't too bad of a job - I had a MINI tech here working on the side (bad strut mount) and once I knew what to do, he was there for moral support. I'm no mechanic and don't believe in taking apart things that I don't know anything about, but this wasn't a difficult job at all. And thanks for the heads up on that bottom bolt - good to know.

Yep - it is 2 turns and turns out that mine were set to full stiff. Not at all what I asked for when they were installed at a local shop. Could explain why my strut mount failed at 82K. In any event, I set it to full soft and love the ride now. Comfortable. Much more comfortable than stock before I lowered the car.

Thanks for the input everybody! Love learning as much as I can about this little car. And if I can say so, I'm just a little stoked that I was able to turn my own wrenches on this one.

 

 

I'm about to buy some used Yellows for $325 and they have 10k miles on them. Should I buy them new for $653 since I will have a warranty anyway? I just don't want to deal with them breaking but I know they're pretty durable. Opinions are welcomed:-).

 

How many miles are you planning on putting on them? If you're only planning on putting 30-40k miles on the car before you sell it then you'd be fine with used shocks. If you're going to keep them for a long time you might consider buying new. $653 over 5-6 years isn't really a lot for shocks.

 

I bought used ones about a year ago and have not had any issues over 15k.

If you have the money, and plan on keeping the car, buy new (like V10 said). If you just want to see if you like them, and potentially go to coil overs (or something else) in the future, save the $300.

Mike

 

Thanks guys I'm gonna go used then. I'm only gonna have the MINI for another 2-3 years.

 

Nope.
Adjustment is for rebound damping, it does NOT make the shock stiffer.

 

so I have done brakes before on the 2012 Cooper S my gf has.... I also did her sway bar. Do you think I should be able to replace her front struts if I am careful? (I wish we had a how to...)

 

Actually, changing the rebound setting does have an effect on the compression damping. It's not a profound effect but it does change it.


AND,


there is a how to on changing the struts. Just search a bit.

 

^ i think that is more inadvertent than anything, and definitely not consistent from koni to koni

 

I also have the Koni Yellow Sports all around with Tien S Tech Lowering Springs, Hotchkiss rear lower adjustable control arms, and I ride almost on soft. How I do it is place the strut/spring on the softest setting first. Then use the side buldges on the white adjustment tool, and mark two buldges from the arrow tip printing in red going clockwise, then move the arrow tip to that marking. So I go by buldges, you can never get it wrong and simply transfer that adjustment to ever strut/ shock. Right now I am 2 buldges stiffer from the softness setting all the way around. And the front bounces to much, BUT the rear is perfect!! So, I would say for the front, go 3-4 **** buldges in the front, and 2-3 max in the rear. These settings are for street riding, everyday use. I put about 60-70 miles a day on my MCS 06, so i'd rather replace springs, then springs and struts, so get them new if you can. I got a complete set via Bavauto about 3 months ago for 500 dollars, with free shipping.

I really hope my measurement process makes sense and works out for you. I can say this, once you lower your car plan on replacing alot more parts if you want to do it the right way.

i.e: (i did) : New front ball joints, tie rod end-links, "ATLEAST" an adjustable rear control arms lower (if possibly racing or want more caster/camber go with upper and lower) and if you go past 1.5" drop i would go with some sort of caster plates (strut mounts)

These are only my opionons based upon what I like and think is the right way to modify a mini's suspension in this regard (TOPIC). But customize to your liking, just don't go cheap or cut corners.

 

Here is my Bulldog_Blue lowered and freshwash!!!

 

did the fronts today. First one took me about 2 hours of fussing around inlcuding setup, finding all the tools, figuring out how to use what I had to work. Then it took me 20 minutes to do the other side

 

It's amazing how much quicker the second one goes....

any initial reaction on the change?

Have fun,
Mike

 

I remember when I had Konis on my Hondas... I'd have to drill the top hat to make room for the increased diameter of the Koni shaft.

Does any drilling need to be done for the R56 install?