Suspension Best, in ride, handling?
#26
This is true, but they are also better matched to the OEM struts/shocks - this provides a better than OEM ride.
At 73K miles, though, the OEM struts/shocks might be giving up the ghost. I'd definitely check those no matter what solution you come up with.
If you want to change ride height, the solution would be coilovers. Of course, any time you change the ride height, you'd need to check the alignment. You can buy the stuff to do it yourself, and it would pay for itself in 2 alignments - that assumes, though, that you would want to mess with it yourself. It's not hard, though - just some time under the car!
As far as ride goes, well, it all depends on how you match up your spring rates, valving on the struts/shocks, etc. Any good coilover should have matched rates and provide a good ride on the street...
At 73K miles, though, the OEM struts/shocks might be giving up the ghost. I'd definitely check those no matter what solution you come up with.
If you want to change ride height, the solution would be coilovers. Of course, any time you change the ride height, you'd need to check the alignment. You can buy the stuff to do it yourself, and it would pay for itself in 2 alignments - that assumes, though, that you would want to mess with it yourself. It's not hard, though - just some time under the car!
As far as ride goes, well, it all depends on how you match up your spring rates, valving on the struts/shocks, etc. Any good coilover should have matched rates and provide a good ride on the street...
#27
lookin for cake
I think the quality of aftermarket parts makes for the better ride and better handling.For example, the Konis have a running damping adjustment and some springs a dual or progressive rate. The stockers are developed with price as a consideration, that’s why I should be able to have my (expensive) cake and eat it too. I just have to figure out if a suspension like that exists.
#28
IMHO, stock springs and FSD's are a great combination. You will almost never bottom out while cornering with the stock springs, so stiffer springs will only make the ride worse.
The FSD's are essentially a progressive-rate shock, and remove the need for progressive-rate springs (which have a tendency to feel annoyingly non-linear when the body rolls while you are setting your line in a corner). The FSD's are stiffer than stock in body roll, once you get past the softer initial response.
If you want a better ride, don't even bother us by whining about it if you are using 17" or larger wheels - you won't get it. Lightweight 16" are the best bet for comfort with great road handling - you can easily cut the unsprung weight by 10 lbs/corner, which makes a big difference in impact transmitted to the car.
The FSD's are essentially a progressive-rate shock, and remove the need for progressive-rate springs (which have a tendency to feel annoyingly non-linear when the body rolls while you are setting your line in a corner). The FSD's are stiffer than stock in body roll, once you get past the softer initial response.
If you want a better ride, don't even bother us by whining about it if you are using 17" or larger wheels - you won't get it. Lightweight 16" are the best bet for comfort with great road handling - you can easily cut the unsprung weight by 10 lbs/corner, which makes a big difference in impact transmitted to the car.
#29
So, it looks like Konis are a good choice with stock springs and Ireland top strut plates for the mushrooms? I have torn upper rubbers too.
My 17"s with non runflats are pretty light, and probably lighter than some 16's .
So I'll most likely be keeping them.(I don't see too much diff between them and my winter holies,as far as ride goes, the little I do see is probably because of the tall sidewalls on the snow tires.)
My 17"s with non runflats are pretty light, and probably lighter than some 16's .
So I'll most likely be keeping them.(I don't see too much diff between them and my winter holies,as far as ride goes, the little I do see is probably because of the tall sidewalls on the snow tires.)
IMHO, stock springs and FSD's are a great combination. You will almost never bottom out while cornering with the stock springs, so stiffer springs will only make the ride worse.
The FSD's are essentially a progressive-rate shock, and remove the need for progressive-rate springs (which have a tendency to feel annoyingly non-linear when the body rolls while you are setting your line in a corner). The FSD's are stiffer than stock in body roll, once you get past the softer initial response.
If you want a better ride, don't even bother us by whining about it if you are using 17" or larger wheels - you won't get it. Lightweight 16" are the best bet for comfort with great road handling - you can easily cut the unsprung weight by 10 lbs/corner, which makes a big difference in impact transmitted to the car.
The FSD's are essentially a progressive-rate shock, and remove the need for progressive-rate springs (which have a tendency to feel annoyingly non-linear when the body rolls while you are setting your line in a corner). The FSD's are stiffer than stock in body roll, once you get past the softer initial response.
If you want a better ride, don't even bother us by whining about it if you are using 17" or larger wheels - you won't get it. Lightweight 16" are the best bet for comfort with great road handling - you can easily cut the unsprung weight by 10 lbs/corner, which makes a big difference in impact transmitted to the car.
#30
Assuming that "...Ireland top strut plates for the mushrooms" means their fixed camber plates, yes - a great combo.
And if you want a bit more cornering precision, consider urethane bushings for the F&R lower control arms. They don't really add noticeable ride harshness.
Then, of course, you'll want to look at frame bracing products... The list goes on for a long time.
6^)
And if you want a bit more cornering precision, consider urethane bushings for the F&R lower control arms. They don't really add noticeable ride harshness.
Then, of course, you'll want to look at frame bracing products... The list goes on for a long time.
6^)
#31
Yep ,that's what I meant.With torn rubber upper strut mounts ,what do I need to repair those? Bushings would be inexpensive, if they were not too much trouble that would be something to think about. Also I was thinking about a bigger rear sway bar, what are your thoughts on that?
Assuming that "...Ireland top strut plates for the mushrooms" means their fixed camber plates, yes - a great combo.
And if you want a bit more cornering precision, consider urethane bushings for the F&R lower control arms. They don't really add noticeable ride harshness.
Then, of course, you'll want to look at frame bracing products... The list goes on for a long time.
6^)
And if you want a bit more cornering precision, consider urethane bushings for the F&R lower control arms. They don't really add noticeable ride harshness.
Then, of course, you'll want to look at frame bracing products... The list goes on for a long time.
6^)
#32
Yep ,that's what I meant.With torn rubber upper strut mounts ,what do I need to repair those? Bushings would be inexpensive, if they were not too much trouble that would be something to think about. Also I was thinking about a bigger rear sway bar, what are your thoughts on that?
You can get replacement factory pieces, but I say get more negative camber.
BTW, both will compress over time.
#33
If you go with the IE fixed plates, you won't need nearly as stiff a rear sway bar, and that's a good thing, because it means that the rear wheels will have better grip than if a stiff rear bar is used (because the rear wheels remain more independent in their action).
Most folks who drive their cars vigorously on twisty roads seem to have settled on a 3-position 19mm rear bar set on the middle position, as you will see on the thread about the IE fixed camber plates. See this review for more info on sway bar stiffness.
I've presently got my 20mm rear bar set on its softest position, and it is just right for use on the local mountainous roads.
Most folks who drive their cars vigorously on twisty roads seem to have settled on a 3-position 19mm rear bar set on the middle position, as you will see on the thread about the IE fixed camber plates. See this review for more info on sway bar stiffness.
I've presently got my 20mm rear bar set on its softest position, and it is just right for use on the local mountainous roads.
#34
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