Suspension JIC Magic/CROSS Competition Coilovers
That's pretty much what the directions said - before installing the coilovers, raise the lower spring perch so that the spring is snugly held between the perches, but no more than that.
That's how I installed them, and I haven't changed the preload since then, since the ride height is adjusted by using the threaded lower mount to adjust the length of the shock body, rather than by adjusting the preload.
That's how I installed them, and I haven't changed the preload since then, since the ride height is adjusted by using the threaded lower mount to adjust the length of the shock body, rather than by adjusting the preload.
.
I wasn't referring to your comment Chris, I was just trying to answer your question, sorry if it seemed like I was taking a shot at you. I was talking about Don's comment regarding the necessity of a rear sway bar when under normal street conditions I can throw my back end around with little more than a quick jerk of the steering wheel.
As to "Full Race Setups". Some people want to spend the extra 15k for that 3% improvement. I'd rather spend that money on mods that actually do something.
I can't think of any application for the MINI that these coilovers wouldn't be sufficient. Perhaps if you were competing in an international cup race or something against hundreds of top notch drivers
. For the average Joe Schmoe that used to go to the track with his stock suspension, these are night and day difference. 
As to "Full Race Setups". Some people want to spend the extra 15k for that 3% improvement. I'd rather spend that money on mods that actually do something.
I can't think of any application for the MINI that these coilovers wouldn't be sufficient. Perhaps if you were competing in an international cup race or something against hundreds of top notch drivers
. For the average Joe Schmoe that used to go to the track with his stock suspension, these are night and day difference.
Well, if you look closely, the alignment marks aren't in the middle of the adjustment range, so there's probably some camber dialed in.
Also, even if the alignment marks *were* in the center, I don't think that would necessarily mean that the overall camber was zero. There are other factors, such as the angle of the tops of the strut towers, that would affect the camber.
I think the index marks are just there so that you can set the camber accurately and repeatedly, not to indicate an exact amount of camber.
Also, even if the alignment marks *were* in the center, I don't think that would necessarily mean that the overall camber was zero. There are other factors, such as the angle of the tops of the strut towers, that would affect the camber.
I think the index marks are just there so that you can set the camber accurately and repeatedly, not to indicate an exact amount of camber.
yes... this is on a GP with stock swaybars
you may need more in the back on a regular S
you may need more in the back on a regular S
why is a GP different? besides the rear aluminum bits I mean? I'm running a 22mm bar
Thanks Jan, I already had your settings. I was curious about any others. I'll scan in my alignment settings printout. I believe I ended up somewhere around -2.25 front, -1.75 rear, and 1/32" toe in (alignment guys recommendation) on the rear and negligible toe out on the front (.05"?). The car was lowered about 1.25 from stock....but my feeling is the back is a tad low and will probably raise it up 1/4" in the back....
oh and 7 in the front and 8 in the rear
oh and 7 in the front and 8 in the rear
Last edited by PlayPlay; Nov 30, 2007 at 08:47 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mini Mania
Tires, Wheels & Brakes
0
Oct 1, 2015 10:38 AM
Mini Mania
Tires, Wheels & Brakes
0
Oct 1, 2015 10:17 AM





