I'd like to upgrade the suspension in my Clubman S at some point, to accomplish two goals. 1. Lower it about 1"-1.5", just to get rid of that ugly wheel gap, and 2. reduce body roll and improve handling.

Don't get me wrong, this car handles better than any car I've ever owned before, but I know it can be better. So where do I start?

I didn't get the sport package with it, so I know I could upgrade the rear sway bar. That's a pretty simple/common mod to do in the Subaru world, and changing out the rear sway bar in my Outback improved handling two-fold. Is this something I should consider first, and if so, can I install it myself, or should it be done by a pro? Also does anyone know what size sway bars are stock in the Clubman S w/o sport package?

Second, re: lowering..

Apparently swapping out the springs for some H&R or Eibach spring sets is a pretty common thing to do around here. I do have a few questions though. First, I know that replacing the springs must be done by a suspension professional, since everything needs to be realigned anyway. But, I'm assuming the stock struts can handle aftermarket springs? Back in the old days, I remember that struts were often replaced with the springs, since the struts couldn't handle striffer springs. I'm assuming this isn't the case with the MINI?

Any suggestions you guys have would be fantastic! Thanks!

 

got a budget in mind? that should help focus the suggestions quite a bit.

1k? 3k?

 

The first question is: how much money are you willing to spend? That will determine the type of lowering options available to you.

Lowering springs are cheap [~$200 not including install] and effective at lowering, however you will lose as much compression travel as how much you lowered the car. In most cases you'll only end up with a few tenths of an inch of compression travel. Not sure exactly where you live in CA but that might just be fine. Here in Detroit, it's a bit rough, but still workable if you add strut tower reinforcements and don't mind bending a wheel every once in a while on a crater/pothole.

The next step would be value-oriented coilovers like KW variant 1 or H&R. These won't necessarily improve the outright pace of the car but will successfully slam the car and maintain some compression travel. These are only adjustable for spring pre-load and thus are optimised for a narrow range of suspension heights. They maintain the stock rubber top mounting hats, so there is basically no added NVH [noise vibration harshness].

Finally we come to the big spendy stuff. Cross coilovers are the street kings here at about $2400, however less expensive options like KW variant 2 or 3, M7 coilover, and BC's soon-to-be-released R56 application are significantly less. This class of coilover is at least adjustable for damping and pre-load, while the BC and Cross also have camber plates built-in as well as damper length adjustment. This gives full control of where you want the suspension travel and how much compression versus rebound travel you want for your application. They also use standard spring sizes so you can pick your spring rates to tailor the handling and ride quality to you preference. These are the ultimate in adjustability and handling, but are not for those that can't tolerate a rattle or squeak or some moderate harshness in ride for the ultimate handling.

Of course, there are the other bits beyond springs and struts. Lower the car much beyond 1" and you'll start needed rear control arms to correct the natural camber curve of the rear suspension. Front camber plates are also a good idea to maximize front end grip, and polyurethane bushings, especially in the front control arms should be very high on the list to tighten up the slop and improve steering precision.

I hope that helps as a quick intro!
Cheers,
Ryan

 

Take one for a ride before you do any lowering. I myself like the sporty/bouncy hard ride that you get with it, but a lot of people do not.
If you do change the springs, I would highly recomend a complete kit, i.e. coil over set up. its more tunable and actually rides a little better because it replaces the factory strut as well as springs.

 

Thanks everyone!

I was hoping originally to keep it under 1k, but it sounds like a coilover setup may be the way to go. I don't really want to risk bending a wheel, and I'm not into making the ride a whole lot harsher than it already is.

And about the sway bar? Is that a viable upgrade, or should I spend my money elsewhere?

Thanks!

 

get yourself a few fat chicks and stick 'em in the car....wait...who said that...I'll go find 'em...I apologize to any of the fore said people of the non-man persuasion who may have read this article...I was talking about your friend.

 

Oh just for the record; if you're running stock wheels, they're virtually impossible to bend. Not to say I haven't seen it done, but it's just really difficult!

Regarding the anti-roll bar question; it's an excellent upgrade! It will not only make the car feel "tighter" overall by reducing body motion and increasing it's frequency of motion, but a rear sway-bar will reduce understeer and help get the car to rotate in the corners. The "mild" rear sway-bars are the 19mm diameter choices; they make a modest change in the handling but nothing nuts. The "aggressive" rear sway-bars are the 22mm ones. They will completely eliminate understeer at the expense of top-speed "you can no longer crank on the steering wheel at 120mph" stability. Most sway-bars are adjustable in some way, to provide some dynamic range in their stiffness. If you're familiar with front-wheel drive lift-oversteer, and like that sort of thing, then a 22mm on full-stiff is your choice! If you're used to a Camry with 5 people in it, a 19mm bar on full-soft will impress you how awesomely neutral a car can handle.

 

If your not going to drive to agressive then a swaybar isnt really needed. But, I would highly recomend changing out the factory sway bar links, they are prone to snapping. They are only as thick as a pen. i changed mine out to Altas adjustable links and they work great. (i did have the upgraded sway bar already)

 

Great, thanks everyone for your input.

