Suspension Wheel upsize question...
Wheel upsize question...
Hey there. I have scoured the forums but cant find the answers to my questions.
I am new to the world of wheels. I would like to upgrade my stock 16" S-winders to some 17" aftermarket wheels. I am thinking of going with the Team Dynamics Pro Race v1 17x7 with a ET45 offset, 4x100 w/ 205/45/17 wheels (stock rec'd size; maybe a 215/45/17 if I am ambitious).
1: Is there any major change in the height that would require a camber/toe adjustment?
2. What is the offset of the stock S-winders? I think they are ET40 but I am not sure. Is there any major difference in handling between these offsets?
3. Can I just yank the 16s off and put the 17s on and enjoy them, or is there something I am missing here?
Thanks. Just trying to do my research committing the cash. Pardon my ignorance.
I am new to the world of wheels. I would like to upgrade my stock 16" S-winders to some 17" aftermarket wheels. I am thinking of going with the Team Dynamics Pro Race v1 17x7 with a ET45 offset, 4x100 w/ 205/45/17 wheels (stock rec'd size; maybe a 215/45/17 if I am ambitious).
1: Is there any major change in the height that would require a camber/toe adjustment?
2. What is the offset of the stock S-winders? I think they are ET40 but I am not sure. Is there any major difference in handling between these offsets?
3. Can I just yank the 16s off and put the 17s on and enjoy them, or is there something I am missing here?
Thanks. Just trying to do my research committing the cash. Pardon my ignorance.
1. Tire and wheel size does not change suspension geometry really. No need for camber/toe adjustments if you just modding the wheel/tires.
2. I'm not sure on the offset. I think it's 45, but I'm sure someone will chime in on that. There isn't an overly significant handling change from different offsets, but a lower offset does give you a wider track which adds a bit of stability through turns.
3. It's pretty basic. Mostly just bolt and go. You have an R56 so you'll want to get some TPMS sensors. You'll also need to check and see if you'll need hub centric rings.
2. I'm not sure on the offset. I think it's 45, but I'm sure someone will chime in on that. There isn't an overly significant handling change from different offsets, but a lower offset does give you a wider track which adds a bit of stability through turns.
3. It's pretty basic. Mostly just bolt and go. You have an R56 so you'll want to get some TPMS sensors. You'll also need to check and see if you'll need hub centric rings.
1. Tire and wheel size does not change suspension geometry really. No need for camber/toe adjustments if you just modding the wheel/tires.
2. I'm not sure on the offset. I think it's 45, but I'm sure someone will chime in on that. There isn't an overly significant handling change from different offsets, but a lower offset does give you a wider track which adds a bit of stability through turns.
3. It's pretty basic. Mostly just bolt and go. You have an R56 so you'll want to get some TPMS sensors. You'll also need to check and see if you'll need hub centric rings.
2. I'm not sure on the offset. I think it's 45, but I'm sure someone will chime in on that. There isn't an overly significant handling change from different offsets, but a lower offset does give you a wider track which adds a bit of stability through turns.
3. It's pretty basic. Mostly just bolt and go. You have an R56 so you'll want to get some TPMS sensors. You'll also need to check and see if you'll need hub centric rings.
I do have the indirect TPMS sensors (it's an early 2007). So, I should be able to just mount the tires on the rims and install, right? (Since the indirect sensor is not on the wheel/rim/valvestem).
What are hubcentric rings? How do I know if I need them?
Oh, and the OBC will certainly alarm. Do I just manually reset it and have it recalibrate to the new diameter wheels?
What are hubcentric rings? How do I know if I need them?
Oh, and the OBC will certainly alarm. Do I just manually reset it and have it recalibrate to the new diameter wheels?
