...adding to Greg's description...if you move the control arm up and down you will see that the rear stud moves in and out of the rear bushing roughly along an axis determined by how the control arm moves over the front ball joint...since the control arm moves over the curved face of the ball joint, its distance from the bushing changes as well...I'm guessing, since I never plotted this, that this movement contributes to good toe control.

AND, YIKES!!! Kieth, I never replaced those bolts, just reused those each time. I don't know how I missed that in the Bentley manual...but I do follow the torque settings carefully.

 

Just to note, I have reused all of my subframe bolts. They are all original.
No issues. With the amount I remove this stuff and replace it, I'd go broke buying new bolts.
Not saying you shouldn't, but just saying that I don't.

I have torqued these to Bentley specs and have never found any loosness or damage.

 

Thanks for the options Dr O, and happy to be pushing the envelope of shotest lived OEM control arm bushings ever. Do I get a special prise cause mine only lasted 17K ?

Next time they go, or if I have an urge to upgrade, it will be on my nickel (instead of in warranty) and it seems that we have some decent aftermarket options to choose from.

On my easy-out fun, back from the dealer now with new bolts and ready to put it back together.

Also, I am sure many of us take a short cut or two from time to time, including not replacing one time use bolts, but I certainly would expect the dealership to replace them without fail. And since I killed one of them, well they both will get new this go round.

 

Not only does it rock, it swipes while rotating. The inner ball joint on the R53 control arm is slightly off-axis to the pivot shaft, and the arm is oriented at an angle, which may contribute to the multi-plane movements of the arm. This is actually a beneficial charateristic of the R50-R53.

I'm not a fan of the poly bushings, not only are they a bit harsh in cold weather, but they also cause binding at the limits of compression and extension. With the subframe off the vehicle, poly bushings installed, the control arm can bind at the top and stay there on its own, push the arm down and it sticks at the bottom. Before I tightened the bracket bolts after installing poly, I moved the arm up and down to find the middle ground for play. The OEM bushing will allow the arm to articulate freely without any catching point.

The R56 models have the bushing oriented horizontally (like many other vehicles) so it allows the pivot point to rotate on axis. Poly may be more appropriate for this application and other cars; below is the R56 on the left, and R53 on the right.


The R56 Bushing is stiffer, has a thicker shroud, and allows very little movement other than twist.


The R56 inner ball joint is in line with the rotating axis of the pivot shaft which contributes to even rotation with very slight rise & fall.


This a better view of the R53 arm, the off-set of the inner ball joint is evident.


Both bushing have identical sleeve measurements. I planned to swap the later model bushings until I discoverd their limitations and didn't want to relive the poly experience.

 

I am looking to replace mine as they are shot.
That would be these part numbers right?

Street:
Part # : N52613BAV

Track:
Part # : N52614BAV


What about the rear ones? Do they fail as often? ie Is it worth getting some now?

Inner:
Part # : N62632BAV

Outer:
Part # : N62633BAV

 

Ahhh, interesting to see that R56 arm. More like the E36 and E46. I like it.
Would like to see what the outer ball joints look like on it. Do the inners go right up into the subframe?

Thanks

 

The outer ball joint is on a long bracket, the inner goes in the subframe. You probably have visions of that trick BMW aluminum arm bolting up.

 

Is the outer ball joint ON the control ar then? Or like the R53, on the upright (hub)?

 

Sounds familiar...

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...trol-arms.html

 

Haaa, yea, I did remember that thread.
Still won't work.

 

On a bracket extended from the control arm, opposite the R53 method.

bahawton, unfortunately the ball joints go opposite directions unlike those on an E-43.

 

Questions: As I understand it, first you remove the bolts that hold the bushing housing to the unibody, then remove the bushing/housing from the control arm, then remove the bushing from the housing. Correct? What is involved in removing the bushing (while encased in its housing) from the control arm? Does MINI sell the bushing/housing in a pre-assembled combination, or only separately? TIA

 

Read this https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...g-install.html and the links in the first post. The OEM bushing can be purchased installed in the bracket for a little more than the cost of the bushing alone, and is how I would suggest replacing it. Pre-installed in the bracket, there is no need for the OEM tool or shop press and you would have the bracket in case you decided on an aftermarket alternative later.

I’ve made a tool for the R&R of the arm, and although cumbersome to work with, is a big help in the process.


I’ve seen a three jaw puller with adjustable jaws perform the same task, Chad Miller has a great how-to for the R56 in the second issue of Alliance magazine using a conventional puller for the control arm which will crossover to earlier models.

 

Thanks! Very helpful.

 

The only re-install advice I will offer here is, do not draw up the sub-frame via the bolts! Make sure you get the sub-frame positioned very close and then install the bolts. If you draw up the sub-frame with these bolts you may well strip one or a few. The rear upper shock perch should be installed in the same fashion - position it flush with the unibody first then install the bolt.

 

how'd you figure all that out?

Matt

 

...once in a glaxy far, far away I tried this with very poor results. Darth used his light sword and blasted away all of the threads...

Happend in 1981 with my first new car

 

Will a bad front or rear bushing in any location sound like a bad wheel bearing at low speeds?

I have GY F1 A/S tires that are more than half worn out and are a little noisy. At first I though the noise was the tires, then it got worse and now sounds exactly like a wheel bearing (can't tell front of back or left or right). I get a very pronounced Whomp, whomp, whomp sound that is associated with the speed of the wheels, just like a bad bearing.

I have pulled the two front hubs and spun them in my hand.... in hand they felt smooth, but obviously there was no load on them).

Now I'm wondering if I may have a bad bushing or two. The other day my steering wheel started shaking about about 60mph for a couple of minutes, then the shaking went away. Hummm?

06 MCS 35K miles

thanks

YD

 

Maybe the bearing in the hub is just starting to go, so it's heat dependant? The hubs have had more than a fair share of failures.....

When it's intermittant, just wait till it's there all the time!

Matt

 

Hmmm, almost sounds more like a tire issue, but certainly could be in the suspension. Have you tried to rotate your tires to see if there is any difference. Just for test sake, front to back and reverse rotation.

 

Maybe I wasn't clear. My bearing noise is constant, the steering wheel shake was a one-time short event.

I have rotated tires, pulled hubs, (didn't actually pull the rears because after removing the caliper and rotor I could turn them by hand with nothing touching them), and inspected everything. If I could find a willing/cooperative MINI friend, assuming their tires are quiet, I am planning on putting their tires on my car for a short drive... that should give me a lot of info. But have not done that yet.

Just wondering if a bad susp bushing could transmit or magnify a sound mimicking the sound of a bad bearing?

YD

 

Lift the front, grab the wheel at the 12 & 6 o’clock position, push with one hand and pull with the other and try to wiggle, if it moves, it is the wheel bearing. There are a few other possibilities but try that first.

 

...I have found that a bearing 'about to go' will show signs when hot, but not cold.

 

Dealer quote me a price in excess of $1,000 for parts, labor, and alignment to replace the front end lower control arm bushings. I think that is obscene.

 

at a high hourly rate.... You can drop the front subframe yourself without too much effort. Doing the bushings requires a hydrolic press, but as mentioned above, you can get the bushings mounted in the housings for about $10 a side more than the bushings alone. That means you can just swap the suckers out in one day instead of taking it all apart, taking parts to a shop, paying for the work, and then putting it all back together.

Depending on the age of your car, if you do it yourself you may want to do the ball joints at the same time as well.

Matt