Suspension Tarett swaybar
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Neutral
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Louisa, VA
Tarett swaybar
Is anybody using this swaybar? It seems to be the best one available, as well as the most expensive.
http://www.tarett.com/items/mini-coo...sba-detail.htm
http://www.tarett.com/items/mini-coo...sba-detail.htm
Banned
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,673
Likes: 2
It's a sweet setup but it's the same as the Webb bar.
http://webbmotorsports.com/index.php...mart&Itemid=26
Great if your gonna build a true, dedicated track car but hardcore overkill on the street. You could save damn near $300 and buy a 19 or 21mm bar and be done.
http://webbmotorsports.com/index.php...mart&Itemid=26
Great if your gonna build a true, dedicated track car but hardcore overkill on the street. You could save damn near $300 and buy a 19 or 21mm bar and be done.
5th Gear
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 918
Likes: 27
From: Pulaski,NY
Lt hailbob
I have had this on my GP for two years and think it is a great product. Ira is a very standup guy and will answer all your questions very quickly. The build quality is excellent and fit quality is superb. If you factor in the cost for drop links the price is very competitive. What I really like about the bar is the adjustability. I originally was on the fence between the 19mm and 22mm bar, this adjustability range fits both. Some times the best laid plans change with new products or ideas and this product gives you the opportunity to adjust if you happen to go to coilovers with different spring rates. I have had no problem with NVH with this install either. If you do not plan on keeping the stock bar ( replacements can be had fairly cheap ) you can cut the old bar off and save yourself the price of a realignment without dropping the rear subframe. Doing it that way is a very quick install. All in all I would rate this as a five star product. If you want the best this is it.
Steve
I have had this on my GP for two years and think it is a great product. Ira is a very standup guy and will answer all your questions very quickly. The build quality is excellent and fit quality is superb. If you factor in the cost for drop links the price is very competitive. What I really like about the bar is the adjustability. I originally was on the fence between the 19mm and 22mm bar, this adjustability range fits both. Some times the best laid plans change with new products or ideas and this product gives you the opportunity to adjust if you happen to go to coilovers with different spring rates. I have had no problem with NVH with this install either. If you do not plan on keeping the stock bar ( replacements can be had fairly cheap ) you can cut the old bar off and save yourself the price of a realignment without dropping the rear subframe. Doing it that way is a very quick install. All in all I would rate this as a five star product. If you want the best this is it.
Steve
2nd Gear
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
From: Oceanside, CA
I second the itch.
If you add up the time savings of cutting out the bar instead of dropping the subframe, not messing with the alignment, the price of the included endlinks, and the "infinite" adjustability of the Tarret bar, you'll see that it's really a good deal. You can do the whole install yourself in about two hours if you cut out the old bar.
I've adjusted mine several times by about a 1/4" each time until I found the ideal spot for my driving.
One tip that I got (after visiting Ira's house
) is to grease all the bushing blocks even though Webb says you don't need to. Note that Ira's been designing and making bars like this one for Porsche racing for years. He knows what he's doing.
I second the 5-star ranking. Oh yeah, and buy it from him as his support tends to be better than Randy's as Randy travels a bunch.
Darren
If you add up the time savings of cutting out the bar instead of dropping the subframe, not messing with the alignment, the price of the included endlinks, and the "infinite" adjustability of the Tarret bar, you'll see that it's really a good deal. You can do the whole install yourself in about two hours if you cut out the old bar.
I've adjusted mine several times by about a 1/4" each time until I found the ideal spot for my driving.
One tip that I got (after visiting Ira's house
) is to grease all the bushing blocks even though Webb says you don't need to. Note that Ira's been designing and making bars like this one for Porsche racing for years. He knows what he's doing.I second the 5-star ranking. Oh yeah, and buy it from him as his support tends to be better than Randy's as Randy travels a bunch.
Darren
6th Gear
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,301
Likes: 1
The only two components I retained after de-tuning the car was the Webb/Tarret rear sway bar and the Power flex front LCA bushings.