DanF is correct. 16 and 17" R56 factory wheel are 48mm offset for both 6.5" and 7" widths. Going with a TD PR1 with a 3mm shallower offset will push the tire out towards the edge of the wheel arch [more flush] by 3mm, which is barely noticeable. The tire size you chose [205/45-17] is OEM and will fit fine with no rubbing even with the subtle change in wheel offset. Since you have rubber valve stems, the only thing you need to make sure of is the hubcentric rings needed have an external diameter matching the wheel bore and an internal diameter of 56.1mm. That is the MINI's hub bore size. You don't need hubcentric rings, strictly speaking, however they make mouting the wheels much MUCH more foolproof by centering the wheel on axis during mounting. This makes threading and seating the lug bolts much simpler. For future reference, here's a good checklist:
1. Does my wheel clear my brake caliper and suspension components
2. Does the wheel clear OEM lug bolts or does it require tuner hardware
3. Is my tire size able to fit in the wheel well without rubbing
3b. Is the tire diameter in OEM range [24.2-24.4"][if desired].
3c. Is the tire width reasonable [215 wide and less usually fits with no rubbing as long as it's not taller than OEM]
4. Is my wheel offset and width able to fit in the wheelwell without rubbing with the tire of choice.
215/45-17 is a very popular choice for lots of MINI owners, however it's worth mentioning that if you ever install lowering springs, coilovers, or aggressive offset wheels, the tires will rub the fender liners and wheel arches. This is because they're taller and wider than stock.
1. Does my wheel clear my brake caliper and suspension components
2. Does the wheel clear OEM lug bolts or does it require tuner hardware
3. Is my tire size able to fit in the wheel well without rubbing
3b. Is the tire diameter in OEM range [24.2-24.4"][if desired].
3c. Is the tire width reasonable [215 wide and less usually fits with no rubbing as long as it's not taller than OEM]
4. Is my wheel offset and width able to fit in the wheelwell without rubbing with the tire of choice.
215/45-17 is a very popular choice for lots of MINI owners, however it's worth mentioning that if you ever install lowering springs, coilovers, or aggressive offset wheels, the tires will rub the fender liners and wheel arches. This is because they're taller and wider than stock.
Wow. Thanks so much for the checklist. Makes a lot of sense. You have a lot of OEM measurements that really help. I guess this is all pretty easy when you go to a tire place but trying to buy these on my own and with my own research has been a bit more complicated.
Thanks for the help. I'll check out the lug bolts issue and whether the OEM ones will work.
One question though. You say 215/45/17 is a popular choice but that it is "taller and wider than stock." I know that they are wider, but how are they taller? If 205/45/17 is stock, how is a 215/45/17 tire taller? Or am I missing something?
Thanks for the help. I'll check out the lug bolts issue and whether the OEM ones will work.
One question though. You say 215/45/17 is a popular choice but that it is "taller and wider than stock." I know that they are wider, but how are they taller? If 205/45/17 is stock, how is a 215/45/17 tire taller? Or am I missing something?
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Quickly stated, tire sizes are explained like this:
215/45-17
215 is mm of treadwidth
45 is percentage of treadwidth and it equals sidewall height
17 is wheel bead diameter in inches
Thus, a 215/45-17 tire fits on a 17" wheel, and after calculating the sidewall height [215*0.45*2]/25.4 + 17 = 24.6"
To endulge yourself further, read all the awesome tech articles Tire Rack has to offer.
Cheers,
Ryan
215/45-17
215 is mm of treadwidth
45 is percentage of treadwidth and it equals sidewall height
17 is wheel bead diameter in inches
Thus, a 215/45-17 tire fits on a 17" wheel, and after calculating the sidewall height [215*0.45*2]/25.4 + 17 = 24.6"
To endulge yourself further, read all the awesome tech articles Tire Rack has to offer.
Cheers,
Ryan
Ahh. Someone told me previously (wrongly) that the sidewall height was an absolute number and not a percentage of treadwidth. That is why I didnt get it.
Thanks for educating me & appreciate the help.
Thanks for educating me & appreciate the help.
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