Well I am going to take the car apart again tonight. While the rear strut is out and the wheel is off I will check the end links again. It sure sounds like they are rattling. If this is something that rattles because it's a racing part then I might switch it out. It's not super loud but I know you can hear it from outside the car. I wouldn't want to drive a nice looking mini around and have people hear a rattle.

As for the ring clamp things.. There was just no way they would fit in the inside of the mounts on my car. And they probably wont fit on the outside of the mount also. I will probably use it as pictured above. To keep the end links in place when it's set at a really stiff setting.

 

If you are going that far then unscrew the end and place anti seize on the threads. You can never have too much of it. I have a saying "anti size gets everywhere" When you use it you will understand.

Post the results of what you find out. I know what you mean about having a nice Mini and the noises. I run DS2500 Ferodo which is a race pad and the have then metallic scaping sound all the time. Everyone always looks or points at the wheels thinking there is something wrong.

 

Ya. I like the performance aspect. But when I roll into a parking lot I dont want the attention to go to the rattle. It would be hard to tell people "Pay no attention to the rattle. It's a racing bar."

 

Just got back home from the install. A buddy from the club helped me out a TON with the install of my TSW springs and IE adj. camber plates.

He tuned up the rear end links for the IE bar.. Went for a test drive and they STILL rattle.

What should be the issue? Some people say they dont get any rattle. Then some other chime in with complaints. Should I try to trade out the links for new ones? I do not want to deal with a rattle that can be heard inside the outside the car this much. I want to have a good impression while driving around.
If I drive by in a parking lot and there is a loud rattle it will be hard to explain and is just tacky.
The bar works awesome. I think if they did all rattle then it would be a perfect race only bar.


Any ideas?

 

Call and ask Jeff @ I/E to swap you out a pair of end links. If that still does not clear up you can either build your own rod ends in a better grade or get a set of ALTA’s or make your own. Without seeing the end link I can’t tell why it is still making noise. But I do know that they are not the best quality rod ends and perhaps they have some quality quarks.
Ireland Engineering
http://www.bmw2002.com/

Rod End Supply
http://www.rodendsupply.com/

 

They are going to swap them out for me. Very nice to deal with and the swaping out is cool.

 

Hey Bang110, it was good to talk today, I'm happy to hear your call to IE went well and look forward to the followup post after you get the new ones.

 

I got the new joints in the mail. But I moved and still haven't had the day off or the time to put them on. I will let you know the turnout.

 

Every I.E. sway bar i know of rattles after the break in period. for some its a big deal, and for others its not. I really dont notice the rattle anymore, its just when people get in my car that i notice it, haha. I thought about ordering a new set of links, but just havent.

I have talked with lots of people about this and they rattle becuase they are whats called a dry link. Im sure someone on here is gonna try and tell me otherwise, but no big deal. All im saying is, Bang110, i can guarantee that once you break in those links, they will rattle. Im not trying to bust your chops, im just trying to let you know. And pretty pretty please post up if they dont end up ratting, cause id love to do whatever you did. hehe

 

OK after more research and customer feedback and testing we have things to share and confirm. If the unit is install as designed it will make little to no noise.

1st issue, don't push the C-clamp adjuster too far back. If it's too far back, within 3/4 of the end, it will hit and rub on the control/trailing arm under movement.
This pic is a good place to start with the adjuster. The black marks are inch from the end of bar towards the bend. The C-clamp is centered on the 2 inch mark.

Also note that the disk on the end is not designed to be there, but since it's a PIA to fit next to the body mount we just use them as a safety if the C-clamp, which never has, does get loose.

Note in the below pic that you want the C-clamp in such a way that it doesn't bind on the joint as in pic.




I hope this helps you adjust and install the bar with less noise. It's a great value and works really well if installed with a little extra TLC.
Thanks Dustin

 

Thanks for the tips

I have this bar on my MCS and so far i'm pretty pleased with it.

 

The trailing arm rubbing problem sighted above is not limited to the IE bar. Swaybar manufacturers should be making a component that also fastens to the the lower endlink pick-up point that allows the bottom portion of the endlink to move in sync with top...keeping these in as near vertical position as possible and from contacting other components.

The contact issue is just bewildering to me. That evidence should have been discovered thru preliminary R&D since contact will cause an immediate slide.
The entire bar end should be, at some level, available otherwise the range of adjustment is less.

The Webb bar has the same problem...some creative shims help, but do not cure this problem.