The bar works great with either the stock or JCW suspension. You may encounter a little difficulty with bushing alignment. Ira sent me new bushings at his cost, but I still cannot remove all of the bind at the bushing. This is basically due to mis-aligned holes in the Mini rear sub-frame. Although the new bushings offer elongated slots for the nuts, my bind is in the other direction. I removed as much material as I think is appropriate but it's still not perfect.
My bar may have also been an early build, so the splines left ot right do not line up perfectly - the bar ends do not sit parallel with one another. This is not really a problem if you have adjustable endlinks. I'm using the stockers now and I definately need one adjustable endlink. Randy did not send my bar with endlinks...with endlinks this is a superb value!
The bar works great with either the stock or JCW suspension. You may encounter a little difficulty with bushing alignment. Ira sent me new bushings at his cost, but I still cannot remove all of the bind at the bushing. This is basically due to mis-aligned holes in the Mini rear sub-frame. Although the new bushings offer elongated slots for the nuts, my bind is in the other direction. I removed as much material as I think is appropriate but it's still not perfect.
My bar may have also been an early build, so the splines left ot right do not line up perfectly - the bar ends do not sit parallel with one another. This is not really a problem if you have adjustable endlinks. I'm using the stockers now and I definately need one adjustable endlink. Randy did not send my bar with endlinks...with endlinks this is a superb value!
Last edited by meb; Sep 2, 2008 at 10:56 AM.
5th Gear
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 918
Likes: 27
From: Pulaski,NY
Darren
I have never lubed my bushings as per the instructions and all has been fine. That being said I am always looking for things to maintenance on my car. What was the suggested lube?
Thanks, Steve
I have never lubed my bushings as per the instructions and all has been fine. That being said I am always looking for things to maintenance on my car. What was the suggested lube?
Thanks, Steve
I second the itch.
If you add up the time savings of cutting out the bar instead of dropping the subframe, not messing with the alignment, the price of the included endlinks, and the "infinite" adjustability of the Tarret bar, you'll see that it's really a good deal. You can do the whole install yourself in about two hours if you cut out the old bar.
I've adjusted mine several times by about a 1/4" each time until I found the ideal spot for my driving.
One tip that I got (after visiting Ira's house ) is to grease all the bushing blocks even though Webb says you don't need to. Note that Ira's been designing and making bars like this one for Porsche racing for years. He knows what he's doing.
I second the 5-star ranking. Oh yeah, and buy it from him as his support tends to be better than Randy's as Randy travels a bunch.
Darren
If you add up the time savings of cutting out the bar instead of dropping the subframe, not messing with the alignment, the price of the included endlinks, and the "infinite" adjustability of the Tarret bar, you'll see that it's really a good deal. You can do the whole install yourself in about two hours if you cut out the old bar.
I've adjusted mine several times by about a 1/4" each time until I found the ideal spot for my driving.
One tip that I got (after visiting Ira's house
) is to grease all the bushing blocks even though Webb says you don't need to. Note that Ira's been designing and making bars like this one for Porsche racing for years. He knows what he's doing.I second the 5-star ranking. Oh yeah, and buy it from him as his support tends to be better than Randy's as Randy travels a bunch.
Darren
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5th Gear
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 918
Likes: 27
From: Pulaski,NY
drsilvermini
The bars are the same so are the endlinks. Tarett is the mfg and supplied them to Webb.
Steve
The bars are the same so are the endlinks. Tarett is the mfg and supplied them to Webb.
Steve
Reviving old thread with a quick ? As my car is inaccessible now, I can't get to my Webb bar to measure it. Does anyone know what diameter it is? I see Tarett has two different diameters, 23.8mm and 25mm. Of course the wall thickness could be different between the Webb and Tarett or the two different Tarett's.
I find the Webb bar to be stiffer than I like and it can't really be adjusted to full soft without some kind of interference through it's normal range of motion. Maybe I could if the end links had a larger range of adjustment.
I find the Webb bar to be stiffer than I like and it can't really be adjusted to full soft without some kind of interference through it's normal range of motion. Maybe I could if the end links had a larger range of adjustment.
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