Today I installed a new set of TSW springs and Helix camber plates. I gently clearanced the insides of the strut towers with a big hammer as I've read on many threads here. I have no idea what my current alignment settings are, but I basically put as much camber as I could in the front until it hit something, then backed off about 1/16" from that.

After the install I've noticed a strange sound when turning - it almost sounds like a rubbing sound. After I've driven for a while it seems to go away. I haven't noticed any noises when hitting bumps, but then again I haven't hit any big bumps since the install to check this.

As a side note, my battery died during my 7 hour install-fest (installed other parts as well) and my roommate and I tried to push-start the car so I had to turn the steering wheel with the car off to point it down hill - would this have caused the strangeness?

 

Just your springs binding I would imagine.

 

I took out another ~1/16" from the camber plates this morning and the noise has gone away. While going over speed bumps today I heard a similar noise. I'm strtingto think this may go away after everything settles in.

Forgive my ignorance, but what is that?

 

It's what you just fixed!
Spring binding happens when the top spring perch doesn't rotate due to being pinched against the inside of the tower. The springs rotate when steering (also when compressing and rebounding, but not so much), so what happens is the spring rotates but the top perch does not and the spring pops loose of the perch to unload. Makes a popping sound.

As for the other noise, maybe a loose top mount strut nut?

 

Ah, makes sense. With my checking while on jack stands I saw the perch would be the limit for camber (especially after I beat the snot out of my towers with a ball peen hammer); I guess I underestimated how much clearance it needed.

EDIT: I would have beat on the top where the perch contacts, but seeing those welds there made me feel that may not be a good idea. Oh well, guess I'll have to live with whatever this is as my max camber I'll get until I move up to smaller diameter springs with coilovers.

I doubt the top mount nut is loose - I torqued it down to the value specified in the writeup here using the correct tools (special split socket tool with hex head wrench and cheater bar attached to hex head to get enough torque). Maybe I should re-check it later when I have time.