I will likely end up putting a 19mm sway bar on, with some replacement end links. I remember in the subaru world, end links were also really thin, and needed to be replaced almost immediately. Like I said, I didn't get the sport package option, so I figure there is room for improvement when it comes to sway bars.

I will be using factory wheels, but only for a short time. I'm planing on getting about 10,000 miles out of my stock runflats before they drive me absolutely insane, at which point I'll replace the wheels and tires with something nicer looking, and less head-rattling.

Sounds like for my needs, if I am going to do it, I might as well go all the way and get coilovers. Any recommendation on what kind? Prices?

Also, is the sway bar something I can install myself? I remember it being about a 45 minute job on the subaru, pretty simple. Is it simple enough for me to do myself?

Thanks!

 

Bigger sway bars will be the cheapest and probably easiest way to get a great improvement in handling without sacrificing ride quality. Obviously for the best overall handling, you must get shocks, springs, and sway bars all together as the suspension works together as one package....shock must compliment the spring, etc., etc.

 

I've enjoyed the H&R coil overs. I have over 80k miles on them with no issues. The lower edge of the chin spoiler is 1.75" off the pavement however, which REQUIRES some concessions while driving unless you like loud noises.

You might want to give Turners a call and chat with Kevin (whose credentials include crew chief for Boris Said a few times) - he is a straight shooter and knows his stuff.

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html...i&subcat_id=90

The 2007+ application is listed at $1,250 however the installation and MANDATORY corner weighting will bring the bill close to 2k IMHO.

On my R53 with good tires I can pull over 1.1g in dry pavement with little body roll - and still drive on normal streets without a kidney belt and mouth protector.

Normal in this case means normal for New England....

Mind you this is the only setup I've ever tried so I can not make any recommendation based on comparison among the top solutions.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

So, to resurrect an old thread..

I'm getting ready to purchase my suspension upgrades and I have a few more questions.

I've been looking at the Alta Mini Performance sport suspension upgrade kit which includes H&R springs, a 19mm sway bar, and alta endlinks. Has anyone installed this, and what do you think? I'm concerned about the ride quality, and losing that much compression travel. Any input would help.

If I get that kit, will I have to get a camber kit as well?

In the end, I'd really just like to know what's the best way to lower it and improve handling for (ideally) under $1,000? I did look at the M7 coilovers, and they seem like a pretty good value. A little over my budget but if it's a significantly better idea to go that route, I can make it happen.

Any input would be very helpful!

 

if possible do the M7 coilovers, I was in the same situation as you. I was about to get the H&R springs, but I heard that it makes the car even more stiff, and its tough enough already, so I ordered the M7's this past week. This will be my first set of coilovers, all my previous cars were lowered with springs and my current xB's suspension is way to tough. So I thought I would do it right this time and get some decent coilovers, looking to drop the car 1.25 all around.

 

Hi... look at the BC Coilovers (yes ... I sell them)
Ride height adjustable, compression/ rebound adjustable, front camber plates and, rear top mount "pillow ball" mounting ... $1075 at your door !

A sway bay is an excelent addition and the end links have proven to be a bit of a week link (pun ... ha ha ) ... also if your going more than about 3/4 " lower adjustable control arms may be a good idea.

Don't forget to get an alignment.

 

I have read on this site somewere back, that there were some issues with the HR springs giving the car a slight wobble in the steering. One of the techs was posting that they have not found the reason for this and was working on it. I too notice a little on mine, kinda like a tire is slightly out of balance. It's not enough to bother you, Or affect the performance, but is enough that you notice it.

 

REAR BAR! I use the JCW bar and it turns in like a go cart.

 

I have the RSpeed 22mm solid rear sway bar on my Clubman (non-S) and run it on the middle setting. It really tightens the car up in the corners, and improves the handling. It took me 1.5 hours to install it and it was much easier to install than the directions indicated. If you decide to do the sway bar upgrade on your Clubman, you'll enjoy it! I'd reccomend a 22mm bar, solid, set in the middle. That way your can loosen it up or tighten it up later, to your tastes. Good luck! I wish I had bought a turbo, but have had great fun and success in getting my "regular" Clubman to better performance through simple modifications. Send me a PM, if you want details on the sway bar installation.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=158317

 

I will be putting a rear sway bar on my MCS when I get it in Dec (I grew up driving VWs and Corvairs. Understeer scares the CRAP out of me!!).There must be a trade off to improve handling so much. Is there any reason to go with a 19 instead of a 22 for normal to spirited daily driving? It seems to me that a 22 on the mild setting would give me more flexibility, and make me feel better about not buying the sport suspension.

 

I had nothing but full size pickups and suburbans until the MINI. With nothing in the bed it sure is easier to steer a pickup with the throttle than the steering wheel so I know where you're coming from. I have the sport suspension (and TSW springs) on my car and the whole understeer concept took a while to get used to. What you'll find is that the MINI will take corners twice as fast as you would ever dare to in a Covair or VW beetle. And at that speed you aren't even close to the edge of what the car will do. Drive it stock for a while before you start changing stuff. Then give my TSW buds a call.

 

double ++1 on this, plus they are quite reasonable, mine was $248 installed.