Well, I am in the need of some expert help here. I am in Germany, got all my parts courtesy of the USPS man, and now I am stuck with a broken shock, possibly two, and no car...

On the rear shocks, after trying to understand how to set the adjustable rebound, and I am still not sure I got that right, I FINNALY got the thing "put together" only to find out the that top perches wont slide over the strut! So, after DRILLING them out, I find out the darn brass washer on top wont fit either. So I look at the directions, and it says use the lock washer instead. I do. I tighten them all up and go to put them on the car and...the shock FALLS OUT of the top perch. After looking at it closer, that is what expands out the top bushing and keeps it from falling though the perch. *Bangs head* So I go to remove it so I can drill it out as well. As I am trying to break the torque on the second one, I SNAP OFF the stupid little tab on the top of the shock. Oil goes EVERYWHERE. The tool I was using caused it to just shear off! This was the tool the mechanic TOLD me to use!

So now I have three main problems. First, I have a dead shock. I can't exactly go down to the local Auto Zone and get a new one because I am in Germany. And, until I fix it, I have no car. ONE of the rear stock shocks is passable. Can I run 3 x Koni Yellows and 1 x Stock Sport strut, all with the TSW springs until I can get a replacement? I have HEARD that these things can be rebuilt. If this is true, is it as simple as replacing the darn top and refilling it? It LOOKS as if this is how they fill the thing from the factory. At least, that is my guess.

Secondly, how exactly SHOULD I put these rears together. Is it normal to have to drill out the darn yellow washer and top perch? Parts in question are number 9 and 12.

http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/t/k/120.png

And when you adjust the rebound, and you push it in, is there a stop either way? It just kept turning and turning. I just turned it like 100 times to soft, then a half turn the other way. And, out of curiosity, how to people normally tighten the nut on top. I am trying to avoid a repeat of today.

Lastly, concerning the fronts. They went together, thankfully, pretty easy. However, the stock rubber pieces looked like butt. The dust cover doesn't seem to want to stay put and the top and bottom spring pads are torn slightly. Are these worth replacing? The bump stops look OK. I did the fronts in no time flat, so while I am at it, I can tear them apart and fix them if this is a big issue.

BTW, this is what my shock top looks like. And yes, I know this is the wrong washer. I was just trying to get the thing on wheels so I could roll it out of the bay and not pay overnight charges.




Times like this makes me want to just go down to the BMW and get a nice new 335i. Sigh..... Any advice oh experts of the Mini?

 

Please bring it to someone certified to work on your car, before you "finish," but something is still wrong and causes a dangerous failure.

 

And how exactly am I supposed to do that? It has three wheels. And I am not an idiot. I fly a 4 million dollar helicopter into combat, and have an Engineering degree. The problem is that my wonderful manual doesn't tell me how to put the after-market stuff together, and I THOUGHT that Koni would give some decent instructions. I have done this stuff before on my Dad's PT Cruiser and my friends VW Golf, but the MINI is the biggest PITA to work on I have ever seen. Anybody with some constructive ideas on how to band-aid the car along for the next week or two?

 

Put the stock suspension back in and give Koni a call to see what they have to say.

Bilstein sports are designed with a shorter strut body and piston than stock struts are, so mixing them is a poor idea.

You can be an electrical engineer (or civil) and fly for a Hospital. Neither of those would teach you jack about turning a wrench on a car. Edit: not meant to be rude, just making a point. Congrats on what you're doing - I know I'd enjoy it.

 

Or call a tow truck. This is why I had the dealership install my Koni's and do the 4-wheel alignment - wanted it done right even if it cost a little more up front.

 

1) Yes, to get you by for a short period of time you can put the stock strut on. DO NOT do it for long though, b/c there is a BIG difference between the yellows and the sport struts, and in an emergency situation could lead to a negative outcome.

2) I reaaaaallllly think the KONI Yellow are the same length as factory. So stack height is a non-issue.

3) Yes, it is required of you to drill out those pieces. Yes, it is difficult to find in the instructions, and is also a PITA to complete.

4) Keep working on your own vehicles. ZERO reason to be afraid of a couple of nuts and bolts, and do not think for a second a very well paid "professional" mechanic hasnt done EXACTLY what you have done.

5) The KONIs ARE rebuild-able. Youll need to contact KONI directly, or a certified rebuilder to find out.

 

I dont remember having to drill out the perch. I did have to drill out that brass washer that compresses the two halves of that big rubber bushing. I actually have to replace those rubber bushings on my mini since they are causing the rear to rub.