Suspension Alta 22mm Sway Bar install + pictures + impressions
Changing the length of the end-links does not affect the stiffness of the bar or its effect on handling in any way. It's not like changing the setting on the bar at all.
The end-link adjustment just there to remove any side-to-side pre-load when you are corner-balancing the car with coilovers. A waste of money if you don't.
The end-link adjustment just there to remove any side-to-side pre-load when you are corner-balancing the car with coilovers. A waste of money if you don't.
Not quite - changing which hole you use on the bar changes the length of the lever-arm that twists the bar in torsion.
Using the hole nearest the end makes it a long lever, and the suspension doesn't have to twist the bar as much when it moves up and down.
Using the hole nearest the bar shortens the lever, so the same amount of suspension travel twists the bar more, i.e. it's harder to twist the bar that much, and so it resists travel more = stiffer.
Making the drop-link from the lever to the hub a different length does not affect the leverage that twists the bar at all - it just moves the bar-ends up and down at both ends, so there is no effect on twisting leverage or stiffness.
Using the hole nearest the end makes it a long lever, and the suspension doesn't have to twist the bar as much when it moves up and down.
Using the hole nearest the bar shortens the lever, so the same amount of suspension travel twists the bar more, i.e. it's harder to twist the bar that much, and so it resists travel more = stiffer.
Making the drop-link from the lever to the hub a different length does not affect the leverage that twists the bar at all - it just moves the bar-ends up and down at both ends, so there is no effect on twisting leverage or stiffness.
5th Gear
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 918
Likes: 27
From: Pulaski,NY
Old Rick is exactly right. You can make the endlinks any length you would like and as long as they pemit full travel and do not restrict the movement of the sway bar it will not effect the stiffness of the bar. I do like to set them so the sway bar is level with the car sitting on the ground. The biggest use is to be sure there is no preload on the bar itself. When setting this I like to get someone of my weight in the drivers seat.
Steve
Steve
Not quite - changing which hole you use on the bar changes the length of the lever-arm that twists the bar in torsion.
Using the hole nearest the end makes it a long lever, and the suspension doesn't have to twist the bar as much when it moves up and down.
Using the hole nearest the bar shortens the lever, so the same amount of suspension travel twists the bar more, i.e. it's harder to twist the bar that much, and so it resists travel more = stiffer.
Making the drop-link from the lever to the hub a different length does not affect the leverage that twists the bar at all - it just moves the bar-ends up and down at both ends, so there is no effect on twisting leverage or stiffness.
Using the hole nearest the end makes it a long lever, and the suspension doesn't have to twist the bar as much when it moves up and down.
Using the hole nearest the bar shortens the lever, so the same amount of suspension travel twists the bar more, i.e. it's harder to twist the bar that much, and so it resists travel more = stiffer.
Making the drop-link from the lever to the hub a different length does not affect the leverage that twists the bar at all - it just moves the bar-ends up and down at both ends, so there is no effect on twisting leverage or stiffness.
OK....not arguing here but by shortening the link you are also moving the position of the sway bar and its travel....right?
All you are doing is moving the both ends of the bar up or down. It does not affect handling, as you are not changing anything about how the bar works in torsion. You re not changing the amount of travel at the bar end, just whether it happens higher or lower.
Rather than leveling the bar, you are best off if you ensure that at the neutral position, the bar ends are perpendicular to the vertical link, whether that means anything is vertical, horizontal, or neither.
Rather than leveling the bar, you are best off if you ensure that at the neutral position, the bar ends are perpendicular to the vertical link, whether that means anything is vertical, horizontal, or neither.
All you are doing is moving the both ends of the bar up or down. It does not affect handling, as you are not changing anything about how the bar works in torsion. You re not changing the amount of travel at the bar end, just whether it happens higher or lower.
Rather than leveling the bar, you are best off if you ensure that at the neutral position, the bar ends are perpendicular to the vertical link, whether that means anything is vertical, horizontal, or neither.
Rather than leveling the bar, you are best off if you ensure that at the neutral position, the bar ends are perpendicular to the vertical link, whether that means anything is vertical, horizontal, or neither.
5th Gear
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 918
Likes: 27
From: Pulaski,NY
Red Bull
To do the final adjustment I like to have the car on the ground with someone in the drivers seat that has the same weight as myself and then set them so there is no preload on the sway bar. Frankly if you are not a track junky corner balancing your car for the street will likely be unnoticeable. If that is the case I would save your money for something that will give you some benefit and return them.
Steve
To do the final adjustment I like to have the car on the ground with someone in the drivers seat that has the same weight as myself and then set them so there is no preload on the sway bar. Frankly if you are not a track junky corner balancing your car for the street will likely be unnoticeable. If that is the case I would save your money for something that will give you some benefit and return them.
Steve
Red Bull
To do the final adjustment I like to have the car on the ground with someone in the drivers seat that has the same weight as myself and then set them so there is no preload on the sway bar. Frankly if you are not a track junky corner balancing your car for the street will likely be unnoticeable. If that is the case I would save your money for something that will give you some benefit and return them.
Steve
To do the final adjustment I like to have the car on the ground with someone in the drivers seat that has the same weight as myself and then set them so there is no preload on the sway bar. Frankly if you are not a track junky corner balancing your car for the street will likely be unnoticeable. If that is the case I would save your money for something that will give you some benefit and return them.
Steve
2nd Gear
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 129
Likes: 2
From: Ontario, Canada
I got the 20mm bar installed today, replacing a 22mm solid Mini-Madness bar.
The 22mm was set on softest after I had IE Fixed camber plates installed in front couple of months ago. The car was showing considerable oversteer anytime I'd feed a little gas coming out of a turn - it really wanted to pull inside with even a little bit on the gas.
M-M specs the 22mm solid bar at 2.25x the OEM bar.
I set the new 20mm Whiteline bar at its middle position - theoretically 1.92x OEM.
The car became much better balanced, at least with all-season tires on - I can now go from mild understeer to mild oversteer by getting on the gas after the apex.
Yup - I'm pleased to confirm that suspension design theory really works!
The 22mm was set on softest after I had IE Fixed camber plates installed in front couple of months ago. The car was showing considerable oversteer anytime I'd feed a little gas coming out of a turn - it really wanted to pull inside with even a little bit on the gas.
M-M specs the 22mm solid bar at 2.25x the OEM bar.
I set the new 20mm Whiteline bar at its middle position - theoretically 1.92x OEM.
The car became much better balanced, at least with all-season tires on - I can now go from mild understeer to mild oversteer by getting on the gas after the apex.
Yup - I'm pleased to confirm that suspension design theory really works!
Thanks for the installation instructions Red Bull
1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
I've purchased Alta sway bar 22mm, H&R lowering spring and front and rear sway link.
do you suggest any additional parts to be purchased and settings to be done?
I'm driving the car daily but also I want it to be fun to drive.
and are the front sway bar and the strut bar are the same part or are they different?
and do I need to install one?
do you suggest any additional parts to be purchased and settings to be done?
I'm driving the car daily but also I want it to be fun to drive.
and are the front sway bar and the strut bar are the same part or are they different?
and do I need to install one?
Last edited by Thirsty Fire; Dec 25, 2009 at 09:29 AM.
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