Can you do it solo or does it require two people?

I've done lots of spring changes (Not on a Mini though) and it's been helpful to have two people. What is your opinion of doing it alone?

Tankoo!

-Jim

 

You can if you have a spring compressor. The front rates require it.

I did it alone but in race shop with all the air tools and spring compressor.

Good Luck!

_________________
2003 MCS LY/W Aero Body Kit w/painted arches, Package #1 & #2, Leather, 17's, Nav, HK, Mini Bike Rack, Borla, H-Sport Springs, Short Shifter, etc... (Ordered Works Pkg....waiting) CA Plate "WORKS S"

 

There is a how-to with pics on the mini-motorsport.com website.

Ulrich

 

Bud_SD,

I purchased a set of ratcheting winch straps and did them myself. Easy!!!! Takes longer to get the car up on jack stands! I didn't even need to use them on the rear, just compressed them myself.

Good Luck!

Jason

 

Jay,

I did all four and did them myself. One person can do it but remember to loosen the top nut on the front struts while still on car. I found that to be easier. You should get a spring compressor, makes it that much easier.


Peter

 

Thanks for all the speedy replies; I will have a spring compressor. I failed to mention that part.

-Jim

 

With a spring compressor it's cake. Did it the other day....all four off the car, resprung and back on in under an hour. YMMV. If you have air tools, it's a snap.

R

 

Do you need new struts with the new springs or stock ones are okay?

 

Stock struts are just fine. Had my KWs on for some time now with no ill effects other than my driver's seat squeeking, ha! Even the aggressive KWs spring height drop of around 1.5" around leaves plenty of travel for speed bumps and pot holes. Have only hit the bumpstops when I would've hit them anyway if stock (ie nasty speedbump + 40mph = bumpstop slam..ha!) I think Rspeed is selling Koni yellows though.

R

 

Do you guys want before, during, and after pics/video?

-Jim

 

Of coarse!




His, Chile RED all over, Madness intake, MINI-Motorsport Airbox Mod, Magnaflow Exhaust, BMP spark plug wires, RDR rear sway bar and Helix P/D 15% reduction pulley.
Hers, EB UJ on top and BONE stock.

 

hook em up Jayoung!

 

jayoung wrote:
Time lapse video would be really cool!

 

using ratchet straps is very good advice, makes the job easy. The only tricky point is you have to compress the driver side front strut while it's in the car because it's a bit longer than the passenger side (read: British=weird!)

a few hour job, including beer-time.
Tell the Mrs. "thanks", cuz you'll love 'em! :smile:
Cheers,
Ryan

 

>>jayoung wrote:
>>>>
>>Time lapse video would be really cool!

Like on Monster Garage?

 

>>The only tricky point is you have to compress the driver side front strut while it's in the car because it's a bit longer than the passenger side (read: British=weird!)

You know what, I've did suspension work on a couple '03 build cars last week and neither gave me even the slightest amount of grief (unlike my '02!!). I simply removed the sway bar drop link connection and the big bolt on bottom, then shoved down on the hub after lubing up where the strut sits. Voila, they both just popped right out, just like the passenger side. Then remove the top 3 13mm nuts. No issues going back in either.

After the hell my '02 put me thru, had I not done it with my own two hands I wouldn't have believed it! So depending on your build date, it may not be as bad. :smile:

R

 

So what is the difference between a ratchet strap and the "bearclaw" type compressor? The bearclaw type is the one I've used. Kinda like this:



-J

 

One last thing...

H-Sports will lower about 1" and give you about a -2 degree on the rear wheels, correct?

If I have adjustable rear control arms and 215 45 17's can I put them back to the factory camber setting without rub?


"Two trains are 10 miles apart traveling towards each other on the same track. One is going 65MPH and the other is going 85MPH. How long before the trains reach each other?"

 

Shouldn't have any issues with 215s and a 1" drop at all. I've got 215s and a 1.5" drop. :smile:

As for ratchet straps vs "bear claws".... personally I'd go for the "bear claw" as it's solid. Straps, although they could work, would be more susceptible to breaking/slipping and the ratchet cranks would be harder to tighten than using a socket to screw down the "bear claws". YMMV. $0.02

R

 

<<"Two trains are 10 miles apart traveling towards each other on the same track. One is going 65MPH and the other is going 85MPH. How long before the trains reach each other?"
>>

The answer is 4 minutes :smile:

If you can find bear claws that are thin enough they'll work. I'm sure ultra-huge vice grips will work too

 

>><<"Two trains are 10 miles apart traveling towards each other on the same track. One is going 65MPH and the other is going 85MPH. How long before the trains reach each other?"
>>>>
>>
>>The answer is 4 minutes :smile:
>>
>>If you can find bear claws that are thin enough they'll work. I'm sure ultra-huge vice grips will work too :smile:

-Jim

 

>>Shouldn't have any issues with 215s and a 1" drop at all. I've got 215s and a 1.5" drop. :smile:
>>
>>As for ratchet straps vs "bear claws".... personally I'd go for the "bear claw" as it's solid. Straps, although they could work, would be more susceptible to breaking/slipping and the ratchet cranks would be harder to tighten than using a socket to screw down the "bear claws". YMMV. $0.02
>>
>>R
>>
>>

Sweet! Thanks! Bear Claws cost 7.00 per day to rent. (shrug)

 

>>H-Sports will lower about 1" and give you about a -2 degree on the rear wheels, correct?
>>
>>If I have adjustable rear control arms and 215 45 17's can I put them back to the factory camber setting without rub?

When I added H-sports to my MCS my negative camber on the rear was -2.4 degrees and the front was out of alignment as well. I had a rear madness swaybar and rear H-sport adjustable control arms. You can check the alignment and put them all back to factory settings. In the rear you can choose anything from -0.5 degrees to the factory -1.5 degrees. if you want to corner aggressively some people like the -1.5 while if you want to wear out the tires less then choose anything between -0.5 to -1. I had an alignment speciality shop do my MCS after the spring install and set the back to -0.75 degrees with stock settings for toe in and camber for the fronts. Cost $80 and took about 100 minutes. The car handled and looked much better after re-alignment

 

>>When I added H-sports to my MCS my negative camber on the rear was -2.4 degrees and the front was out of alignment as well.


Ok, here is what I want to do. I have the RDR rear control arms (Top and Bottom) and want to have a STREET and RACE setting. This can be and has been done by a few people I've talked to. You jack the car and it takes about 5 minutes per side.

For long trips I'd probably set it back to factory settings. For the street I'd have it -0.5 to -1. For race I'd go -1.5 to 2.0 with a 1/16" Toe out.

See: http://www.grassrootsmotorsports.com/minicoopers.html

Now Randy at Mini-Motorsports told me that you can just leave them as they are after lowering and rotate the tires every 3K. Ryephile has had his on for awhile and his didn't look beveled at all.

I dunno...

-J

 

I've had the H sport springs, lower links and Madness rear bar for about 3k miles and are very happy with them. When we did the install with just springs the rear camber was -2.0. After installing the rear lower links we re-adjusted to -.75 (factory) and have been happy with the setting. Be sure to check all the toe adjustments as mine were off from the factory and these help balance the car.