I've had the parts in the garage for a month or two now, I'd been waiting for a bay to open up in the shop my roommate works at.

So finally, yesterday, the bay opened up and he told me to bring 'er in. We got started about 10:00 and had it all buttoned down by 2:45, including a break to run to the bank and eat sandwiches at Subway.

Everything went well, but I gotta tell you guys at m7, your documentation is horrible. I have half a mind to re-write it for you. The typos are silly as hell and the instructions are very poor. I can see how so many people have difficulty installing this stuff, though for us it was very easy.

Fortunately, the shop I was working in builds pro trucks and other off-road race vehicles, so I had access to just about anything I needed including digital snap-on torque wrenches and the most-important Nutsert tool. The tool included in the kit didn't work at all, the nutsert just spun in the hole we drilled with the included bit (there is no drill included as stated in your manual LOL). Fortunately, we had a real nutsert tool handy, the kind that works like a pop-rivet gun. Had to use a jack-handle and a piece of 4x4 as a brace to get the leverage needed to set the nutsert, but at least we got it done. This is something that the average joe in his garage at home could easily fall flat on his face trying to accomplish.

The first nutsert we placed got it's threads slightly mangled because we hadn't threaded to tool in all the way and compressed a bit too far. A 3/8" tap and a little oil saved the day on that one, much easier than trying to remove and replace the nutsert. On the other side, the first nutsert compressed without grabbing the sheet metal. Fortunately m7 included a back-up, but oddly enough they did not include an extra washer. Fortunately again, I was in a shop with lots of that kind of stuff floating around.

I was also confused because when installing the rear brace, the directions state to NOT use the included washers. Why include them? No mention was made for the center or front braces whether or not to use the included washers.

Why include them then say don't use them? Why say not to use them on the rear then leave me clueless as to whether I should use them for the rest of the brace or not?

I did.

I found that my mushrooming was minimal, and a few solid wacks with the sledge accross a 4x4 on the tower brought everything back into line. The FSB install was a cinch, though I think m7 should include a warning to not overtighten the strut mount nuts. I was aware of this because of the reading I'd done here, but only because some poor souls had the misfortune of snapping a stud or two.

I understand the torque specs are in the online pdf, but many people would just throw this on without going first to their computer and downloading an instruction manual, because it is such an apparently simple install.

A warning on the hardware packaging would easily prevent this. WARNING!!! TORQUE STRUT MOUNT NUTS TO 25 LB-FT or THEY WILL BREAK!!!

Needs to be done.

Anyway, everything fit fine, other than the usual hood-lifting. The RSB install was easier than I'd expected, but having good jacks and big stands on both sides helped a lot. So does the cordless impact wrench with assorted extensions etc...

So does ratcheting box wrenches.

Anyway, I love it. I can tell it is far more stiff than it was before, and took my favorite turn WAY faster than I'd have ever dreamed of in the past and did it with confidence.

I set the 19mm H-sport rear bar to it's stiffest setting after a test run in the middle. Maybe my 18" wheels create enough contact with the road, I donno, but it still exhibited too much understeer in the middle setting.

I really need camber plates now, turn in is horrendous and I can feel that a tad of negative camber would sove that issue.. Then, maybe I could soften that RSB.

Anyway, I like it. Gonna drive for a few days now and update with more insight.

 

Great write up. I am glad you took the time to put this much into the information you have provided us.

 

Keep in mind this is on the stock suspension of the S. The handling is completely neutral, at least it seems that way so far. Basically, so far I love it! What a major difference this made. The neutral handling is due in part to the stiffer chassis and hence more stable control, and the stiffer RSB.

I love how much more solid the whole thing feels now, I just RIP through high-speed corners now without the least bit of understeer. I'd say it is leaning towards oversteer, however, and I haven't had a chance to test stability in lift-throttle mid-turn situations. Time will tell. So far though, I'm really diggin it. I've never felt a front-driver rotate so willingly and naturally.

More to come.

 

Good stuff, thanks!

Paul

 

Today on the way to work I took the freeway offramp I love so much. It is a decreasing radius left hand sweeper.

In my BMW 330i, I can enter the turn at 85 and exit at 105. Needless to say I have plenty of experience on this offramp and know it like the back of my hand. The mini used to scare me here. Not this time.

I was afraid the rear would kick out when the radius shortened, but it did not. Those that say the stiff setting is too much for them on the street must have smaller tires, or something, because it just gripped and followed where I pointed it with no drama. Wow, is all I can say.

It just feels great.

 

Soccubus, very nice job on the write-up.

 

I should probably make a correction. Turn-in isn't exactly horrendous, it's really pretty good. I'm just greedy, and can feel the front tires slipping more than I'd like them. The camber will surely solve this issue and give me even higher cornering speeds. yaya!